Flyleds Strobe Controller Enclosure

This is an enclosure for the Flyleds.com Strobe Controller board (the current "blue" V4.0 board), which is included as part of the Flyleds "The Essentials" Position and Strobe Lighting Kit. This design was heavily inspired by one of the enclosures available for download on the Flyleds site. I liked the original design in general, but I wanted to change how the lid was attached, and to make the mounting tabs more substantial.

I used this project to learn the Onshape.com CAD system. Full disclosure: I designed this with the Google Gemini AI looking over my shoulder. Gemini helped me come up-to-speed quickly on using Onshape, and offered suggestions about my design (e.g. opposing corner attachment tabs for added stability when only using two attachment points).

Hardware Required

• 8mm M3 Cap Screws, DIN 912 (x4) (Amazon)

• Ruthex RX-M3x5x4 ("Voron") threaded inserts (x4) (Amazon)

• #6 screws for attaching the enclosure (x2)

Printing

In my opinion, the enclosure should be printed using a relatively strong, and heat tolerant material (ABS, ASA, etc.). However, it's your build, so do what you think is best. I elected to use Overture ASA:

• 15% Gyroid infill

• Paint-on supports (Prusa Slicer)

• For support enforcers only (Prusa Slicer)

• organic supports

• 10 mm brims (enclosure lid and bottom)

I used Overture Transparent PETG to print the the LED covers.

For supports on the lid, DIP switch cover, and LED covers, I used Prusa Slicer's "painted on" supports feature, with automatic painting. I used Organic ("tree") supports on the lid and DIP cover, and Snug on the LED covers.

I suggest that you ensure that the mounting tabs on the base, and the bottom of the screw "down-tubes" in the lid, are printed with 100% infill -- you don't want them to crush when you tighten down the screws.

(These settings are included in the 3MF file. If you use Prusa Slicer, open as a project.)

The DIP switch cover should be printed on its end (using supports), if you want the spring to survive. Similarly, the LED covers should be printed at an angle (45 degrees, or so), otherwise they'll break when you try to insert them. Of course, you don't need to use them if you don't want to, but I think they look pretty cool in use: 

Customizing

While designing this box, I tried out various lid attachment options (hex nuts, square nuts, direct attach), different mounting options (semi-circle vs. gussets, sides vs. corners), etc. What I posted here is the configuration I've decided to use for my build. However, you have the option to roll your own at

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/509d7eb3b0019e1ed6a7da1f/v/dc42bb9d1b21b34bc6d98451/e/94b5cb1dc2025584345d8988

Follow the link, select the options you want in the "Configurations" area in the upper left, then select the parts from the "Parts" list in the lower left, right-click, and "Export...". I prefer to export in 3MF format with Fine resolution, but you can select STL if you prefer. If you use STL, set the "Units" to "Millimeter."

Note that the direct connect option to attach the lid (i.e. screwing directly into plastic), requires at least a 10 mm screw. If you see a big "stop" sign across the model when you select the Direct fastener type, it means that you need to select a longer screw.

Also, the lid and bottom should be configured and exported as a pair, as they both change when you change fastener type or screw length options.

If you have an Onshape account, you should be able to save a copy of the document to your account and make changes to your heart's content!

Design and Assembly Notes

"Floating Sandwich" PCB Mount: The internal geometry is designed to "sandwich" the Flyleds PCB between the lower standoffs and the lid’s integrated screw tubes. Between the 4mm factory mounting holes on the PCB and the M3 screws, the design provides approximately 0.5mm of lateral clearance:

• Thermal Compliance: This clearance prevents the enclosure and the PCB from "fighting" each other during expansion/contraction, protecting delicate SMD solder joints from stress.

• Vibration Dampening: The friction-based sandwich mount, combined with the flexibility of the plastic enclosure, helps isolate the board from high-frequency airframe harmonics.

• Tip: For best results, avoid over-torqueing the case screws. A snug fit is all that's required to secure the board safely.

Threadlocker:  For added security, consider using a threadlocker (e.g. blue Loctite) when attaching the lid screws. Be sure that whatever you use is compatible with the material used to print the enclosure (for example, liquid Loctite may attack ABS when it out-gasses, or if it accidentally comes in contact with the plastic). A "stick" form of the threadlocker may be a safer alternative (Amazon), or pick something specifically designed to be used around plastics (Amazon).

If you decide to use standard, liquid, threadlocker, use only a tiny amount applied to the threaded inserts with a toothpick. Be careful not to let it contact the plastic enclosure!

Change Log