DeWalt 20V to 12V Multi Power Outlet with Light, USB, Magnetic Base, Tripod Mount

This started out as just a battery powered 12V car accessory outlet that evolved into this finished model. The main printed parts are the main case, handle, and base. Not knowing if extended use pulling several amps would heat up the regulator (rated for 10A) and soften the plastic I designed a TPU heat shield and bushings, The printed fuse holder used is another one of my models listed here.  https://www.printables.com/model/1554199-panel-mount-blade-fuse-holders-for-standard-atc-mi 

Parts used: Some I already had, some newly purchased.

• Dewalt battery base and regulator set (Amazon)

• Auto power outlet socket (Amazon)

• USB socket mount charger (Amazon)

• DC power jack 5.5 2.1mm or 5.5x2.5mm (your choice) (Amazon)

• Standard auto blade fuse 7.5A recommended

• 12V auto spotlight (Temu)  (check Amazon)

• Mini rocker switch for light (EBay in 2017)

• Neodymium 40lbs magnet with holes (Amazon)

• 1/4"-20 nut (for tripod stand)

• 16GA wire & 20GA wire

• (4) 4mm countersunk screws for magnets, (4) 4mm button head screws if not using magnets.

• (2) 4mm screws for regulator mount

• (2) 3mm screws for handle

• (2) 3mm screws and nuts for DeWalt battery connection

• (2) 3mm screws and nuts for fuse holder

Wire Assembly: It helps to prefab wired assemblies. Make sure wires are long enough to extend below the bottom of the case for easier wiring. The picture can be a good guide for wiring. I used 3 and 4mm (3/16 and 1/4) terminals for some of the connections. Soldering will work fine. I would suggest shrink wrap or terminal covers for safety. Wire only one side of the light switch. If soldering, be careful, too much heat can weaken the switch contacts. If using connectors put one on the positive wire of the light (it will go to the switch). 16GA wire on the car accessory, DC connector and fuse. 20GA for the light switch and USB. I tested light and it pulls about 1A. For the DC connector, insert plug and measure across to get the right pins. Center pin positive, plug case negative. Disregard or clip unused pin on the DC connector. Negative side will only be connected when a plug is inserted. Any loose terminal sleeves and uncovered connections I hot glued.

Parts Assembly: Handle screwed on first, then light installed. From the original kit I added a lock washer for tension for light movement. Use a shorter 6mm or 1/4" hex bolt to prevent excess length inside. Ridge on case keeps light in upright position. Push wires through hole and positive wire through light switch hole and connect it to switch, insert switch. Insert USB charger and tighten ring. Insert DC connector and tighten nut. Insert fuse holder and use two 3mm screws and nuts. (A little tricky). Put DeWalt connector on next. I made a little tool to hold the nut. Put nut in holder, insert holder in until it stops on lip and slide over to either side. The nut should align with the hole. It can also be used to hold the nut when tightening. Regulator next, If you choose to use the heat shield and bushings, insert the bushings in the regulator and thread the 4mm screws in the bushing (tight fit). Align shield over bushings, place on case and insert screws into plastic housing. Accessory connector is last. It is so long with straight terminal it reaches the other side. Best to use 90-degree terminals, cut straight terminals shorter or solder and wrap terminals. May want to hot glue connector to inside case. Connect all negative wires together, including regulator wire (5 wires).  Connect positive regulator wire to one side of the fuse holder. Connect the rest of the positive wires together (5 wires). Other side of fuse holder, USB, DC connector, light switch, accessory outlet. Insulate wires and stuff everything into case taking care not to break off the wire separators tabs on the regulator side of the case. Testing can be done at any time.

Base and Caveats: If you just want a flat base only, use four 4mm button head screws. If you don't want a tripod screw base print and don't bother setting the nut when printing. The nut can be set after the 5.8 or 6mm layer. If you miss the opportunity, clip off the top layers and glue very well in the hex hole. The magnets are very strong and will support vertically even with a 6A battery. If a heavier battery is used and the unit wants to tip over put a foot on the base edge to support. Any device you do not want to include print a cover for the hole. For the DC jack make a double end plug extension cord.

Dimensions: Light-Mount 6mm, Cord 4.7, DC connector-8mm. USB-29mm round with two flats sections at 27mm across. Accessory outlet-27mm. Light Switch-8.3mm x 13.2mm (found on Amazon KCD11  3Amp 250V)

Printing: Generic black PLA & Creality white PLA, Case 0.20 layer, 4 walls, 20% infill, no supports but you may choose to for the holes. Handle 0.20 layer, 3 walls, 25% infill, can print in any one of five positions, side strongest, straight up weakest - layer lines. Base 0.20 layer, 3 walls, 20% infill, support touching build plate for four recessed holes. Can work without supports but will need hole cleanout. 5.8 to 6.0mm stop for 1/4-20 nut. Nut I used measured 5.7mm thick.