FelSploof

This is a sploof. A sploof is a filtration device used to filter out the byproducts of vaping, ie the smoke and whatever else is in it. Vaping can leave a sticky residue all over everything the smoke settles on. The residue can be difficult to clean, and the last thing you want is it gumming up the insides of your GPU or electronics. If you want to vape inside the house, considerately and discreetly, This is the Way.

The Deets:

My config: 20mm + 1x dryer sheet, rolled and accordioned; 40mm + charcoal fabric, strip rolled; 20mm + dryer sheet accordion; CPAP cap + rolled charcoal fabric in the stem. Screw together all parts once, then unscrew them; this sets your threads. It's going to be hard to turn, use tool to turn it if you have to only for the first assembly. Then wrap all male threads 4-6 full revolutions with PTFE thread tape to get the best seal (my machine currently has a 0.1mm deviation on the Y axis, which is probably why I need so much thread tape. 2-4 revs may be enough for you, if you can't screw it together with 4-6 revs). Proceed with final assembly and do not disassemble it again until filter check or your thread tape may no longer hold pressure.  Cover up the CPAP stem with one palm tightly, blow into the tip, and if it holds pressure against you, you're good and it shouldn't leak.

Note: Not everyone knows the direction to wrap PTFE thread tape the first time. If you're having trouble, hold the roll so the tail of tape is coming out the bottom left. If holding the threaded part in your left hand threads-up, wrap the thread tape Clockwise around the part, alternating one of two fingers to hold down the tape as you do the initial wind. Be aware that repeatedly unscrewing the sections will ruin any seal the tape made initially, forcing you to remove all tape and reapply it. So do the PTFE tape last, and screw the parts together for final assembly. Don't unscrew them until you're ready to check your Dryer Sheet sections for replacement, about once a week depending on if you're vaping frequently or once in a while. Your filter media mileage may vary.

I'm vaping Cannabinoids for pain management and this works to filter out the gunk and any odor. So if it can filter that, you're good to go. Terp wax can be a beast to clan.

Alternatively, you could use the round 20mm section and roll your dryer sheets like the charcoal fabric instead of accordioning them like a HEPA filter. The accordion version works really well, if not a little annoying to implement, but worth it. Use one of the screens on either side of each section to retain your filter media. They are intended to be a snap fit and will be tight. To get the screens to print right, use Object specific settings for the Top/Bottom Screens (3ea) and set to 4 walls, 0 Top/Bott layers, Honeycomb Infill 20%. What looks like a solid coin will slice like a screen. Just make sure you don't do that for all of your models, only the screens. Standard print settings and supports should be fine for everything else, 4 walls overall (8 walls on the Drip Cap). Tolerances are 0.1mm to 0.2mm for FDM.

Charcoal Fabric from Amazon ~$15: https://a.co/d/0bKJGV30

What you see in the pictures is a functioning prototype. I have to reprint the Drip Cap, it leaks in the bevel around the stem. But electrical tape fixed that as a bandaid until I print another one with corrected settings. Be mindful of 3mf file shenanigans messing with your settings in Orca. Also, use my settings at your own risk. I use an after market CHT nozzle on my X1C.

As far as how long the filter media lasts, your mileage may vary, but I get 30+ days out of the charcoal in prior iterations (this is my third iteration before publishing), and I expect to get 1 wk+ out of the dryer sheet, but I'm not sure yet. The theory is, the cheap dryer sheet will catch moisture before it gets to the charcoal in the 40mm section, and the second dryer sheet stage is to mask whatever the main charcoal didn't cover before hitting the final charcoal stage in the stem. And making it modular makes it easy to assemble and maintenance. As for tolerances, the tighter fit, the better the seal, but it'll be almost impossible to initially thread the parts the first time without using a strap wrench. It gets easier after the threads are set. The PTFE tape makes it smooth instead of grabby on the turns.

Hopefully, somebody finds this useful. It works wonderfully for me. And worst case scenario for sealing it, use electrical tape. It's kinda jank, but works in a pinch until you can adjust settings and reprint. If you have an extractor fan with a CPAP hose, you can hook that up to this and it'll work like a charm. Hopefully all this stuff I said isn't obnoxious or overwhelming. Hope it helps you. Happy vaping, friend.