Muzi Works Base Uno/Duo Slim Enclosure

This is an update to the radio handset designed to house the Muzi Works Base Uno/Duo and Super IO boards along with their Base Battery and whip antenna. I retained the single-screw access through the back of the enclosure to the battery and PCB, and also added a version of the model to utilize the spare self-tapping screw from the board kits to close the enclosure without purchasing additional hardware. Face detailing was added, and adjustments were made to thin out the design to ~20mm when assembled.

To print, I used the following settings (adjust accordingly for your printer, material, etc. if necessary):
Build plate: Textured PEI
Material: PETG (Others that would work well are ASA, ABS, and PA12, depending on your application)
Layer height: 0.2mm
Number of Walls: 3
Solid Layers: 5 top, 5 bottom (1mm thick solid shell)
Infill: 15-25%, Triangle
Precise Z Height: Enabled
Ironing: All top surfaces. I use 20% extrusion for ironing with the other settings left alone, and set top surface density to 95: to provide some wiggle room for the ironing filament to settle into the top layer.
Supports: Tree supports for the Front plate only, 0.1mm Z offset, 4-5 interface layers with tight X/Y spacing. These are only really necessary in a couple areas (USB-C port, antenna breakout).
X/Y Hole compensation: 0.025mm
X/Y Contour compensation: 0.025mm
Fuzzy Skin: All walls; 0.2mm point distance; 0.05mm thickness

Print pieces with faces of the outer shell down on the build plate. Buttons are placed flare-down. The sleeve can be placed with the top (more open) end up for easy printing. There is an optional STEP file of the details on the front plate which can be used to produce a multi-material outline on the face if this is preferred over a recess.

After printing, for the base version you'll need to press the heat set threaded insert into place. I used an M2 insert and a 5mm-long M2 SHCS for this. There is also a version of the face plate which uses the last self-tapping screw from the board kits to assemble if you don't need the longevity of the insert and/or don't want to purchase additional hardware.

To assemble, first set the 6 face buttons into place in the front plate. These should have a good sliding fit, but not too much play. Then slide the board assembly into the enclosure, top end down and rocking it in, while prying the side wall out some to permit for the switch and USB-C connector to fit through. This should snap into place bottomed out in the top shell. Then use 5 of the screws that were included with the boards to secure them into place.

Next, the SMA connector hardware can be assembled onto the exterior. Do this before installing the battery to avoid killing the radio components. The toothed washer goes on first, followed by the nut. Again, make this snug, but do not over-tighten. Then press the sleeve into place around the mounting hardware, and screw on the antenna (this was designed to work well with the Muzi Works whip antenna; others may work, but it is not guaranteed for fit; the sleeve is optional, though, and just used to take some strain off of the SMA connector in the case of a side-load).

Following this, place the battery over the PCB with the wires at the top of the battery (when the front is face-down) to the battery connector. Make sure that the 2.4GHz antenna pigtail is passing to the side of the battery and not directly underneath it. Place the GPS antenna into the recess at the top of the case, with the pigtail looping to the right and in a U around to the connector on the board.

Finally, rock the back plate into the front plate, hooking the retention lip in at the bottom. You'll likely need to guide the battery inside of the lip as well as pull the GPS antenna against the top wall of the enclosure as you do this; the allen key that comes with the board kits actually works pretty well for this. If you want to save yourself the trouble, a spot of CA glue could retain the GPS antenna into location without needing to guide it. Do not glue the battery to the PCB. When the back plate is in place, insert the M5 bolt through the hole in the back plate into the threaded insert, or if using the self-tapping screw version the remaining screw can be used from the board kits.