Reaverbots Remastered - Horokko (Mega Man Legends)

As a side-project, made this higher-quality model of an enemy from one of my favorite retro games, Mega Man Legends. I always thought it would be fun to have something like this on my desk. Apparently, some other people agreed with that sentiment, so I decided to make it available here.

I'm quite new to 3D Printing, so I'm not sure what settings to recommend. However, I can say that I was able to print this with relatively few problems using my Sovol SV06 (0.4 mm nozzle), with the following settings:

Layer Height: .2 mm
Wall Thickness: 1.6 mm
Wall Line Count: 4
Infill: Lightning (15%)
Supports: Tree (50 degree overhang angle)

I also recommend quite a large scale for printing this - I'm not sure why, but these parts ended up very small when I imported them into Cura. Regardless, I recommend a minimum scale of 750%. If you want to paint it like a miniature, I might recommend going bigger, as many of the details may not be reachable with a brush at that size.

You will need to adhere the parts together, so make sure you have some super glue handy.

The sample photos included are at 1000% scale.

UPDATE

I've moved the original model into a new folder called "Prototype." I wasn't really happy with how it was printing, so I changed my approach.

Across the board, I've reduced the count on my Subdivision Surface modifier in Blender, so that should make the file size a bit better. I knocked it down as low as it would go without causing geometry to look broken in some way. I've also fixed some problems with intersecting geometry, which was causing problems when combined with other updates I've made.

Though, the scale is the same, and the print settings I tested with are the same. So, the settings above should work just fine for printing these. I also still recommend a minimum scale of 750%.

I've added a new MK-1 folder, which has a model inside that focuses on ease of printing. It only prints in 2 pieces. It should print with minimal support material. The legs are somewhat prone to printing errors, but you can't find a simpler print than this. You might also want to sand the edge where the base meets the top, but it still does look OK after being glued together.

In the new MK-2 folder, there's a model that's got more individual pieces, in order to maintain ease of printing, while also increasing ease of painting, in case anyone wanted to paint this like a miniature. There are a couple of options here. For starters, there's 2 variants of the head. There's one with the lens still connected to the head, but it was suggested to me to do a version with the lens separate, as this will make it easier to paint. So that version has also been included. This model is also compatible with the base in the MK-1 Folder, so if you don't feel like gluing all 4 feet to the base in the MK-2 version, you can print that instead.

Although, I will warn you, that the combined legs and base do tend to print with more print errors, and the legs do look a little better when printed separately.

I am working on more versions focused on greater ease of painting, and ease of assembly, with a pin and socket construction. However, this will take much longer to work on, as I'll have to do several test prints to make sure the tolerances are good. I also struggle with removing support material from flat surfaces, so this might take me some time to fully get right.

UPDATE 2

I created a base for this. I thought I would end up spending a lot more time tweaking the tolerances to make sure it fit. I thought for sure this would take a while, and it wouldn't be done before I finished the third version of this this model. But, it seems that it just worked as soon as I finished it, more or less. So, I've included it in the "Misc" folder.

Recommended Assembly Instructions (MK-2)

After having built this myself, this is my preferred way to build the MK-2 version. Feel free to use your own process, but this is the way that I think was easiest to go from parts to a fully-painted figure.

1. Bond the body segments together, and wait until fully cured

2. Sand all parts to desired smoothness, and perform any desired touching-up of the model.

3. Bond the legs onto the body.

4. Prime and paint all pieces as desired WITHOUT attaching the head.

5. (If using head with separate lens) assemble the head by bonding the eye into its socket.

6. Bond the head to the body.

7. Bond the entire build to the optional base if desired.

The reason I recommend doing it this way is that the body and legs are going to be very annoying to sand if you assemble it with the legs before sanding. I found painting with the legs attached to be quite easy. However, the armor's protrusions at the top will get in the way if you attempt to paint the model with the head attached.

Maybe that's a skill issue on my part, but I say "easier tends to be better" in situations like this.