Electric Loop Remix - Prusa MK3s

Update: Electric Trigger

Parts you need to buy on amazon:

Relay board, 5v power supply, wire, misc connectors, and male to female bread board jumpers. The other stuff you should have got with the orginal Loop electric.

I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RT3ZPS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PP8HXVD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

For the control side of the relays, Now wire the 5v power supply to your relay board. You will need to take a ground wire from the ground pin to the Octopi ground so you will also need a male to female bread board jumper. You also need bread board jumpers to go from pin 17 to relay 1 and pin 27 to relay 2.

For the main power side, take your motor controller and take a jumper wire and put it on common on relay 1. Take the other side of the wire and put it on common to the relay 2. Put relay 1 NO to FWD on the motor controller. Put relay 2 NO to REV on the motor controller. The wiring is done.

I've uploaded a PDF with the how to commands. You will need to SSH into your PI to do this. You will also need to go to the web interface and download GCODE System commands and Continuous Print. You will use the OCTO commands in GCODE system commands.

Next go to the Continuous Print in the wrench icon in octopi. Go to the page with the scripts. Delete all but the bed clearing. Download the text file I made labeled Bed Clearing. Take that file, open it and copy that gcode into the script in bed clearing overwriting what is in there. Save and close and your good to go.

To test, go to the terminal and use your OCTO commands. Yes they need to be Capital. If you copied mine, OCTO10 will drop the arm and 11 will raise. The print head needs to be all the way up and to the right or it will be hit.

Make sure to put the start Gcode in slicer just like the manual trigger. See pictures.

I'm attaching pictures for reference. Its a bit of mess in the pics as I haven't cleaned it all up after the prototyping. 

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Manual Trigger:

I loved the LOOP and then I found the electric version! I was going to make it so it could be triggered with the pi but decided to just remix the electric version to work with a non-mmu MK3s as I wanted to remove it and go with the infinity flow filament system. I made it also work with only 1 switch.

Download all of your electric loop parts and install. I opted to not put on the electronics covers and use a piece of card stock to use at the end of the ejector plate. Then print my 2 parts and put on. I made the actuator bracket to work so you can use a M3 screw, as long as you have a heat sert in the loop arm.

I've uploaded everything to do the same. You can pretty much use any top cover on you MK3 or MK4 if they are similar on extruder size where it pushes. I'm not sure, ( confirm in comments if it does).

To do the same as my setup, get octoprint loaded on a raspberry pi. Download continuous print app and install.

Download the text files I made. Delete your start G-code in prusa slicer and copy and paste my start Gcode in your prusa slicer. 

Take the end print GCODE file I made and copy and paste that into the octoprint Continuous print script.

I've included screenshots of everything just to make it easy for everyone.

Please note I'm not responsible for damage or issues. This may not work for everyone, if you have a smilar setup, this should work.

I'M WORKING ON MAKING A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE ELCTRONICS, I WILL UPLOADE AS SOON AS I CAN. Get the electronics from the ELEC-LOOP and then an 87a 12v relay, wire, and red and blue spade female crimp connectors. 

Video of operation with manual switch.