Louder-ESP32 speaker enclosure (larger)

This is a modified, larger version of @Manuelous's great parametric speaker box model to accommodate larger speakers. Additionally, there is an optional LED mount at the top of the box, as well as other minor adjustments to make for easier and more reliable threaded insert placement. I've made 4 of these so far, and they sound great. 

This is generally a reasonably forgiving print, but it is a fairly long print (by my standards), so do take care to make sure your printer is dialed in before proceeding. Below are my print settings, you may find you have better results with different settings (I'd honestly love to hear if you do!):

I've added a cutout for an 8bit LED panel, which is totally optional but can make for a fun status indicator (which is what I use it for). There's no cutout for a mic because I hate talking to inanimate objects, but you could certainly add one. 

(My) Print settings

• Filament: PLA+

• Print time:

  • ~15 hours for the enclosure

  • ~2 hours each for the front and back

  • First layer at %40 for QA purposes

• Wall loops: 5 (for extra rigidity)

• 15-20% sparse infill density

• Infill pattern: Adaptive cubic

• Supports: Enclosure and front need supports for the magnet holes and the LED cutout

BOM

None of the links below are affiliate links, and are included only for reference to exactly what I used. I urge you to purchase from any other retailer than Amazon if one is available to you, especially if you can source parts locally.

Hardware

• Louder-ESP32 board

• 14 x M3x16 screws

  • Can be shorter, maximum length is 16mm

• 5 x M2x4 screws

  • Can be shorter, maximum is 4mm

• 14x M3x6x4.2 threaded inserts

• 5x M2x2x3.2 threaded inserts

• 12x 10mm x 3mm disc magnets

  • 10mm x 2mm magnets may also work, but depending on how patient you are with applying the speaker fabric, 3mm is recommended for better hold

• 1x 5.5 x 2.1mm panel mount DC barrel jack

Speakers

• 1x Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" midbass woofer 4 Ohm

• 1x GRS 3FR-4 full range 3" speaker driver 4 Ohm

Optional hardware

• 1x 8-bit ws2812 LED panel

• 1x JST-XH Connector Kit, XH 2.54mm 3 Pin Header/cable (for the LED)

• 1x 4.8mm crimp connectors (for speaker wires)

• 3x 6.3mm crimp connectors (for power wires)

  • You could solder speaker wires directly to the speaker, but crimp connectors make it easier to disassemble and replace components in the future

• 4x 11mm diameter adhesive rubber feet

  • Can be smaller, sized for 11mm diameter

• Speaker fabric of your choice (this is what is pictured)

• Polyfill of your choice (what I used)

• 5mm x 3mm adhesive weather strip (or some other sealing gasket)

  • 4 meters was enough to do 4 of these speakers

Assembly

1. Place and sink threaded inserts in the enclosure (both back, front, and optionally inside for the LED). The inserts should basically snap into place upright, or have minimal wiggle at the base depending on how tuned in your printer is. Don't forget to set your iron temp to just above your filament's extrusion temp, or you'll get messy results. If you've never placed threaded inserts before, I'd highly recommend printing a slice of just the back to practice on first.

   1. Back of the enclosure takes 6x M3x6x4.2 threaded inserts

   2. Front of the enclosure takes 8x M3x6x4.2 threaded inserts

   3. Inside enclosure LED mount takes 2x M2x2x3.2 threaded inserts

1. Place and sink threaded inserts into the back cover

   1. The back cover requires 3x M2x2x3.2 threaded inserts for mounting the Louder-ESP32 board. The bottom right hole does not need an insert, as there is no mounting hole in the board in that position.

      

2. Optional: LED placement

   1. If you choose to use the LED (which I recommend, it's a nice touch for status indication), you'll first want to prepare the board and the LED panel. This is some quick soldering work, but I've included some reference pics here for that as well so as not to assume any knowledge. I had some JST-HX connectors on-hand, and I hate a Dupont connector, so I went with that on both. You should opt for whatever connector type you prefer (even if it's Dupont).

The LED retainer is screwed in after the LED placement with 2x M2x4 screws

1. Magnet installation

   1. Absolutely make certain the polarity is correct before you insert each magnet. The cutouts for the magnets are intentionally tight, and should hold the magnet in as a friction fit. You can use a dab of superglue if you like. Once they're inserted, it's going to be exceptionally hard to remove them without marring the enclosure.

   2. Both the front grille and enclosure need 6x 10mmx3mm magnets each (total of 12)

   3. Star with the enclosure, take your time and (once again) verify the polarity is correct on all of them. The grill takes way less time and filament to print, if you're going to mess this up, mess it up on the grill.

      

      

2. Gasket installation

   1. You just need to make a basic seal here against the speakers and rear cover. Depending on the gasket you bought, it might cover the screw holes a bit. That's fine, poke a hole through from behind so you can easily see the holes to line up the speakers. For the rear cover, I put the gasket around the raised portion that rings around the outside of the screw holes.

      

3. Mount the board, wifi antenna, and DC power connector

   1. It's probably not 100% necessary, but I opted to gasket these holes as well. They're a pretty exact fit for both, and if sufficiently tightened, should seal well enough on their own. I'm not a speaker box scientist, so I chose the safer route with gaskets. You can tuck the cables behind the board to keep things tidy.

      

4. Place and secure the speakers

   1. Place the speaker into the front of the enclosure, with the terminals facing the center. Screw the speakers into the enclosure using 8x M3x16 screws. Get all the screws started and try and take turns tightening them down in equal increments until they're tight.

      

5.  Connect speakers and LED to the board

   1. Connect the speakers and the LED to the board

      

6. Add Polyfill

   1. Not too dense, this may be a step you end up wanting to tweak a bit later, luckily that's easy to do.

      

7. Attach back cover

   1. Screw the back cover on, again getting the screws started and working your way around to tighten them up. As you go, make sure you don't have any little tufts of polyfill hanging out.

      

8. (Optional) Add rubber feet

   1. Just peel and stick. Almost done, you got this.

      

9. (Optional) Add fabric to grill

   1. I went through several iterations of trying to design some fancy retention ring for this part, but the best end result I got was with plain old patience and superglue. I use the gorilla glue gel stuff with the green cap. Throw some nitrile gloves on so you don't get superglue all over your fingers.

      

10. Power it up and tune the EQ while you wait for the glue to dry. Enjoy your new locally-hosted, fully FOSS multiroom speaker setup.

Software configuration

Louder-ESP32 has a plethora of various software options, so choose your own adventure.

You didn't ask, but I went the ESPHome/Sendspin route, along with Home Assistant & Music Assistant, and I've been really happy with it. So far it not only has the much sought-after "Wife-approved Seal of Satisfaction", but the even more elusive and highly-coveted "Kid Approved" award. The multiroom sync is tight... like, "you can't tell multiple speakers are playing until you're right up on one" tight. Now I can hear the K-Pop Demon Hunter soundtrack against my will for the millionth time regardless of where in the house I'm trying to hide. If you're interested in that route, here is the official config (and here's my version of that code with the LED lighting effects, etc added to the base config, along with a bunch of other ESPHome stuff you also didn't ask for).

Feel free to remix this to fit other speakers or make improvements, etc.