Ubiquiti UniFi U7-Pro Access Point stand

I took the excellent starting model and decided to make it a little more robust, and increase the stability of the base after my access point kept deciding to bungee jump off its shelf (the second time landing on my Core One and smashing the top cover!)

Required supplies

To use this you will need M4x10 bolts (5 of), M4 nuts (5 of) and M4 washers (10 of). Tools are a spanner (preferably 4mm socket) and ideally a deburring tool.

This model is best printed in ASA. You could possibly print in PLA, but this may not be durable. Under no circumstances use standard PETG - the heat of the access point makes it warp!

Printing

In an attempt to optimise further I've broken the model into multiple objects to give control over infill settings. The setup I recommend is as follows:

• Body-Solid, Stiffener-1, Stiffener-2 - print these with Rectilinear fill at 100%

• Body-60%-1, Body-60%-2 - Rectilinear and 60%

• Body-40%-1, Body-40%-2 - Rectilinear and 40%

• Everything else (don't set anything specifically per object)

The model was printed on it's back (the default orientation), using the Structural 0.2mm setting with the following changes:

• Layers and perimeters: 4 perimeters; 5 top (default) and 5 bottom layers

• Infill: 15% (default); Gyroid fill; Top fill - Rectilinear; Bottom fill - Octagram Spiral (optional, but gives a nice back design)

• Skirt and brim: Outer brim; 10mm; 0.1mm separation gap (default)

I used Prusament Galaxy Black ASA and it came out flawlessly. If you have a Core One (like I do) and decide to use Prusament ASA, then I've uploaded a "-PRINT" variant which should be ready to go!

Usual caveats with ASA printing apply. I used the Core One's smooth PEI bed with MagiGoo, and allow the bed to cool completely before trying to remove the model. As this has a brim, this will need a little trimming unfortunately, but with a deburring tool this is easily achieved in under 5 minutes.

Assembling

Put a washer on an M4 bolt. Offer up the Unifi mounting plate to the stand, and insert the bolt through one of the holes marked "A". Put on a washer and then loosely screw on a nut. I'd recommend starting at one of the lower holes and working clockwise or anti-clockwise. The holes are sized for M4 with a 50% tolerance to cope with material issues, so these will go in fine.

Once all the bolts/nuts are in, work around with a spanner - I'd recommend a socket one. These only have to be finger tight, so you shouldn't need an Allen key/wrench on the bolts.

Get the U7 itself and plug the network cable through the access hole in the stand and then into the U7. Finally mount the U7 onto the mounting plate and you're done!

Final thoughts

This is the first remix model I've tried and so some of the geometry might not be "polished" - if I'd uploaded my Fusion 360 file you'd be able to see that clearly! That said, I've tried to smooth/fillet where it made sense to do so - e.g. around the bolt holes and cable port.

Originally I had this at 6mm thick, which made it very rigid, but then you would have had to use 12mm M4 bolts, so I've thinned it down accordingly (which is why the model name is 'u7-5mm'). I might do a "version 2" in future with a bit more sculpted look and a more pronounced base. But that's for another day....