"World's Best CSS Developer" Trophy

Those brave souls who risk madness and worse to keep the web (mostly) organized and stylized. They deserve all of our thanks, but also perhaps just a bit of good-natured ribbing. Print this model and give the CSS guru in your life the recognition they deserve!

This model is printed in three main parts:

• trophy-cup (remixed with gratitude from Flowalistic's Trophy Cup Collection). Recommend printing upside-down, using supports everywhere (and, ideally, PrusaSlicer's ‘snug’ supports), at as small a layer height as you're willing to wait for. Use a metallic filament for best effect.
• trophy-base: The base of the trophy. This is a great candidate for trying out PrusaSlicer's variable layer height, as you'll want as fine detail as you can get near the bottom/top but the rest can be nice big layers, especially if you're willing to do a little sanding (and you should, this part will look best if printed in a woodfill PLA and sanded/given a bit of stain.
• trophy-pin: Used to join the cup to the base. There are holes for two, though honestly one is likely sufficient, depending on how tight you get the press fit.
• trophy-plaque-*: The plaque on the front of the trophy. This took a lot of experimenting to get right, and it's still a rather fiddly print. There's a single color variant (trophy-plaque-combined) included, but for full effect, you really want to use the MMU if you have it. If you've got one:
  • Add trophy-plaque-base as the ‘base’ model
  • Add trophy-plaque-letters and trophy-plaque-letter-support as parts to the trophy-plaque-base.
  • Use a metallic filament (likely the same as used for the cup) for trophy-plaque-base part
  • Use a black filament for trophy-plaque-letters
  • Use a transparent filament for trophy-plaque-support
  • Print at 0.15mm layer height
  • Make sure to turn on brim - with the extra time to cool during filament changes warping is highly likely otherwise.
  • Turn on ironing (topmost surface only)
  • Optional but highly recommended - use BVOH or a similar dissolvable filament for the supports. If one is not available, make sure to set PrusaSlicer to use the transparent filament as the support interface filament - getting every single little string of support off the trophy-plaque-support will be difficult and you don't want any strands of metallic filament ruining the illusion you get with the transparent filament.

Assembly:

• Remove all supports. This should be surprisingly easy for the cup, and unsurprisingly stressful for the plaque.
• (Optional) Sand and stain the base
• Use the pins to join the cup to the base. This should be press-fit-able but if you ended up resizing the pins you can also use some superglue to help hold everything together.
• Use superglue to attach the plaque to the base.
• Be careful transporting, the letters are quite fragile. Fortunately, the finished model is just about the perfect size to fit in a filament box, just put some paper towels around it and orient it with the left side down!