Flip-up VR head strap for Quest 2

Tired of having to constantly readjust the head strap on your VR headset? Frustrated with having to loosen your head strap and peek through the nose gap to see your computer monitor? Well here's your solution:

Many have asked and searched for a "welding mask" style of flip-up head strap for their VR headset since the introduction of consumer VR headsets 10 years ago, but despite this the market has not accommodated this request. This design securely snaps into place, also securing the headset up and out of the way when flipped up.

Features:

• Flip-up mechanism: One-handed design allows for quick access to the real world, locking securely into the up or down position. 

• Adjustable focal distance ratchet mechanism: allows you to fine-tune the distance of the headset from your face. Keeps your adjusted distance securely locked into place.

• Zero facial pressure design: Can be used with or without facial gasket. Removing the facial gasket allows you to move the headset closer to your eyes, unlocking higher FOV.

• Compatible with external battery: Play for longer with fewer interruptions

Parts list:

1x M4x10mm
2x M4x14mm
2x M4 washer
5x M4 nut
1x M4 threaded rod ~60mm length or a similar screw
1x Coil spring: 17mm OD 55mm length 1.5mm wire thickness

• Premade spring (so you don't need to DIY) Must be cut to length: https://a.co/d/03Y7Ckh5

  • 3D printed mandrel to create your own spring is included in the print files, you will need to use 1.5mm music/spring wire.

• KKCOBVR Q3 headstrap: https://a.co/d/0f8hXHNP

  • or, KKCOBVR Q3 PRO head strap: (with battery) https://a.co/d/01kAZ1hk

    • (OPTIONAL, but recommended for battery head strap) 6 inch right-angle USB-C cable: https://a.co/d/0avTkYI4

Filaments:

• PETG for the Ratchet on the plate labelled "PETG"

• PLA for everything else (note: PETG might be good for the headband for flexibility)

Print instructions:

• Everything is pre-oriented with supports and seams in the provided 3MF file: "OrcaSlicer ORIENTED full project"

• The "Knob" part on the "Embedded nut" plate and the main head strap part will need embedded M4 nuts. 1x for the adjustment knob, and 2x for the head strap

  • PAUSE commands should already be configured for these parts, Doesn't hurt to double check

Test fit parts:

• If any of the parts don't fit together nicely, use your slicer's hole/contour precision adjustment options. For OrcaSlicer, these are in the Quality tab, labelled "X-Y hole compensation" and "X-Y contour compensation". Rule of thumb is, if it doesn't fit, increase hole compensation and/or decrease contour compensation.

  • I would suggest using the "Ratchet" and "Adjustment Gear" as test parts for precision. If those fit together properly, the rest of the parts should fit together properly

• Ensure that the "Ratchet Body" and "Focal Rack" can slide together smoothly. They should not have any tightness or binding, but it shouldn't wobble excessively.

• Ensure that the "Detent Plate" slides smoothly in the "Hinge"

• Ensure that "Adjustment gear" fits inside "Ratchet" nicely. It should be a tight fit, but should still be removable. The ratchet should not have any permanent deformation inside the hex.

Assembly instructions:

1. Start by removing the front cushion from the KKCOBVR Q3 (or Pro) head strap

2. Remove the screws from the hinges, and fully remove the front half of the head strap

3. Secure the 3d printed head strap to the back half of the KKCOBVR Q3 using the two printed "Hinge Cap" parts, as well as 2x M4x14mm screws with 2x M4 washers.

   1. These screws will thread into the nuts that were embedded during printing

   2. It doesn't need to be super tight, just tight enough that there is resistance for the hinge

4. Secure the "Hinge" part to the head strap using hot glue

   1. Make sure to use some cardboard to protect your desk/workbench/table from the hot glue mess

   2. Hold the parts together, and inject the hot glue between the parts using the holes on the inner side of the head strap

   3. The pressure from the hot glue will try to separate the parts, this is expected, and a good thing.

   4. Once you have put in enough hot glue, squish the parts together to force extra glue towards the edges of the part. You don't need to see hot glue coming out of the sides, just do enough that you are confident it will hold. It will use a surprising amount of hot glue, as there are some empty channels for the hot glue to fill.

   5. (Optional) surround the perimeter of these two parts with hot glue for the best holding strength

   6. Clean up any excessive hot glue at the fill holes, and wait for it to cool.

   7. Once it has cooled, remove the black sticky velcro from the front headband of the KKCOBVR Q3, and transfer it to the newly printed headband.

5. Secure the "Focal Rack" part to your Quest 2 using the "Aligner" and hot glue.

   1. If you mess up the alignment here, wait a few hours, up to a day for the glue to cool and solidify (even after cooling, hot glue usually takes a day to fully solidify and harden) you can use a small amount of Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and a plastic spudger to remove this from your Quest 2. I have done this 3 times during testing, the hot glue removes cleanly and leaves no lasting damage or marks on your Quest 2. 

   2. The aligner fits around the Quest 2's top strap mount to help align and properly space this mount. Make sure you have it centered on your headset

   3. Again, inject hot glue into the two holes. When you inject the glue, the pressure will try to separate your parts, this is expected, just be sure that once you are done injecting the hot glue, that you press the parts together to minimize any gap. Some hot glue will come back out through the hole, this is expected.

      1. The Quest 2 is fairly light, so you shouldn't need too much hot glue for this, just make sure the glue has spread wide enough between the 2 parts

6. IMPORTANT: Wait for the hot glue to cool, and then wait 6-24 hours for the hot glue to solidify fully

   1. I suggest making a "puck" of hot glue on your cardboard workspace so that you can monitor how solid the hot glue has become. As mentioned previously, hot glue being cold doesn't mean it has solidified fully.

7. Assemble the focal adjustment mechanism

   1. Use "Ratchet Body", "Ratchet", "Adjustment gear", "Knob", and 1x M4x10mm screw (no washer)

   2. Pay attention to the orientation of the ratchet. The bottom-print surface should be facing up.

8. Connect the "Ratchet Body" to the head strap hinge

   1. Place the spring in the hole of the hinge, with the 2 detent plates on each side. Compress the detent plates to fit inside the ratchet body.

   2. Put the 60mm threaded rod through the ratchet body and hinge. Secure in place using 2 M4 nuts with washers. Make sure to tighten the nuts enough that the two sides of the "Ratchet body" don't flex outward. Don't tighten to the point that there is friction between the ratchet body and the hinge

9. Attach the Quest 2's focal rack to the ratchet body. Turn the knob on top to pull it into place

10. (Optional) if you have a KKCOBVR Q3 Pro, and would like to continue using the battery, secure the 6-inch USB-C extension cable in place on the hinge. Make sure to check the clearance before you hot glue it into place.

11. Attach the top strap, and the front cushion, and it should be good to go! Make sure the hot glue has fully solidified and hardened, which may take 6+ hours.

Future adaptations:

• The core of this mechanism should be adaptable to any VR headset, so long as you have a way to connect the headset to the "Focal Rack" part.

• Currently, you could customize the positioning and angle of the headset by adjusting the detent plates and the focal rack,