Buddy3D Camera Angle Mod for a Better View

The official Prusa Buddy3D Camera for the CORE One/+ is an awesome printer add-on that works great and integrates well into Prusa Connect, but the angle that it mounts onto the frame doesn't allow you to see a large part of the back-right corner of the layer currently being printed.  You'll never be able to see any problems with a print in that corner until it moves down quite a bit, either due to being a tall model or due to the print finishing.  It's a bit too late in either case.

This modification replaces the back lid of the Buddy3D Camera with one that has extra mounting tabs that allow it to be angled up quite a bit more.  The camera doesn't have a wide-enough field of view to see the entire bed, so I chose to cut off a little bit of the near corner.  To see a little more of the near corner you have to lose a lot more of the far corner.  And, with the INDX upgrade we will be losing 15mm of print area from the front of the bed anyway, so this seems like a reasonable compromise.

The stock camera has rectangular magnets at the bottom and along one side, to attach it to the printer frame.  After angling the camera up, neither are close enough to the printer walls to work reliably.  This mod therefore includes three pockets that hold additional 10mm-diameter round magnets for a secure grip.  There are versions of this model with pockets for magnets that are 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm thick.  The 3mm version should be plenty strong enough to grip the printer wall.  You can use these magnet thicknesses or stack thinner magnets in these (or any other) combinations:

• 9 - 10x1mm round magnets (in 3mm model)

• 6 - 10x1.5mm round magnets (in 3mm model)

• 6 - 10x2mm round magnets (in 4mm model)

• 6 - 10x2.5mm round magnets (in 5mm model)

• 3 - 10x3mm round magnets (in 3mm model) - Preferred

• 3 - 10x4mm round magnets (in 4mm model)

• 3 - 10x5mm round magnets (in 5mm model)

There may be a small camera-to-camera variability or differences in the squareness of the printer assembly.  I don't know, because I've only got a sample size of one.  Therefore, this model includes five versions with slightly-different camera angles.  You should start with the neutral version and adjust up or down if things are different for you, or if you just have a different preference for the camera angle.  There are versions that are shifted up from neutral by 1° and 2° and shifted down by 1° and 2°.

The INDX printer upgrade raises the print bed slightly so you might want to use a view that is shifted up.  Using the +2° version allows you to see the purge bin and the full nozzle wiper assembly.  There is good visibility around the tools and tool holders and the camera does not interfere with any movement.

Please let me know which angle works best for you, or if you would like to see any other options.  Here is what they look like, shown with a printed rectangle on the bed that spans the full printable area:

This mount should be compatible with the CORE One L printer, but I have no way to test if the angle is correct.  It's probably not.  If anyone wants to post the original view and this modified view for the L, we can back out the correct angle to add a version for that printer as well.

Installation

There are two M2x8 screws on the back of the camera.  Remove them and slide the cover down to disengage and remove it.  The pre-installed magnets in the camera body will be useless with this mod so you are free to remove them to avoid problems with them jumping out of their slots during reassembly with other nearby magnets.  If you keep them, you should make sure that the bottom round magnet is installed in an orientation that doesn't oppose the pre-installed rectangular ones.  They should not repel each other.  The other magnet orientations do not matter.

The magnet pockets here include a little springy printed bridge along the bottom so that it can firmly hold magnets with slight diameter variations.  This can work with diameters of 10mm +/- 0.3mm.  It's best to not insert the magnet into the pocket crooked or it will bind up and get stuck.  You can place it on the face next to the pocket and slide it over the hole to let it drop in, and then push it evenly.  There's an access hole on the back of each mount to push the magnet back out if you need to retrieve it.  An M3 screw can thread into the hole for additional force, but you should just be able to push it with a smaller hex wrench.

Once the magnets are in place, just slide the cover up into position and screw it back on.  It will attach squarely into the corner of the printer just like the original camera.

Printing

Filament choice matters.  The original Prusament PC-CF filament that the camera is printed in works beautifully, and is recommended due to its resistance to creep in the heated chamber.  If using this filament, no special print settings are needed.  The default Structural profile works great.  A 0.4mm nozzle is recommended because the magnet support bridges may not print well with a different diameter nozzle.  Different nozzle diameters are untested.

If using a different filament material, expect some minor problems.  The original model that this is based on has some pretty steep overhangs coming off the print bed.  I could print this model successfully in PLA, PETG, and PETG-CF, but the overhangs tended to curl up and get ugly.  The add-on mounting tab overhangs aren't as steep and all print fine.  Supports might be warranted for the steep overhangs with these materials to hold them down a bit, or play with your print settings to increase cooling or decrease temperatures.

Revision History