Minimalistic vertical ITX case (v2.0)

Check out the full YouTube video here:

THE INTRO:

Step up your (visual) game with this (somewhat) compact, but definitely unique and one-of-a-kind vertical ITX case designed specifically to not only look good, but also have a small footprint of only 220 x 220 millimeters, allowing you to utilize more of your desk surface. We all know that no matter the size, we still never have enough desk space! 

The design files include multiple different alternatives for the middle and top covers, as well as .step files to customize your own. (Bronze parts in shown photos)

THE STORY:

This "art project" originally started as an upgrade to my "Minimalistic PC case for onboard graphics" as many of you requested a version supporting a GPU. I was originally planning to make it round like the first version, however I quickly realized a round case is not space-efficient at all without requiring a riser cable. Due to mainly "square" components in a typical PC, I landed on a rounded off square shape instead.

THE FACTS:

What are the requirements to print this and what's the overall size?

• Print volume required: 220 x 220 x 235 mm

• Overall case size: 220 x 220 x 367 mm (415 mm with top extension)

The following components can be installed the into the case:

Most links (affiliate) will show actual components used in build shown. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All product links below are Amazon affiliate links.

• Mini ITX Motherboard and a suitable CPU

• 2-slot GPU up to 300mm

• CPU air cooler height up to 175mm tall

  • Noctua NH-D15S is not yet verified due to potential overhang past motherboard top

• Options for a 120mm AIO or one 3.5" HDD or two 2.5" SSDs (One of the three options)

  • See explaination further down in the step-by-step on how HDD / SSDs will affect maximum cooler height

• SFX power supply (including SFX-L)

• Two 120 mm / 140 mm case fans

The following parts/tools are required to build the case:

• 22 (26) M3 threaded inserts size M3 x 5.7 x OD4.6mm

• 22 (26) M3 x 10 mm screws

• 16 8x3mm Neodymium magnets

• A soldering iron

• 12mm power button

Optional parts to make the build even better:

• Super-glue for the magnets.

• Dual USB 3.0 20-pin adapter for motherboard header + M2 screws for mounting (4)
  

How much filament should I expect to use?

Estimated filament is rough and will vary from printer to printer. Estimated print times are based on typical PETG print speeds when using stock profiles on modern CoreXY printers. Times will vary from printer to printer. Expect longer print times if using an older machine.

Part names explained:

FIL 1 = main body color (the main visible parts of the exterior with the diagonal line pattern)
FIL 2 = secondary color (for parts that do not affect the overall aesthetic of the case noticeably)
Top cover / middle cover = your personal touch to the case, colored parts.

Filament groups, use and recommended filament type: 

Filaments used in build shown: ELEGOO PETG-CF (BLACK), ELEGOO RAPID PETG (BLACK).
The colored middle covers and top cover color panels were printed some in PETG and some in PLA. Most filaments work for these two.

THE PREPARATIONS:

Threaded insert guide:

All holes requiring a threaded insert will have a small triangle next to it, pointing towards the hole. Simply look for those small triangles, and follow the list below to see how many inserts each part requires.

Adding the magnets:

The large magnet holes are hard to miss. They are big, round and 3mm deep.

MAGNET POLARITY: Grab a stack of magnets and place a piece of tape on one side of the stack. Then push in place all four magnets from the non-taped side.

Then move the piece of tape to the opposite side of the stack, before pushing in the magnets on the opposing part. This should ensure correct polarity so the magnets attract to each other.

GLUE: Add a drop of super-glue if your magnets don't stay in place with friction alone. 

THE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS:

The written instructions and order of steps may deviate from the directions shown in the build video. The written steps are continiously optimized for the most efficient known method of assembly.

1. Start by preparing the parts with M3 threaded inserts and magnets by following the steps above.

   

2. Secure your ITX motherboard to the motherboard_slide_in_plate using four M3 screws.

   

3. Install all necessary components to your motherboard. This includes:
   - CPU
   - Air cooler or AIO pump
   - M.2 storage
   - 24-pin MOBO power and 8-pin CPU power (if modular PSU)
   - PWM-fan splitter cable for the chassis fan header. (Most ITX boards only have one CHA-fan header)

   

4. Attach the top_IO_panel_PCIe_mount to the top of the motherboard_slide_in_plate using two M3 screws.

   

5. Install the GPU onto the motherboard and secure it to the top_IO_panel_PCIe_mount with one M3 screw (with a washer if you have) or a M3 thumbscrew (optional).

   

   Here shown using a M3 thumb screw.

   

6. Mount the 120 or 140mm top exhaust fan to the top_IO_panel_PCIe_mount. The fans can be mounted on both sides of the top_IO_panel_PCIe_mount. Choose the "inside" placement if you're using air cooling, and choose "outside" placement if you're using a 120mm AIO for the CPU. Connect the 120 or 140mm fan to the splitter cable.

   

7. Slide the entire assembly into the track in the main_upper_body, make sure that all the power cables and the fan splitter are facing down out of the bottom of the main_upper_body.

   

8. Secure the top_IO_panel_PCIe_mount to the main_upper_body using four M3 screws. This will lock in place the whole motherboard assembly.

   

9. If adding rear-facing USB 3.0 ports, secure them to the main_body_middle_hub using self-tapping M2 screws (length 10-15mm).

   

   OPTIONAL: Add a M2 washer on each screw for an even more secure fit.

   

10. Mount the 120 or 140mm bottom intake fan to the main_body_middle_hub. Remember to plug the fan into the splitter cable. Also, if using USB-ports; Plug the 20-pin USB connector into the motherboard.

    

11. Attach the main_body_middle_hub using four M3 screws through the deep screwsholes in each of the four corners. Make sure all the power cables are fed through the opening in the part next to the fan.

    

12. Secure your 12mm power button to the main_body_base with the included nut.
    (Especially if using a large air cooler due to limited mainboard access)

    

    Power button location.

    

13. Plug in the power button cables to the motherboard header. Then secure the whole main_body_base to the main_body_middle_hub using four M3 screws.
    

14. Mount the SFX power supply to the main_body_base using four #6-32 screws (usually included with PSU). Plug in all power cables and cable-manage if necessary using zip-ties.

    

15. If you plan to use the base_intake_DUST_MESH "filter", add that to the base_air_intake by simply pushing it onto place until it clicks. To remove the dust mesh, use a flat screwdriver or similar to pry it out.

    

16. Drop in place the magnetic base_air_intake onto the main_body_base. Align the "BACK" text on the base with the rear of the PSU.

    

17. Grab the middle_cover of yoru choice and snap it in place around the middle section of the case. Press firmly in on each side. Use a flathead screwdriver or similar to pry out for future swapping.

    

18. If using a 120mm AIO for the CPU, attach it to the rear_panel_OPEN_for_120mm_FAN_or_AIO. The whole rear panel then secures to the main_upper_body using four M3 screws.

    

    If using a 3.5" drive or 2x 2.5" SSDs, use the rear_panel_CLOSED_for_SSD_HDD. Secure the suitable mounting bracket to your drives, then secure the mount it to the rear panel using four M3 screws.
    
    Each drive mount requires four M3 threaded inserts. You can only use one of the two options, either one 3.5" drive OR two 2.5" SSD's, not both together.

    

    

    Keep in mind that using 2.5" SSDs or a 3.5" HDD will affect the overall CPU cooler clearance. Using a 3.5" HDD limits the CPU cooler clearance to about 150 mm. Using one or two 2.5" SSDs will limit CPU cooler clearance to about 160 mm. SATA drives CAN NOT be used in combination with a 120mm AIO.

19. Drop in place the magnetic top cover of your choice. Becaue of the top exhaust holes in the rear panel, it's optional to add perforation to the top panel. Using a flat top panel requires you to use low-profile or 90-degree cables plugged into your IO or GPU. Not all common PC cables are compatible with this alternative. Consider adding the top_cover_extension_cap (picture below) for "full cable freedom".
    
    It is recommended to add perforation to the top panel for optimal thermal performance. See explaination in the printing overview table.

    

    Extra height for cable management:
    If you require extra height for cable management, the top_cover_extension_cap gives you about 40mm of extra cable clearance. Perforation is recommended on this part as well.
    
    This part is a direct replacement to the flat top covers using the exact same magnet mount.

    

20. The rear panel can be secured in place using four M3 screws to the back of the main_upper_body. Cables can easily be fed through the slot on the left side.

    

    Optionally, a zip-tie can be added to the rear of the main_body_middle_hub to keep all the cables centered and tidy.

    

    OPTIONAL HIDDEN CABLE PATH:
    For more "hidden" cable management, cables can be plugged into the top ports then fed through on the inside of the rear panel to then exit out through the hole in the bottom of the rear panel.

    

21. Enjoy new PC build!

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UPDATE LOG: (Any file updates like bugfixes, improvements or similar will be uploaded here)

Nothing to report yet.