Monome norns shield case x 3

Monome norns shield case

I have made three cases with different profiles for the monome norns shield. The models fits the Raspberry Pi 3B+ but they might/hopefully fit other versions too.

• Moog is angled 30 degrees and has an extrusion on the back to support the case.

• Wedge is also angled. However, it can tip back if the top key ( K1 ) is pressed down from the front rather than from above.

• Box is lying flat and is the most slim version.

The front panel fits all models and there is an optional graphics file as well. The graphics model is 0.2 mm tall and the characters are about two lines wide (when using a 0.4 mm nozzle).

3D printing

The Moog and the Wedge can be printed with the bottom facing the build plate without any support, but they can also be oriented like this on the build plate (I did it this way because I wanted stripes and print them in this angle):

Note: The Moog model needs a thin support along one edge and probably my custom made support model (I haven't tried to print the Moog without it myself so I can't tell if it's possible). The process for printing the Moog in this way is about the same as for the Box, which is described below.

The Box however needs support for almost all holes. If the Box is printed in a 45 degree angle it only requires my custom support model. Note that this support model is optimized for a 0.4 mm nozzle. Here is how I do it in OrcaSlicer:

Import both models at the same time.

Click "Yes" when prompted. This will group the models together but you will still be able to do individual settings for each model.

Reorient the group as illustrated.

Switch from "Global" to "Object" mode in the "Process" tab. Select the support model in the list and make sure it only has one wall loop. When the print is done you won't need a tool to separate the models and there will be no marks left on the case. The images above illustrates how the models are sliced with two wall loops versus one wall loop. One wall loop will only make the models touch each other, not fuse them together. You can set the infill to a very low value for the support - it doesn't need much.

Assembly

All cases have the same requirements. You will need:

• 2 x M2.5 16 mm long threaded spacers.

• 2 x M2.5 15 mm long threaded spacers.

• 2 x M2.5 15 mm long spacer screws.

• 4 x M2.5 screws that are at least 4mm long.

• 4 x M2.5 screws that are at least 6mm long (or use 8 of them and skip the 4 mm screws).

Before you begin - REMOVE THE SD CARD! You can damage the card reader if you don't. I learned this the hard way. The cases are very slim so there's not much room for maneuver. The holes for all connections on the cases are chamfered on the inside to make the assembly a tad easier, but you have to separate the norns PCB from the Raspberry Pi before you begin the assembly. Tip: Assemble and disassemble the cards a couple of times until they slide into each other smoothly.

1. Screw the two 15 mm spacer screws into the 16 mm threaded spacers in the two rear holes of the norns PCB. The 16 mm spacers must be on the underside.

   

2. Fasten the two 15 mm spacers with 4 mm screws into the front holes on the front panel.

   

3. Insert the Raspberry Pi into the case. This should be fairly easy. Just wiggle it gently until it's in place.

   

4. Now the hardest part. Insert the norns PCB so that the female header is aligned to the Raspberry Pi's pin header. Push the norns PCB down gently until it's fully inserted. Don't screw anything together yet.

   

   

5. Check that the norns works. Insert the SD card and connect the USB power plug. If the screen shows the initial sparks all is fine. If not you might have connected the headers in the wrong way. It is possible to accidently misalign the headers by one row. If that's the case then skip ahead to the disassembly section below.

   

6. Put the norns to sleep and remove the USB cable. Insert 6 mm screws in the holes on the underside at the back and tighten them.

   

7. Insert the front panel. Put 6 mm screws into the two remaining holes on the underside and tighten them.

   

   

8. Finally insert 4 mm screws into the two remaining holes on the front panel and tighten them.

   

Disassembly

Method 1

1. Take the SD card out!

2. Follow the assembly instructions backwards until it's time to remove the norns PCB.

3. Now, hold the Raspberry Pi in place with one hand. I put my thumb on the ethernet socket and my pointy finger on the HDMI port. Grab one of the spacers with the other hand and carefully pull it out a bit (a pair of pliers is highly recommended and will give you a better grip). Alternate between the spacers and pull the norns PCB out bit by bit until it's out. You could also pull the encoders but that can cause cracks in the solder joints. Take your time!

Method 2

I have used method 1 for every iteration of my designs and nothing has broken so far (except that I forgot to remove the SD card once). If you don't want to risk your norns shield, then use brute force and simply cut the case apart with cutting pliers.