QIDI Q2 riser - LEDs and Tools

This design was originally published in thingiverse

Update 19-01-2026: Added an alternative box design. Designed to be used in combination with

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7273534

I needed a riser for my QIDI Q2 printer and none of the available designs suited my needs. So I made this one.

First I reverse engineered the public design from QIDI website, to have a basis (proper CAD files) to work (at that time, I did not have the printer yet).

I also picked some ideas from other designs, like adding extra LEDs and Honeycomb wall accessories.

I do not have a filament box sitting on top of the printer, so I can easily open/remove the cover glass: So, no side vents.

My main design goals were:

Raise the lid by 80mm (later reduced to 50, due to long print times)

Increase (and spread) illumination on the print plate. If possible, also synchronize the additional illumination with the built-in LEDs.

Allow flexibility to organize frequently used tools and materials, on the printer sides. This flexibility should be able to cope with evolving need of different projects.

I made some improvements in the clip design as I read some comments that they were fragile. In my design, they are longer, a little thicker and sometimes challenging to remove it from the hole (without damaging it). I've also added a "lock" for these clips. These are meant to be press fitted on the clip to secure them. When used the clips can't be removed without breaking, the clip will work with one grip missing and is a convenient grip to rotate the clips.

There are two holes for clips on each side. One on the same position of the printer clip and the other, on the original riser position. You can choose the ones you want to use. I use all four positions.

Also, I've experienced some issues with warping when printing with ASA and ABS. The best way I found to address this was to include some support features in the part. These consist in many small conical shapes connecting overhang walls to the print bed. They are easily detachable and most separate when removing supports.

I left the vents on the front side but covered them with translucent PETG for aesthetic purposes. These translucent windows are built from two parts to improve clarity and to limit heat losses thru them.

For the illumination I selected an 8mm LED strip, 60 LED/meter, 12V. I've used 8 strips of 15cm (9 LEDs) each. For interconnecting the strips, I've used JST PH male/female connectors.

Each strip has a 2-pin JST-PH male on one side and the mating female on the opposite side. Use AWG 26 or 28 wires.

Exceptions are:

The first one where the input is from the power supply. In my case using Dupont connector

The last one only needs input power, no pass thru.

Power in done with a 2-pin Dupont connector. Total current is about 1A. Power cable from the first LED string can be routed on any of the back corners (left or right).

The idea is that the LED strips (including wires and connectors) are glued in position on each of the 4 base parts (2 strips per part). Feed the wires thru the routing cavities. Assemble the four base parts, connect the strings at each node, carefully push the wires into the cavities and cover with the respective cover parts. There are four different cover parts and two pieces of each one of them.

Check attached PDF for BoM list and explode view.

I also wanted a flexible modular interface to be able to connect additional features the riser. I chose to make it compatible with the Honeycomb wall pattern. I find it particular useful and flexible and there are many available designs to interface with it: Trays, doxes, hooks... you name it.

I added a step file for a fitting box seen in the pictures. Also provide STEP for all the parts, so that it is easier to make changes.

Finally, the automation.

I had some thoughts about about using the built-in power to switch a relay and turn on or off the additional LEDs. But I could not yet check at which voltage they operate. At least not without disassembling top top side of the printer... This will come at some point in the future.

As an alternative solution, I used a smart plug to controls the power on the external LEDs. Then I used HomeAssistant to control it (using a suitable integration) . Then used the moonraker integration to read the status of the printer built-in LEDs. This allowed me to design an automation to check transitions on the printer built-in LED status and act on the smart plug to make the external ones follow that status.

Took some tinkering but it works. It is quite slow to react (on the order of 30s) but good enough for now.

Printer: QIDI Q2

Material: Azurefilm ASA Silver

Infill: 25%

Supports: Yes

Bed temperature: 100°C

Chamber temperature: 55°C