Compact 8-in-1 filament hub

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Update 2026-08-03: Added a requested variant that uses ECAS04 (designed for metal ECAS04 adapters - the tolerances are slightly different for plastic ones so they might not work, let me know if you want one designed for those). There is no change to the model of the existing PC4-M6 version or the cap, but I have reuploaded those as STEP rather than STL files.

An 8-way filament adapter, designed as part of my multi-IFS project for the Flashforge AD5X after I got frustrated with trying to make the Anycubic adapter work.

Both parts should be printed oriented as in the STL files, with at least 3 walls, maybe even 4. The only material I can recommend for this is ABS; use anything else at your own risk. In particular, PLA's heat resistance is likely to become a problem (especially if your printer is enclosed), and PETG's low friction may cause issues with the tube clamp mechanism. You're welcome to try anyway if you want, of course.

For the main tube, manual supports should be used, note that supports should NOT be used in the intake holes (only for the clip holes and the surface around the tube entries). See the image illustrating where to paint the supports. The main tube should be printed with layer heights as small as you possibly can - I used 0.08mm.

No special settings other than the wall count are necessary for the cap, and it does not require any supports.

The PC4-M6 or ECAS04 connector is inserted at the outlet (1 tube) end of the main tube.

ECAS04: Remove the rubber part (but leave the small black plate between the metal and the rubber), and insert the normal way.

PC4-M6: This requires care when installing to avoid breaking the part. First, screw it in as far as you can by hand, taking care to keep it straight. Once you cannot screw it further by hand, unscrew it completely, clean off the threads, and screw it back in. Now, use a tool (pliers, wrench, spanner, whatever you like) to screw it in a little bit further. When the resistance starts to increase, completely unscrew it and clear the threads again. You may need to repeat this 3-4 times to get it all the way (or close to all the way - it doesn't need to be perfect).

I strongly recommend an internal chamfer on the tube being attached at the outlet. While it should work without one, it's safer with one. Make sure the tube is in all the way - there's a narrower segment at the end that the tube should push into, a bit more force may be required for this. If you're using this on an AD5X like I am (and probably just on any printer), it's worth doing an external chamfer on that end of the tube too. Some useful tools for chamfers:
- "Slignose" (my own model) for internal chamfer
- Pencil sharpener style tool (by Big E) for external chamfer

No chamfers are necessary (but you still can do an external one if you want) for the 8 intake tubes. Simply slide them in - insert them at about a 20 degree angle rather than straight down - make sure they're in all the way. Then, slide the cap over them, making sure the tabs line up with the recesses, and twist the cap clockwise (it's only a very slight turn, about 10 degrees maybe) to clamp them in place. This twist requires a lot of force - you may want to grab a towel to grip both pieces while doing it

IMPORTANT - The clamp mechanism of the cap relies on all eight tubes being present to function correctly. If you are intending to use this with less than eight tubes, you must insert short placeholder tubes into the unused slots.