XPS Foam Clean-Cutter
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Custom tool using standard utility knife blades to make square cuts to XPS foam sheets.
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Have you ever needed to cleanly cut sheets of XPS foam at 90-degree angles?
In the process of trying to break down XPS sheets for a modular model-railroad project, I found myself unable to make clean, square cuts without creating a mess. Handheld utility knives could never keep a cut square, and table-saws would tear the foam and leave difficult to collect waste.
Eventually I decided to create my own tool:
Uses standard utility knife blades (cheap, easy to obtain)
Keep the blade at a 90-degree angle to the material
Flat edge to allow use of a ruler or other straight-edge as a guide
Shallow draw with adjustable depth (making it easier to slice instead of tear)
Reference notches to show the blade edge/alignment
The tool I designed clamps a standard (Stanley 11-921) utility knife blade using screws/washers/wing-nuts. The blade can be raised and lowered by loosening and then tightening the wing-nuts. Printable without supports, using your material of choice. (I used standard PLA)
Assembly:
Pressure-fit a new blade into the carrier.
Slip the carrier into the notch, insert screws into the holes.
Add washers and wing-nuts to the screws on the opposite side.
How to Use:
Adjust the blade depth by loosening and tightening the wing nuts.
Place the rear surface of the cutter (in front of the blade edge) onto the foam.
Use the notches to align with marks and/or the side(s) to align with a reference edge.
Slowly draw the cutter, such that the blade contacts the material, keeping downward pressure during the entire cut.
Tips for cutting XPS Foam:
Use a new/dedicated utility knife blade. (Any nicks or other damage to the blade will cause the foam to tear.)
Mark your material and clamp or otherwise secure a long straight-edge. (I have successfully used a framing square to keep the cut at 90-degrees to a reference edge, and used a long metal ruler to keep the cutter aligned for longer pieces.)
Make your first cut with the blade set to 5-6mm, make a second pass at 10-12mm.
Once you’ve cut through 1/3 of the material, you can usually bend it away from the cut to snap the pieces apart. (This won’t leave a perfectly clean edge on the opposite side of the cut, but for my purposes, I only needed one side to be perfect.)