One Hand Electric Can Opener Modification

One Handed Electric Can Opener Modification

This attaches to the front of a Hamilton Beach 76606ZA can opener for one hand operation.

The frame replaces the chrome trim/front leg. It uses springs to hold the can up in

place while in operation. Mounts are also provided so the can opener will not move

around, but it can still be easily lifted out if desired.

The reason I used this can opener is because it cuts the lid along the side,

not leaving sharp edges on the lid.

Other Items Needed

Hamilton Beach 76606ZA can opener

2 pieces 8mm x 200mm hardened rod - can get from Amazon or Ebay

2 pieces LM8UU Extra Long Linear Bearing, 8mm bore x 15mm OD x 45mm long - can get from Amazon or Ebay

2 pieces Constant force springs - I used Powernail 09-445-29734 but these should work as well: McMaster-Carr 9293K115

2 pieces #8-32 x 3/8 pan head screws

2 pieces 1/4-20 x 1 hex head screws

4 pieces 1/4 ID x 3/8 OD x 3/8 long flanged sleeve bearings McMaster-Carr 6338K412

4 pieces 15mm External snap ring (optional)

Printing

I used a .4 nozzle with .3 layer height, 3 perimeters amd base layers, and 25% infill.

The mount block prints well upside down, all other parts will print fine the way they are.

The only weak spot is the lugs on the top for the rods. I put a coat of epoxy on the outside

in case the adhesion between layers wasn't strong enough.

Depending on the print quality, it may be neccesary to do a little post-printing clean up.

If neccesary use 8-32 and 1/4-20 taps to clean the screw holes.

The holes for the rods can be cleaned up with a letter O drill bit.

The holes for the bearings can be cleaned up with a 19/32 drill bit.

Installing

Remove the 4 screws from the back of the can opener, and take the front face off.

There are 2 tabs holding the chrome frame to the black face. Pry them loose and separate the 2 pieces.

The black face should fit the printed frame. Install the face with the new frame, and put the screws back in.

The springs screw on the sides with the 8-32 screws. The bearings go in the plate. Hold them in with snap rings or glue.

Install the rods through the frame and plate. A little glue will keep them from coming out.

The bushings go through the springs, one from each side. The flanges keep the spring from coming off.

Use the 1/4-20 bolts through the bushings to attach the springs to the plate. Tighten the bolts,

the bushings should not be able to spin.

Possible Improvements

A locking mechanism could be added to keep the plate down. I thought about using a saw blade as a ratchet for this purpose.

Authors

*Joe Rothrock -Initial work - akmjoe

License

This project is licensed under the Creative Commons License - see the License file for details

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

Prusa Clone

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

No

Resolution:

.3

Infill:

25%

Filament: Generic PLA

Black Post-Printing =============

Depending on the print quality, it may be neccesary to do a little post-printing clean up.rnIf neccesary use 8-32 and 1/4-20 taps to clean the screw holes. rnThe holes for the rods can be cleaned up with a letter O drill bit.rnThe holes for the bearings can be cleaned up with a 19/32 drill bit.rnrnThe only weak spot is the lugs on the top for the rods. I put a coat of epoxy on the outsidernin case the adhesion between layers wasn't strong enough.rn

Category: Kitchen & Dining