Strings Attached

I originally created these panels to try out String Art modeling inspired by the wonderful tutorial by 3DPrintBunny, but eventually realized that they are actually a pretty neat decoration item once they start piling up around your house... Use them in whatever way you like.

Note that, because they are technically test models, some of the panels have features built in that worked well for me but may or may not work the same for other printers/slicers. For example, the strings are quite thin for a string model, some are quite long, and some intersections are intentionally modeled to confuse the slicer. I would recommend to start with the little square ones and go from there. They are all easy to print, but not all of them are easy to straighten.

A note on the LED panel: consider it an experimental POC. It's simple, but it works and is a cute addition to the test suite. It gives you an idea of how much weight the strings can hold. I plan to replace with a proper model at some point, for now the lid will be loose for a calibrated print, for a beginners print you have a decent chance that it will fit. Use a craft knife to remove the support pins under the battery holder and some glue or tape to make the lid stick if too loose. You can buy the paper circuit lights and conductive tape in Arts & Crafts stores or on Amazon, find a Tutorial here if needed. It's sized for a CR2025 cell battery, add additional layers of tape to shim the slider. 

Here are some notes for printing and/or experimenting. Whichever route you go don't forget to have some fun with it. Enjoy!

• Note, I use Orca. For other slicers please adjust as needed.

• Models are built for a 0.2 line height and 0.42 line width. Do not scale. If you want to resize the panels you'll need to update the models, they are available here (Tinkercad). Use the tutorial by 3DPrintBunny for instruction on how to do this. 

• Use Arachne wall generator.

• Mind the overhang/bridge trap: Orca preview will show the strings as overhang but use either bridge or overhang configuration. Be aware, this can get confusing. As rule of thumb, if 'slow down for overhangs' is disabled it'll use bridge settings.

• Flow. If you use bridge configuration make sure to disable 'thick bridges'.

• Disable precise walls and turn off dimension modifiers (contour compensation & friends). They can confuse the slicer.

• If you are relying on jerk make sure it's dialed in with your speeds, if it's too snappy it can rip the string anchors.

• String strategies:

  • Go fast, rely on tension: The faster you go the less time to succumb to gravity, but be careful not to make the strings snap. Flow on the higher side. 

  • Go slow, rely on cooling: Fan(s) on the higher side, flow on the lower side. You want it to freeze in midair but without curling.

• Walls/Layers/Infill. Does not matter for the print, but it will for esthetics. For translucent material you may want to increase infill or change type for cool optical effects.

• Material: Easiest with plain PLA but works well for PLA+ and silks too. Would recommend to stay away from high speed filament.

• Do not touch the plate. The tiny hearts are extremely sensitive to it, if you start getting confetti you likely touched the plate. Don't do it.

• Do not use brims. It's impossible to remove from the hearts without breaking the strings. 

• Let the print cool completely. Try putting the plate into a freezer for a bit. If you have a bendable plate, use caution, too much bending might deform or rip the stings. Target one heart at a time.

• Glitch Art: If you are into that, try tweaking the settings to get the strings to intentionally sag or snap. Some of my coolest panels are technically speaking failed prints but they look amazing.

Modeling Tutorial: