Meshcore/tastic Tardis TreePeater for a 19003/4631 RakWireless boards

Description:

This is a 390 gram (with all components) Doctor Who Tardis Meshcore/Meshtastic TreePeater.  It requires the purchase of only a few parts and no tools. The print time on my Bambu P2S is about 9 hours at 124% speed with all 3 parts on the bed. I'll be adding a model later that allows for room behind the 4631 for sensors. For now you can get an extension if you'd like to do this. The instructions below seem like a lot, but I assure you this is can be done by a preschooler. The parts list also looks intimidating but a few you don't have to get.

Parts List:

Boost MeLike what you see? Want more adaptions of this that aren't based on the tardis? Want additional features for this build? Just give me a lil boost :D

• RAKwireless 4631

  • Amazon

  • Rokland

• Alpha AOA-915-5ACM

  • Amazon (Generic.. YMMV)

  • Rokland

• 2000mAh battery (CHANGE / CHECK THE POLARITY!!!!!!)

  • Amazon

• 4 * Solar Panels

  • Amazon * 10

• N-Female Antenna bulkhead mount

  • Amazon 2 * 8"

  • Amazon 1 * 6"

• Solar Wires

  • Amazon

• 28AWG Extension cable

  • Amazon

• Swivel Studs for holding the wire to the Tardis

  • Amazon

• Fishing Swivels IF you want it to spin freely

  • Amazon

• Lap sealant or some other waterproof glue. UV doesn't matter as it'll be behind the panels

  • Amazon

• Silicone tape if you want to 100% ensure your antenna is water tight. I don't use it on this project.

  • Amazon

• Quick connect press fitting for solar connections (Not Required)

  • Amazon

Print Settings:

I printed with a Bambu P2S on the 0.20mm High Quality but with custom supports set to what's shown in the photos. I've had great success with this carbon fiber ASA filament which is shown in the photo.

Building:

1. Program the radio with your preferred firmware
    

2. Mount the radio with three of the larger screws provided with your 4631 to secure the radio to the inner housing above the battery hold down.
    

3. Mount the battery below it on the square mount, MAKING SURE THE WIRE POLARITY IS RIGHT OR YOU'LL INSTANTLY FRY YOUR RADIO!
    

4. Push on the Tardis bottom and mount the antenna bulkhead connector. Don't be afraid to torque this thing down tight, ensuring the lock washer is on the exterior of the inner housing because there is a gasket on the inside. If you want to be extremely safe with moisture in your antenna, you can get the silicone tape listed above and wrap it around the metal part of the antenna, though I don't. At this point you'll want to torque around the antenna wire so it connects to the radio without popping off. I'd wear gloves also, as you don't want your hand oils on the antenna connection on both ends of the antenna bulkhead parts.
    

5. Mount the provided Bluetooth antenna to the inside of the interior housing somewhere so you can later update via Bluetooth when you lower the Tardis down to the ground. Make sure you're using the latest OTAFIX boot loader by double pressing the reset button on your radio while connected via USBC to a pc, and then dragging the file to the drive that pops up on your system. Once you've dragged the file, it will disconnect as it's rebooting and may say it failed to copy... it didn't. You can verify this by double pressing the reset button again, and when the drive appear, open the text file and ensure it says OTAFIX.
    

6. For the solar step, connect/solder the solar panels and then glue the panels in with the glue of your choice (or what I've listed above) then connect them in a parallel (+ to +, - to -) configuration to ensure the voltage stays at 5v/6v. You can do this with or without the quick connect fitting. I suggest you get extra 28awg wire for the connections so you can make 6-8" wires between panels. This will allow you to pull open the Tardis for easier maintenance due to the added length of the cables. You're want to leave the very last wire with the connector on it, to connect to the radio PCB. Once done, connect it all to the radios solar connector. Polarity should be fine if you got the same connectors listed above.
    

7.  Hold each solar panel up to a bright light and watch the radio for a red light. You'll want to make sure they're all working before you button things up.
    

8.  Connect the battery if you haven't yet, and squeeze all of the pieces together. It's a tight fit between the inner and outer housing, so you shouldn't have to worry about wires being pinched. Once you've got it together, place the top housing on the top and feed the stud through it and the inner housing. This top plus the stud is what holds the entire thing together. Tighten down the stud until the top won't wiggle.

    

9. Press the nut from the swivel studs into the inside roof of the inner housing. It won't fit and may even lean sideways, which is fine. Once it's in, put the stud screw through the top of the inner housing and tighten it down until the nut is pulled into the print as shown in the photos. You may need to put something in the hole of the stud end to spin it. Don't overdo it! If you want, this is the time to add the swivel if you want it to freely spin. It's not required though. Once you've done that, unscrew it and set the stud to the side for the final build.