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STALKER Compass artifact (with LEDs) — zdjęcie 1
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STALKER Compass artifact (with LEDs)

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An Artifact - Compass - from s.t.a.l.k.e.r. series. Model prepared for inserting BLE beacon and LED. Powered from 18650

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Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Props
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

This is my take on the Compass artifact, mainly known from S.T.A.L.K.E.R.: Clear Sky. I designed this with two goals in mind: making it look game-accurate and allowing it to actually glow on your desk.

The model is designed to be printed in parts to make painting and installing electronics much easier.

🛒 Components & Hardware

You can simply print and enjoy it, or put a little more work, make it light and enjoy it even more :)

Here is the list of parts I used for this build:

  • BLE beacon - Used to locate the artifact (Not needed unless you want to print detector too) - [LINK]

  • 5V LED strip -  I used green - [Link]

  • Charging unit TP4056 - [Link]

  • Switch Ss12F15G3-G7 (1P2T) - [Link]

  • Cables - feel free to use anything you have on hand. 

  • 18650 Battery - Find one locally (They usually are avalible for ~10USD in Vape shops). I used magnets to connect them, but there is enough space to use one of those baskets - [LINK]

  • M3x8 screws - although not exactly needed, I recommend using them to join insert parts together


🔧 Assembly: Standard Version (No Electronics)

If you just want a static prop for your shelf, follow these steps:

  1. Print parts: Kompass_bottom, Kompass_top and 26 Crystals (pick any from 4 attached)

  2. Join top and bottom together (note: thread is LH so you join it by turning the opposite way

  3. Screw in crystals - 9 from top and 9 from the bottom. Thread is normal (RH), be careful not to use too much force or thread may brake.

  4. Put crystals into place - 8 crystals in the middle are not screwed, but press-fitted inside. You may use some glue there.


💡 Assembly: LED / Glowing Version

I designed the internal cavity to house a basic lighting setup.

  1. Prep your parts: place everything within reach. Put 2 M3 heat pressed inserts into Insert_Top

  2. Connect your electronics: I used magnets to connect to the battery, but there is enough space to connect it to battery holder. Connect B+ to battery + and B- to battery - on the holder, or on corresponding wires as below.

  3. Connect your switch: From Output - connect a wire to one port of switch. From second port of switch connect the wire to two led's negative terminals (you will have to merge 3 wires into one connection). Then, merge 2 positive LED terminals with Output + on charging board

  4. Secure electronics in place: Screw charging board into the port using some self-tapping plastic screws, do the same with switch (or leave it as it is, it's a snug fit).

  5. Screw top and bottom together

  6. Stick your leds to the fixture, place battery inside and connect it (REMEMBER TO CONNECT POSITIVE TO POSITIVE + + AND NEGATIVE TO NEGATIVE --)

  7. Flick your switch, check if everything works correctly

  8. Take both halfs of your artifact and twist them together (remember - its left handed thread so you need to twist is counterclockwise to close it)

  9. Screw in all crystals, besides one on top (where the switch is). Use a toothpick to turn it on/off. Secure the hole with remaining cristal.

  10. Light Diffusion: To get a soft glow , I recommend stuffing a bit of cotton wool or specialized diffusion foam inside the crystals.


🖨 Recommended Print Settings

  • Material: PLA for the shell, Translucent PLA/PETG for the crystals.

  • Layer Height: 0.15mm or 0.2mm

  • Supports: Needed, use auto settings.

  • Outer lines: min 2 (0.4 line width)

  • Infill: 10-15% (Gyroid is best for stability).


Good luck, Stalker. Don't let the anomalies catch you.

If you like this model, please consider uploading a make! I’d love to see how your versions turned out.

Tagi