Vented Enclosure for HeyGears Reflex Resin Printer and Wash Station

This project builds upon Tyler's enclosure system to adapt to resin printing. It is a very large enclosure, 36"x36"x28" to accommodate the upward lifting cover of resin printers. The main purpose is to vent the toxic resin VOC's to the outside using an AC infinity 6" motorized vent and some Ali Express motorized dampers to also vent my paint booth; https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Ventilation/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=sr_1_4_sspa

I made multiple changes, the main ones being adding two extra pegs to each rod to improve stability and grooves for weatherstripping to seal the acrylic panels. Weather stripping was placed on the base to seal the bottom to the table top. Upper thinner support rods were created to support the top plexiglass panels. Translucent strips were made to give LED lighting a finished look. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DN13XRW7

This took several weeks of printing which consumed 11 rolls of black, transparent and teal PETG. PC was used for the internal pegs to add stiffness; https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0FG3JJH36/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_5?smid=A3MZ696ES2UN1L

I recommend you print on the Prusa XL using PLA supports for the PETG rods. This gives longer, superior rods with less seams. Avoid vertical printing as the rods will be weak given the orientation of the printed layer lines. Helper disks are required on long prints to reduce warping. (Files are supplied) You can print on a smaller printer with smaller parts and no multi-material printing but certain pieces will be more difficult to print.

The enclosure works surprisingly well. I have no resin fumes in my home. Normally I would iterate several times to debug, however given the time and cost of printing 11 rolls of filament and the purchase of 9 plexiglass panels, I have some suggestions to improve this model for the next maker:

1. Increase the size of the added pegs by 0.1mm to tighten the fit.

2. Add a central vertical support between the doors to better support the center which will sag a few mm making door closure more difficult. I had to build an 18" cantilever to support the top. Alternatively a rectangular steel support can be cut for the top and retrofitted with brass nuts and screws to stiffen the plastic.

3. The hinge system requires modification. Embedding the door magnets in the enclosure side rod in mid-print, is a mistake. The magnet is too far away and does not close strongly enough. I would forget about the magnet in the frame and screw a steel plate instead to the frame serving as a surface for the door to magnetize to.

4. The door closes centrally too tightly. I had to move one of the doors laterally to add some space between the doors. Using brass nuts for the door hinges is a must as they can be remelted and moved a bit to improve door fit. If I did this again I would make the acrylic door models 1mm smaller to improve fit. As it stands, my doors work very well as they are pulled shut by the vacuum of the vent fan!

5. I had to retrofit a back support to split the back acrylic panel into 2 pieces as it was too large to laser cut by my local shop. Check with your local laser cutter to see what their maximum cutting size is and plan accordingly.

I wanted to thank:

• Tyler Spurgeon for his original model: 

• Door hinges remixed from the Prusa enclosure: 

• 4" magnetic duct attachment system added to this model: 

• 6" magnetic duct attachment system added to this model:

Happy printing!

Stuart