EBB36 v1.x Orbiter 2.x DragonBurner mount

Introduction

This is my second remix of the excellent Orbiter mount made by @niefachowy since I like it so much. Since my earlier remix I have now started using a Dragonburner toolhead as well as the alternative mounts for them. Additionally, I have an Orbiter Sensor and Crossbow filament cutter installed, together with an adapter to make the cutter fit nicely on the Dragonburner. Using the original EBB36 mount, I noticed that the PCB starts tilting, the cable support could use a bit more length, and I wanted to make use of the back of the carriage mount to support the whole top (including the extruder) as well. So... some time in Onshape later...

Printing

Print using a heat-resistant filament since it will be both close to the extruder motor and the potentially very hot toolhead in general. I used ASA, ABS would also work. Filaments with CF or GF should be OK, since it's not very dependent on layer adhesion and the added stiffness might be good.

• 0.20mm layerheight,

• >3 walls

• >3 top and bottom layers

• 25% of any infill should be sufficient, not many parts of the print will actually have infill

• Should be printable as oriented in the STL files

BOM

• 5x M3x5x4 ('Voron style') head inserts

• 1x M3x10 FHCS

• 2x M3x10 BHCS

• 2x M3x8 SHCS or BHCS

• 2x M3x20 SHCS or BHCS 

Assembly

• Print parts.

• Insert heat inserts. All inserts should go in from the 'top' (ie: the side that wasn't on the bed), and only in the 'Mount' part. There are no inserts in the 'Plate' part.

• Swap the screws that hold the Orbiter's motor. Longer screws are needed because previously they needed to just go through the 'ears' of the motor (and optionally the sensor), but now they also need to hold on to the mount.

• As you screw these longer screws in, hold the mount firmly in place, so the mount is screwed tight as you go, and ends up sitting nice and snug to the sensor case. The screws should go through the ears on the 'base' of the mount.

• Place the plate on the back of the mount, with the sticky-out bits pointing away from the motor.

• Place the EBB36 on the plate.

• Screw the EBB36 and plate to the mount using the M3x10 screws. Bolts go through the ears that extend all the way to the plate, the plate itself, and the EBB36 of course.

• Check if the EBB36 rests on the tiny ridges at the top and bottom of the plate. These should keep the PCB fairly level.

• Once the toolhead is assembled, and mounted on the carriage, use the last M3x8 bolts to screw the plate to the carriage 'lugs'. This will support the whole top end assembly with the PCB and the Orbiter extruder, adding a little rigidity.

Notes

The design is assuming:

• Fits Orbiter 2.x. I do not have an 1.5 to check against, so no idea if that will work. Other extruders will likely not fit due to the difference in angle of the motor 'ears'.

• Depth of the mount is fitting when you use an Orbiter sensor (both versions should fit). If you do not have a sensor, the mount is likely too shallow. If there's sufficient interest I may add a non-sensor version.

• You may need to cut off the top edge of the connector for the Orbiter Sensor cable in the housing. It just intrudes a bit and is only there to force the proper orientation of the plug, so you don't actually lose any functionality. Don't remove it entirely, only about 1-2mm off the top is plenty.

• A Dragonburner + 'alternative mounts' setup as hotend.