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JTS Airstryke Carbine moderator — zdjęcie 1
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JTS Airstryke Carbine moderator

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A silencer made specifically for the PCP airgun JTS Airstryke Carbine. One piece print, no supports.

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5 / 5
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4
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27
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1
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204
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1

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Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

Disclaimer: Laws regarding airgun shrouds and moderators vary by country and/or local jurisdiction. Although it is legal in a lot of areas, make sure to check if it is legal before printing.                                                      This is not easily adaptable for any firearms and will blow up and not provide any sound reduction even on the first shot.

Details:

  • You need to take off the front sights in order to put it on.

  • Will probably work for the normal JTS airstryke variants but it has more power than the carbine so the baffles might not withstand the higher pressure

  • This model is designed to be a one part print. It prints with threads that work smoothly when paired with good print settings for your filament.

  • Requires a somewhat strong filament like ASA, ABS, PETG, or nylon. However, do not use CF- filaments as I have found that it makes it too brittle and instead of slightly flexing to absorb some energy, the internal baffle blows itself loose, even with PAHT-CF.

  • Designed for .22 but will probably work for the .177 and .25 cal variants.

Optimal print settings: 

  • 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height

  • Random seams (for distributing weakness in the thin tube under pressure)

  • Dialed in hole X-Y compensation and shrinkage compensation

  • Precise wall

  • 6 wall loops with alternate extra wall setting on

  • 40-60 percent gyroid infill

  • No supports

  • Print a little hot or slower than normal for maximum layer adhesion

Assembly Instructions

  1. Unscrew thread protectors. 

  2. Unscrew the second thin ring thing after the thread protectors. Mine came with no thread lock on it, so just hit it with a hammer and use clamps and a towel to get it loose. Take it completely off.

  3. The iron sights require small allen keys. There is one very tiny one that is a little under the fiber optic, that is horizontal. Unscrew it a little, and push the top portion off. This gives you access to the screw under it. Remove both screws and the front sight should be off. The barrel sleeve thing itself is not threaded, but has some threaded nut under it. if not removed it will shake in the gun and be very annoying. Take it out. 

  4. Get some PTFE tape and do about 3 loops around where the barrel sleeve ends. Then put another 3 loops around the hole closest to the end of the barrel. 

  5. Spin the moderator on until the resistance starts getting firm.

  6. Wrap electrical tape or something over the uncovered hole.

  7. Shoot it!

Model Dimensions:

Overall length: 9.10in

The suppressing stuff length: 6.50in

Widest width: 1.60in diameter

Hole for baffles: 0.340 inches. It sounds big but there was almost no noticeable sound difference between a hole 0.250in and 0.340in in diameter my testing.

Barrel sleeve: 1.9in deep, with no barrel sleeve it kept on snapping off because too much tension on the threads especially when bumped.

Barrel sleeve outer diameter: 1.160in

Barrel sleeve inner diameter: 0.960in

Threads: 1/2"-20 UNF class 2B

Also, if anyone was wondering why I didn't make it any larger and kept it at this size,  I have tested designs with larger internal volume but had surprisingly high diminishing returns on how quiet the boom gets.

Tagi