Bad Monday - 150g Antweight/Fairyweight horizontal spinner combat robot

Tired of facing the modern ground game? Uninterested in controlling your opponent or winning via the pit? Well, this is the bot for you!

This is not a machine for first time builders, for that I would recommend the SVRN project

Sporting a 38g 3mm Hardox blade, this bot is sure to be one of the hardest hitting in most competitions it enters. The main chassis is printed from 95A TPU allowing it to shrug off most hits, while the top plates and wheel hubs are printed from overture super PLA+.

This bot is fully legal within the 2026 AWS rules, weighing in at 148g and fitting in the 150mm square, but may need modification for rulesets that require a screwswitch or power LED - Always check the event rules

Photos in order:

1. Bad Monday next to its "Most Destructive" Trophy from AWS 77

2. Bad Monday mid competition

3. The Complete Bad Monday CAD

4. Bad Monday with its top plate off, showing how electronics should be laid out

5. Same as previous, with brushless ESC moved to show position of malenki nano

6. Showing weapon lock

7. Another showing how weapon lock prevents the full range of motion of weapon blade

Hardware / non printed components:

• 10 pcs M2x10mm countersunk screws

• 4 pcs M2x6 socket head screws used to secure the weapon motor to its plate, should come with weapon motor

• 4pcs M2x6 countersunk screws used to attach the weapon blade to the motor, also comes with weapon motor.

• Thread lock compound for all screws used on weapon motor

• 4 pcs 2x6.5mm self-tapping screws, I use these

• 2cps "Durahub" 30mm wheel - found here

• 1 pc hardox "Micro Monsoon" bar or other 100mm 30-40g bar, such as Team ULL bars - found here or here

Electronics:

• 2 pcs N10/N20 - I recommend 1000rpm for speed and bite, 600 for newer builders

• 1 pc Malenki nano

• 1 pc 20A brushless ESC

• 1pc Micro slide switch

• 1 pc 250Mah LiPo battery - found here

• BE1806 2300kv brushless motor - These are an expendable, so I would purchase at least one spare

All other electronics can be found sold from Bristol bot builders, or sold from a more local vendor for those outside the UK, such as Botbitz and Llamaforge in Australia, or TurnaBot in the USA

Wiring diagrams can be found near the bottom of this page

For Wiring, first add all components to frame as shown in photo, measure rough lengths of wire required, then remove from frame and solder together. From here, check all motors function properly, including weapon motor. This can be done by testing it bare and without anything attached, which is safe enough in the open air. In the testing of the weapon motor, you may experience the motor either never arming, or shutting down once a certain point on the throttle is exceeded. This can be solved by modifying the end points on the controller you are using.

Don't forget failsafes!

As this is not a beginner machine, I assume you already know how to solder, and are capable enough to troubleshoot problems such as inverted steering, however, any issues you are struggling should be left in this model's comments, I will try to respond to any problems. 

Assembly:

1. Bolt weapon blade to weapon motor, applying a small amount of thread lock or superglue to the screws beforehand

2. Bolt Weapon motor to dedicated plate

3. Bolt weapon motor plate to frame using M2x10 screws

4. Press fit wheels onto D shaft of drive motors.

5. Add all electronics but battery to frame, bolting down switch with self tapping screws.

6. Bolt on top plate using M2x10 screws, ensuring the two thicker sections are pointing downwards into the robot, these prevent the drive motors from moving around during combat

7. Flip robot over, then bolt both legs to frame using self tapping screws

8. Optional - use either hot glue or super glue to attach eyes for some added flair, ensuring they do not impede mobility

9. It's done! Time for some full testing - IN A TEST BOX OR PROPER ARENA - , just to get a feel for the drive and ensure functionality

10. Secret final step, if you don't have the longest nails, a screwdriver or small piece of plastic may be useful for turning the bot on and off.

11. Even more secret, even more final step, some events will require some form of signage or sticker to show which way is on and which way is off on your switch, but this can be achieved by super gluing a piece of paper to your top plate and writing that information on.

Print settings:

• TPU - 15% infill of choice - Cubic or similar recommended, 2 walls - Don't forget to dry your spools

• PLA+ - 40% infill of choice, 4 walls - Print a couple spares of anything made of these, they may break or wear over time

No supports needed for any parts

For the weapon lock, I use the fingertech clamp, but any general use clamp should work, just place it around the whole robot in such a way the blade cannot spin, as shown in the pictures

WARNING! - THIS IS A FULL COMBAT ROBOT, AND SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED OUTSIDE OF AN ARENA OR TEST BOX!