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NoTankS: Bigger insides, 3650 motor, FPV — zdjęcie 1

NoTankS: Bigger insides, 3650 motor, FPV

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This is a collection of my various NoTankS mods. All are compatible with the base model.

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Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
RC & Robotics
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

All the parts are compatible with the original model.

The only alteration to the side segment is the addition of mounting holes for a 3650 brushless motor. Two of the original mounting holes get reused, the other two are preserved - so this part is compatible with both 540 and 3650 motors. You'll need to print one mirrored. For a 540 motor (like the original) use 4 M3 10mm screws, with two next to each other on each side. For a 3650 motor also use M3 10mm screws, between 3 and 6, depending how tight you want it. For a new build I'd recommend this over the original one as it allows you to switch motor types without re-printing. Note that 540 motors can get very hot - either print that in something like PC-CF, or use brushless and colder 3650 motors.

For the lid you'll always need to print front and back lid, otherwise it'll no longer close properly. Unlike the original bigger lid this version allows more space for internal cable routing. There are holes for placing two 5mm LEDs on each lid segment. For the front segment you'll have to chose the variant you want:

- fully closed (like the original, just more space inside)

- two openings to glue ESC switches with hot glue

- vent openings. I'd recommend gluing in fly nets to keep debris out

- vent openings and ESC switch openings

For the LEDs stick standard 5mm LEDs into the holes, and add a bit of hot glue on top. Note that the vent locking works slightly different: it has a hole big enough to take the complete nut, so it is sufficient to screw a locking nut to the tip of the bolt, and push the bolts in from both sides after closing it. In my experience tolerances are tight enough that this keeps everything properly together, but allows way faster access to the insides.

The track segments should be printed solid. I'd recommend something like PC, other materials break more often. They get connected with 3mm filament (or 3mm trimmer rod) bits. I recommend putting a dab of hotglue over the end of each filament segment, otherwise they might work themselves free when driving.