VGA Port for "Dog" collars

This Adapter comes in three versions:

• Legacy

• Small

• Small_Printed_Port

The legacy version was my first working iteration. It has a printed VGA port and room for full length jack screws. It is larger than the other versions and not as comfy.

The small version is the one i personally recommend. It does not get in the way and looks best. It does require you to harvest a VGA port from somewhere.

The small version with a printed port is what it says on the tin. Its essentially the small version, but it has a printed port instead.

###Required Materials###

• 4x M3x14 countersunk machine screws (you might get away with anything between 10-15mm)
  

• 2x #4-40 UNC jack screws (you should be able to harvest these from any female D-Sub connector)
  

• 2x #4-40 UNC jack screws with the threads trimmed off. They don't have to be perfectly flush, as long as you are under 2mm you are fine (if you are making the legacy version you can skip the trimming since it has enough room).
  

• 2x M3*7*0.7 Shims (this is what i had on hand, use whatever shim fits over the thread of the jack screws. as long as they are no bigger than 7mm in diameter and 1mm in height they should fit. you can skip these but they make the design a lot stronger as they distribute the force better)
  

• Some strong glue

Additionally, the small version requires a port to be harvested from somewhere.

###Parts to print###

• Legacy Version

  • 2x Legacy_Anchor.stl

  • 1x Legacy_Backplate.stl

  • 1x Legacy_Core.stl
    

• Small Version

  • 2x Small_Anchor.stl

  • 1x Small_Backplate.stl

  • 1x Small_Core.stl
    

• Small version with printed port

  • 2x Small_Anchor.stl

  • 1x Small_Backplate.stl

  • 1x Small_Core_Printed_Port.stl

###Assembly Instructions###

1. Pause the print right before the hole for the shims gets covered. most slicers have an option to insert a pause at the beginning of a layer.
   

2. Insert the Jack Screws with the trimmed threads into the hexagonal holes. Depending on your printers accuracy, this might require some force. If they dont fit at all you can try heating them so they melt the plastic around them. if you do this be careful not to damage the rest of the print.
   

3. Insert the shims on top of the jack screws. Make sure they lay flat, otherwise your nozzle might get caught on them. You can add a tiny bit of superglue to make sure they stay put. Make sure none of the glue leaks into the threads. If you do not use glue you should turn your nozzle fan down or off so it doesn't blow the shim away. Resume the print and watch the next few layers carefully, maybe slow your printer down a bit.
   

4. If you are making the Small version with a harvested port, now is a good time to clean it up a bit. you only need the metal front plate and the plastic bit with the pin holes in it. everything else must go.
   

5. Once the print is finished, do your post processing and screw the Anchors to the backplate. Don't tighten the screws all the way, leave a tiny bit of play.
   

6. Apply your glue of choice to the inside of the anchors and slide them onto the core piece. make sure its not crooked. Press down on it a bit and let the glue harden.
   

7. If applicable, slide the harvested port into place
   

8. Gently and evenly screw in the remaining two jack screws. If they sit loose you can add some Threadlocker/Glue to the threads.
   

9. Make sure the glue is fully cured (you dont want any excess glue on your collar
   

10. Unscrew the backplate, put the anchors over your collar and screw the backplate back in
    

11. Attach VGA Cable as a leash
    

12. ???
    

13. Profit