Enclosure modification for Rook MK2 3D printer

Introduction:

Defects such as delamination, warping, "ribbing" on vertical surfaces, multiple internal stresses, poor first-layer adhesion, as well as interlayer adhesion (which directly affects the mechanical strength of the part) — all of this is the result of lacking a proper thermal chamber under aggressive external factors for 3D printing.

The task of enclosing the printer is to make the process more convenient and less costly in terms of failed prints, which saves not only your time but also your wallet.

As I understand it, the printer itself is currently in development, and for understandable reasons, such elements may be absent, but this does not negate the fact of their importance.

I should note right away that this modification itself may also have flaws, so I will be glad for your feedback in order to make it better.

About the modification:

Main list of required components:

1) Screws:

1. M3x10 screws, 20 pieces, are used to install the panels onto the "tophat."

2. M3x40 screws, 4 pieces, are used to install the "tophat" onto the 3D printer frame.

3. The "door" is installed in place of the front panel, with the number of screws for installation remaining unchanged.

2) M3x4 press-in (insert) nuts, 24 pieces.

3) A panel made of acrylic or Plexiglas, 3 or 4 mm thick. See the CAD files for exact dimensions; for cutting, it is recommended to take a sheet with the overall dimensions of an A4 sheet of paper.

4) A panel made of any thermal insulation material. Foam board is recommended as a cheap option. See the CAD files for exact dimensions as well.

5) Printed parts. To print some parts you will need a machine with a working area equal to or greater than 220x220 mm. 

Installation:

Regarding installation, I recommend following the CAD model.

An important point: installing the front panel onto the door uses an adhesive bond. Don't sniff the glue!

RAIN DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGIES