Prusa Core One Stand with Shelf - INDX ready

Convert your Prusa Core one into an elegant piece of furniture.

Main features

• Raises the printer off the floor

  • Gives back space

  • Easy access for usage and maintenance

• Looks really nice

• Ready for the INDX upgrade

• Adjustable feet

Required materials

• About 2.5kg of filament of your choice

  • I printed in Prusament PETG Galaxy Black to closely match the color of the printer

  • Note that the filled filaments have somewhat more friction, which might prevent easy insertion of some of the joining parts. Glitter-filled is still fine, but PETG-CF might have too much friction.

• 4x 25mm diameter wooden dowel rods

  • Check them for straightness and diameter before buying.

  • Most rods I saw were actually slightly undersize (24.6mm - 24.8mm), the model aims at these.

  • If you get bigger ones you might need to slightly sand them down to fit them into the leg holders.

• 20x 3x25mm (max 3x30mm) countersunk wood screws

• 11x M3x25 socket head screws

• 11x M3 nuts (hex or square)

• 4x M10x50 hex-head screw

• 4x M10 hex nuts

• Liquid glue (superglue) for joining the shelf

• (optional) Caulk/similar filler glue for the shelf joints. I've tested Den Braven MAMUT GLUE.

• (optional) Felt or rubber furniture feet (can be printed as part of the feet with multi-material printer). Sticky rubber will prevent the printer from sliding around.

Print instructions

These are recommendations, not hard requirements. Use your judgement. Do test-fits as you go.

• Structural profile

• 4+ perimeters for part strength

• Top/bottom layer count can be increased, but not strictly necessary

• "isotropic" infill (gyroid, cubic)

• 15% infill is enough, but you can go higher if desired

Print the following parts:

• Main stand

  • 4x Leg quarter

  • 4x Joining plate

  • 11x Thumb nut (optional but recommended)

• Feet

  • 4x Leg foot

  • 4x Ball joint ball

  • 4x Ball joint insert

  • 4x Ball joint foot

• Shelf

  • (you can select fancy top infill patterns, circular looks especially nice)

  • 4x Shelf corner

  • 4x Shelf side

  • 4x Shelf center

  • 4x Joining rod

  • 4x Joining ring

Assembly instructions

0. Before you start

I recommend printing and installing https://www.printables.com/model/1360259-prusa-core-one-alternative-z-splitter-mount as part of this upgrade. While the braces are supposed to clear the original rivets, you might as well change them for something removable.

1. Legs

1.1: Cut the dowel lengths to your desired length. Cutting the rods at 65cm puts the bottom of the printer at roughly 75cm above the floor. This is similar to the Prusa Signature Oak and makes the printer look like a piece of furniture.

1.2: Insert one M10 nut into each leg foot. They should be a friction fit, but you can glue them in if they're too loose.

1.3: Push the M10 screws head-first into the ball joint balls. There's a slot for it to stick into. The ball joint insert should go over the screw and be flush with the top of the ball. Again, friction fit, glue them if they're falling apart with their own weight.

1.4: Snap the ball joint feet onto the ball joint balls to finish the feet assembly.

1.5: (optional) Apply felt or rubber lining to the bottom of the feet.

2. Shelf and dry-fit of the corners

2.1: Dry-fit the shelf pieces together. This includes the joining rods and circles. You might find out you have significant hull lines on the parts, preventing them from getting in-plane with each other. A deburring tool helps remove these.

2.2: Prepare a plan for joining all the pieces together. I've done it by doing two halves (6 and 3 pieces), but doing it in 3 parts will also work.

2.3. Join the pieces together. The joining rods have a small depth marker on them. The joining rod is inserted deep enough if the mark is hidden inside the corner piece. Make sure you also use the joining circles, as they give the shelf strength in tension (to avoid relying only on glue). Take your time here, this is the most cosmetically sensitive step of the build.

2.4. Wait for the glue to cure before manipulating with the shelf.

2.5: Insert the joining plates into the corner pieces (the brace ones), one plate joins two corners. These need to be there, as they provide support for the screws in the middle.

2.2: Insert the wooden rods through the shelf and into the corner pieces, making sure they sit at the bottom. The top of the shelf should sit 350 mm from the top of the corners:

2.3: Mark the shelf position and fix it to the legs using countersunk screws from the bottom. Keep the corner pieces free to rotate for now. You can mark and pre-drill the hole for the screws as this is not well accessible later.

2.4: Align the corner pieces to form a square base in preparation for final assembly. Your stand should look roughly like this:

3. Final assembly

3.1: Flip the printer onto its side and put onto a soft surface to avoid any scratches.

3.2: Remove the printer's original rubber feet and any glue residue.

3.4: (Optional) Thumb nuts can be used to avoid scratching the surface of the printer by metal-on-metal contacts. They support both hex and square nuts. Install them either manually or using the screw-pull method as in the Prusa printer kits.

3.5: Start attaching the corners to the printer. The base doesn't have a specific front side, any orientation is fine. Put a screw into each of the holes and push it through the hole in the printer's frame. Join the two together with a nut.

(CRITICAL): Do NOT populate the screw hole on the front-left side of the printer (left of LCD). That is where the Z-splitter is, and a screw cannot fit there.

3.6: Align the corners again after they're all loosely attached to the printer. Try to get rid of any major gaps between the profiles.

3.7: Screw the corners down tightly to the printer.

3.8: Stand the printer upright, making sure you don't break the legs in the process.

3.9: Pre-drill and screw down the legs into the various parts using the countersink screws. 3x in the corner piece, 1x in the adjustable foot. Shelf was already screwed down.

3.10: Adjust the feet by rotating the ball.

Accessory compatibility

The stand should keep compatibility with most accessories for the Core One. Anything attached to the sides/top is fine (e.g. CoreBoxx, side bins).

You can also attach various accessories to the stand itself. One good idea might be to add the print sheet holders to the bottom of the shelf for quick access.

Various notes on shaking and print quality

The stand itself acts as somewhat of a damper (kinda like the squash rubber feet), it's not invincible. I've tried printing the Bonkers benchy without stealth mode and while the printer hasn't shaked itself apart, it's a bit too much for my liking.

Because the printer is in my office I always print with the stealth mode enabled anyway. The stealth mode reduces the vibrations a lot, and the printer doesn't shake much more on the stand than on other similar tables. Structural profile cuts down on the vibrations a lot more anyway, effectively reducing the need to worr

Print quality should not be impacted as the print bed is still in the same inertial reference (the printer itself). I've tried re-tuning the input shaper and I actually got higher frequency results (46 Hz -> 60 Hz). Test prints don't look worse or better either, so I don't think there is any significant print quality decrease because of this.

Disclosure

Inspired by the Prusa Signature Oak and Proper Printing's "Prusa Cursed One" . Because the design files have been "coming soon" for almost two months now, I decided to design and print my own take at the printer stand.