Power Rangers Ninja Storm Hawk Blaster

Print Settings

• Wall loops: 2

• Layer Height: 0.2mm

• Infill: 3%

  • Can go up to 5% if you want though be mind full of the weight

• Sparse infill pattern: Grid

• Support: Any

Printing Instructions

Printing is very straight forward. Arrange the pieces however you like. There are a few pieces that need to be duplicated. Some also need to be flipped so I'll make a table for that. The nozzle and back you use depends on if you want to be able to connect it to the other parts of the Storm Striker. The nozzle with the hole an the removable cap will be needed for that. 

• logo

  • Print 2

• fan_center 

  • Print 2

• fan_blades

  • Duplicate once and flip one across the Y-axis

• fan_bar

  • Print 2

• switch

  • Duplicate once and flip one across the Y-axis

• handle_fan_pin

  • Print 3

• body_pin

  • Print 4

• fan_pin

  • Print 8, although you really only need 1 or 2 for each side to get the blades lined up

IMPORTANT: When forming the Storm Striker, make sure to support all the pieces as best as you can. Depending on how you print them, as well as your finishing process, there will be a bit of weight on the connection points. It's 3D printed at the end of the day so be mindful of that.

IMPORTANT 2: The current iteration of the back arms are not supported. They also have to be printed in the worst orientation for the potential forces that may be placed on them. Because of this, they are a weak point in the current design. I will work to make a supported version, but that will take a little bit of redesigning and ordering of parts for testing. I want to get the models out now so that I can move on to the next one.  I will update/remove this message once the supported version is available. For now, to combat it, print with more walls and use gyroidroid infill. Though that will add a little more weight to the back end of the blaster.

Assembly

All links are non-affiliate

Parts list

• 2 or 3 M3x10 screws

  • These are used to secure the barrel in place. The ides is to allow for a single screw at a time. You’ll want to alternate sides with the screws.

  • You could also use much shorter screws to have two in each screw hole.

  • If you want to be able to make the Storm Striker then I recommend using the screws. You can glue it, but that barrel will need to bear the weight of the Sonic Fin if you're not bracing it.

• 4 20x5x2 mm Strong neodymium magnets

  • This is for the cover

• 5/16 wooden dowel or carbon fiber rod cut to 10 inches (254 mm)

  • This is for connecting to the Sonic Fin

  • If you're using the wooden dowel, always bevel the ends and sand it. Wooden dowels aren't consistent all the way around and can get stuck. FDM prints also expand a little dimensionally so they fit may end up tighter than expected.

  • If the connection doesn't feel snug enough then pad the dowel with a little bit of painters tape

  • Carbon fiber rods may not be con safe, so keep that in mind

The barrel needs to be attached to the handle body before you can put the main hawk body over top of it.

When placing the fan, make sure you looking at an example. The angle of the blades will be different depending on the side it's placed on. By default, imagine you're aiming down the sights of the blaster. The blades are modeled for the left side. There are some very small pegs for the blades as well. If you choose to use them, you really only need two on the diagonal. They're just there to help line up the blades to make sure the bar will properly fit in place. 

For painting I included a stencil for marking the white ring around the pommel of the handle. Unlike the Sonic Fin, that area isn't raised. It's not the best stencil, but it might help. I masked off the area, lined up the stencil, then traced around the circle to cutout the section to paint. The center bar isn't meant to be strong, so you can push down on it to help keep it snug in place as you trace around the inside.

I'm also using double sided foam tape for securing the body to the handle, just to make it removable for transportation. You're free to fully glue it up of you want though.

Length (beak to end of fan arm): ~20 inches (~508 mm)

Height: ~12 inches (~304 mm)

The full model is also included for scaling, or slicing up yourself, as well