Gaggia Classic - Gaggimate Switch Panel Mount

Gaggia Classic - Gaggimate Switch Panel Mount.

Designed for Waveshare 2.1inch esp32 screen.

I wanted a more OEM looking mount for my Classic, and my switch block was failing anyway so I figured why not remove/replace it.
All you really need to do is bridge the left over power and steam wires on the back of the switch, although one of the power switch wires is a live for the power on light, so know which wires you are dealing with and bridging before you tackle this.

The main panel is set as low as you can go without being able to see the switch cutout, and I messed around with a few versions before settling on this one.  After not having much luck in the past with 3D printing clips, I came up with the idea to use slide in place locking bars, and the result is really secure.
I tweaked the bars so the lid rests on them, and then also did a version that uses 5mm x 1.5mm magnets, and liked how it helps hold the lid down to stop it rattling.

When I started trying to fine tune my panel design with the Waveshare screen mount I ran into several issues...
The mounting holes seemed crooked for my screen, so I had to adjust those, and then I also realized my screen was not sitting dead center, so much so the original version slightly damaged the edge of my screen.
To fix this I blanked and moved the screw holes, and then I also sunk a negative volume to center the screen.  At this point I also did not like how there was limited protection of the lip of the screen, so came up with a few versions where this is more and/or a thicker lip.

I've uploaded all the versions of the screen mount I did, the "original" is just cut out and I also sliced off like this weird 1/4 line top layer that prints on the original.
My suggestion is the Thin Lip version, cause I think it still looks good and just protects the edge more, but you can do whatever and choose whichever you think looks good.

I can't do proper 3D design (I've tried, it's beyond my skill set), all these files are huge cut and shunt stuff that has extra parts and negative volumes created in slicing software, and because I'm mixing boxes and circles it's difficult to merge them.
They should come up as a bunch of shapes when you open the files, and when sliced they should come out fine, and if anything does not line up properly you have the ability to fine tune to suit yourself.

My settings are usually like 0.4mm nozzle, PETG, 3 walls 5 top and 4 bottom layers with 15% infill.
I did do 4 walls on the final versions of the Waveshare though, and I printed the panel solid when I did my final versions.