PS-250 ( BC-250 Case)

I will do my best to provide a better build guide in the future, but I have a toddler, a baby, and like 3 jobs so here's what I have so far. This is already an advanced build and made more so by my inability to accurately describe every process of it. If you are stuck on anything or want to cuss me out, email me at [email protected], I welcome either.

There is some supplemental information in my build blog on the BC-250 discord:
Invite Link:

https://discord.gg/8eZfFWhczz

look for PS-250 Build-Blog in project threads


If you don't know the history of the BC-250, go check it out. It's really cool.

This is a case I designed to fit the needs of my BC-250. I wanted it to be:

1) Easily portable
2) Hold everything together well
3) Semi-rugged
4) Remote start from couch with controller and be as close to "steam machine" as I can
5) Look more interesting than all of the boxes out there currently

I believe I have achieved all of the goals I set out to.

For the chassis, fans, and chassis runner, I used mostly M4x35 socket head screws with washers and nuts.

For the chassis runner there are 4 screw holes on top and 4 on bottom, these are M3x10(?) screws with nuts. though 2 of my screws couldn't really go in because of the m4x35 screws sticking out too far so you could probably just shorten those screws up and install all 8. I'm just going from memory right now.

For the top led light I had originally wanted to do the light under the runner, but my print messed up so I reworked it for my build and it's basically the final version right now. There is an insert piece that goes into the large long slot on top. You need 150mm of neopixel to route through the long slot, then through the insert piece, and stuck on it. Then the light cover goes on, and it is secured from below with 2.5mm socket head screws probably 2.5x6-8 something like that. Honestly might just be easier to make a better design for this as I have run out of time to go back and do it currently. The top light housing/diffuser is printed with black and a transparent petg on smooth plate upside down for a clean look.

The logo light at the bottom front is my company logo but you can edit it to be whatever you want. I originally planned on it being screwed in from the back but it was a very tight friction fit so left it there. There is also a little holder for the led that would screw in behind it but I didn't use it as that part failed, I just used hot glue :)

The momentary switch at the top is a 19mm 12v halo led switch from Amazon.

The neopixel animation is baked into the relay board code on the github below:

https://github.com/leafyjerk/PS-250-Remote-Power-Controller

Speaking of which, I used a 2 relay esp32 board from amazon for this part. It's wired up the same way as Petter's below:

https://github.com/PetteriLah/BC-250-PC-Remote-Control

The only real difference is that mine has neopixel functionality and inverted logic because I'm an idiot.

The side panels are assembled in this order, Panel 1 on machine, panel 2 on machine, m4x10 through bottom middle to secure both panels to the side, then the rest of the m4's all around the siding. Once siding is secured the trim goes on with m3x12 screws and m3x16 to secure the top trim/handle. The handle itself is secured using m3x6 I believe.

There are 4 holes on side of chassis that hold the print that holds the esp32 relay board, M4 screws
The PSU for this build is an FSP500-30as

There are two printable stops for the BC-250 and the PSU as they slide in, the stops are just screw/nut through chassis and into the printable blocks. One at the front on side for the BC-250 and one through middle into PSU slot for the PSU.

I am backtracking to mention that all screws require a heat set threaded insert except for the chassis runner screws (4 top and 4 bottom) the m4x35 for fans/chassis/runner securing the halves together, and the top led housing.

That's about all I can remember for now.