OFFICIAL INDX SV08 OG & SV08 MAX INTEGRATION

By appointment from Bondtech!

Bondtech supplied an INDX unit for testing & systems implementation.

Welcome! Im glad you found us here! So you want to add INDX to your Sovol printer. This is definitely the right place for that! These models represent endless hours of designing ideas & testing over a full month with crazy late nights, long weekends, bottomless cups of coffee & missed everything time!

They are all shared here just for you! For Free!! No paywalling! 

You can help keep things this way...

MODELS UPDATES SECTION!! - IMPORTANT READ!!!
2nd Aug 2026 - SV08 MAX Bed Spacers updated to v2.0 due to short Z rails on printer! All MAX users must use v2.0 spacers so not to bottom out the Z axis. Extra bolts now required - see BOM
28th July 2026 - SV08 INDX LINK COVER v1.2.1 published, suitable for production boards to align new USB position. If you printed SV08 INDX LINK COVER v1.1 & it doesn't fit please try v1.2.1!
27th July 2026 - INDX LINK Case update - Published version SV08 INDX LINK Mount v1.3 suitable for most production run boards. If you printed SV08 INDX LINK Mount v1.2 & it doesn't fit please try v1.3!
27th July 2026 - Be sure to use the .zip shim pack in the other files section to fine tune your 1515 height with simple & accurate shims - IF IT IS REQUIRED.

Have your say...

If you have an issue or want to request an update to a file, post a comment, or join the Demon Discord & I can try to help you out. Please don't just leave low stars or a bad review for simple things or just because you didn't talk it through with me first. I'm always happy to help out!

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Server Invite Here!  Come Join us!!

DEMON KLIPPER ESSENTIALS UNIFIED

INDX SUPPORT!  COMING SOON!

Need some macros?? We got you covered This comprehensive ecosystem will soon support INDX!

Open a whole new world & super charge your printer! NO AI code! All human written & tested!

https://github.com/3DPrintDemon/Demon_Klipper_Essentials_Unified

INTRO

I wanted these files to be as simple as possible, as reliable & solid as possible. Strong enough to take some punishment but not so heavy & cumbersome to effect usage!

As with all tool changers you WILL loose some printable area on the Y axis, this is simply the nature of this sort of retro-fit process. Total Y axis loss in accessible bed space is only 20mm! This is an absolute minimum, it might be best to run around 22-23mm just to be safe.

No space is lost on the X axis.

There is no need for adjustments in fit if your printer is correctly setup & de-racked - this is IMPORTANT! You really DO NOT want any binding as the gantry travels the Y axis, this is very bad for your printer! Be sure to know your printer is square & true & nicely de-racked.

PREPARATION

It is VITALLY IMPORTANT that you print these parts to the correct size, tolerances are extremely tight, sloppy prints just won't cut it! So please DO NOT leave a bad review or low stars because you can't get your printer to print them nicely or because you can't get them to fit properly.

Please ask for help or guidance & look into tuning your machine &/or print profiles. Join us on the DEMON Discord!

Thanks.

One thing that is extremely important for this & is actually REQUIRED for you to print these parts accurately is to calibrate your slicer's "Shrinkage (XY) & (Z)" options.

......Yes you do NEED to do this, & no you CAN'T just skip it & expect things to fit cleanly - they just won't.

Please see this link for Orca Slicer.

https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/material_settings/filament/material_basic_information#shrinkage-xy

Also see this video...

Calibrating for Shrinkage is a 3D printer process most ignore

Teaching Tech

https://youtu.be/HwBweQiFL9g

OTHER THINGS TO NOTE

This page is for x2 Printer models, I know it looks daunting & complex if you read all as a whole,  you must cherry-pick the information that is correct for your machine! Then it gets a whole lot easier!

For now you can simply use a quality brand of VHB tape to secure the PTFE mounts & INDX LINK Case to the rear of the printer if you wish.

• Macros & configs will be released soon! Watch this space!!

• The Sv08 Max's bed will also need to be raised slightly.

MGN12 TOOLHEAD MOUNT DESIGN CHOICES

While it is totally your choice to use whichever parts on your printer I would advise & recommend against using any alternate toolhead mounts that claim to be able to use the stock belts. This will cause issues for you in use. Greatly reduced airflow to the hotend fan! REALLY NOT GOOD! Greatly reduced clamping force to hold & maintain belt position! Increased flex & stress in elongated printed mounting points. Increased chance of failure. In conclusion, why would you spend $700-$1000 on a system upgrade like this but potentially leave yourself open to issues & problems down the line for the sake of spending $20 on new belts & a small amount of time to ensure you have the best & most accurate hassle free operation for the lifespan of your printer!  NOTE: Absolutely no disrespect or hate intended to anyone. I'm just trying to inform you all of why the design is like it is & does NOT use the stock belts. Using stock belts simply creates an unreliable & problematic situation that I'm sure you will not want to deal with.

IMPORTANT!!

Also before you start be aware that the SV08 MAX is a CANBUS system. It will be necessary to change this over to USB at the time of release as INDX cannot currently use CANBUS on Klipper or Kalico! The SV08 OG should be ok as that uses USB natively.

It is also HIGHLY RECOMMENDED you convert your printer to Kalico!

Seriously it's well worth it!

https://docs.kalico.gg/index.html

https://github.com/KalicoCrew/kalico

Mainline Klipper at least is required but will have some small limitations.

You checked off all of the above? ....Ok lets get to it!!

ESTIMATED MAXIMUM NUMBER OF TOOLS

PRINTER	WITHOUT PARTS COOLING	WITH COOLING & REGULAR SPACERS	WITH COOLING & SMALL SPACERS
SV08 OG	9-10	8	9
SV08 MAX	15	11	13

Numbers are approximate & dependant on your parts cooling solution & how tightly you pack the docks.

DOCK SPACING

SV08 OG

Maximum dock spacing WITHOUT OPTIONAL NUMBERED SPACERS…..

incoming....

Maximum dock spacing OPTIONAL SMALL SPACERS…..

With 9 tools dock spacing is 43.438 mm

SV08 MAX 

Maximum dock spacing WITHOUT OPTIONAL NUMBERED SPACERS…..

With 12 tools dock spacing is 46.182mm

With 11 tools dock spacing is 50.80mm

Maximum dock spacing OPTIONAL SMALL SPACERS…..

NOTE: INCOMING... To be uploaded soon!

With 13 tools dock spacing is 42.333mm

BOTH PRINTERS

Minimum dock spacing WITH OPTIONAL NUMBERED SPACERS.....

REGULAR sized spacers fit both printers!

With the use of the numbered spacers they provide a comfortable uniform interference free fit with a few mm clearance, it’s set to 48.50mm

The user can mount the tools as they please. In the number & spacing they choose. Using the numbered dock spacers provided or not. User's choice!

Note squeezing as many tools as possible increases the chances of collisions & PTFE tube entanglement. Resulting in missed steps & tools being dislodged from their docks during printing.

PRINTING THE PARTS

The correctly sized parts will directly bolt on & should provide instant INDX accessibility for either your SV08 OG or SV08 MAX Printer!

NOTE: No parts herein require any slicer generated supports, all models have been designed with extreme care as to not to need them. Turn Slicer supports off NOW!

PART	MATERIAL	LAYER	INFILL
SV08 OG & SV08 MAX INDX 1515 Gantry Mounting	ASA/ABS	0.2	40%+ Gyroid
SV08 OG & SV08 MAX INDX MGN12 Toolhead Mount	ASA/ABS	0.12-0.2	40%+ Gyroid
Numbered Dock Spacers	ASA/ABS	0.12-0.2	40%+ Gyroid
PTFE Combs	ASA/ABS	0.2	40%+ Gyroid
SV08 OG & MAX Basic Bed Spacers	ASA/ABS	0.2	40%+ Gyroid
INDX LINK Case	PETG/ASA/ABS	0.2	40%+ Gyroid
SV08 OG & SV08 MAX INDX LINK Rear Mountings	PETG/ASA/ABS	0.2-0.6	40%+ Gyroid

• 3-4 walls are also recommended!! More if you want!

• TIP! - When printing the toolhead mounts set your first layer to 0.2mm. It should aid support release.

THE BOM

...Ok so what parts am I gonna need for what?!

SV08 OG & SV08 MAX INDX 1515 Gantry Mounting

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
10mm	M3	SHCS	6	Upper & lower 1515 mounts
30mm	M3	SHCS	2	Lower 1515 mounts
50mm	M4	SHCS	4	Lower 1515 mounts
x	M3	NUT	10	Upper & lower 1515 mounts
x	M4	NUT (nyloc)	4	Lower 1515 mounts
x	M4	WASHER	4	Lower 1515 mounts

MakerBeamXL

You will also need x1 of EITHER of these depending on your printer model!! DO NOT BUY BOTH - Unless of course you need them for each printer!

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
500mm	1515	MakerBeamXL	1	Main Tool Mounting SV08 OG
750mm	1515	MakerBeamXL	1	Main Tool Mounting SV08 MAX

Buy your MakerBeam direct from...

Europe: MakerBeam.com

500mm: https://www.makerbeam.com/500mm-1p-black-makerbeamxl-15mmx15mm.html

750mm: https://www.makerbeam.com/750mm-1p-black-makerbeamxl-15mmx15mm.html

World: Find a dealer near you

NOTE: Not affilate links!

SV08 OG MGN12 Toolhead Mount

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
5x4mm	M3	Heat set insert	2	SV08 OG Toolhead Mount
10mm	M3	CSK FH MS (counter sunk flat head machine screw)	4	SV08 OG Toolhead Mount
5 METERS	6mm	Gates Powergrip LL-2GT-6 belt	1	SV08 OG Toolhead Mount

NOTE: Use a 2mm hex key to pop off the integrated supports by pushing it through the x4 central MGN12 mounting bolt holes. The supports should release cleanly, if not please look at tuning your first layer & tolerances.

SV08 MAX INDX MGN12 Mount

Same as above but add these & swap out the 5m of belts for nearer 10m!

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
5x4mm	M3	Heat set insert	2	SV08 MAX Toolhead Mount
10mm	M3	CSK FH MS (counter sunk flat head machine screw)	4	SV08 MAX Toolhead Mount
9-10 METERS	6mm	Gates Powergrip LL-2GT-6 belt	1	SV08 MAX Toolhead Mount
10mm	M2	Self Tapping Screws	2	X endstop switch
x	x	Omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L	1	X endstop Switch

NOTE: Use a 2mm hex key to pop off the integrated supports by pushing it through the x4 central MGN12 mounting bolt holes. The supports should release cleanly, if not please look at tuning your first layer & tolerances.

SV08 OG Basic Bed Spacers

PRINTER VERSION	Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
FIXED BED	50mm	M4	SHCS	6	Bed mounting bolts
SPRUNG BED	65mm	M4	Counter Sunk	6	Bed mounting bolts

SV08 MAX Basic Bed Spacers

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
30	M5	SHCS	8	Underside corner & central spacer mounting bolts
55	M5	Flat or button head	4	Upper central bed mounting bolts

INDX LINK Case Parts

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
5x4	M3	Heat set inserts	7	INDX LINK Case Base & Mount
8-10mm	M3	SHCS	4	NDX LINK Case Base attachment
30mm	M3	SHCS	4	INDX LINK case lid
5mm	M3	SHCS	3	INDX LINK mount
x	x	PG7 Cable glad with spiral strain relief (use x2 if CNLINKO unavailable)	1 (2)	INDX LINK case lid
x	x	CNLINKO LP-12 Plug 4 pin : LP-12-C04PE-02-001	1	INDX LINK case lid
x	x	CNLINKO LP-12 Socker 4 pin : LP-12-J04SX-02-101	1	INDX LINK case lid
40mm	1.75	Small length of transparent PETG for light transfer to outer casing of Power LED’s*	2	INDX LINK case lid

SV08 OG INDX LINK Rear Mountings

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
5x4	M3	Heat set inserts	8	INDX LINK Case & Rear Mounting
8mm	M3	SHCS	7	Fame mounting
10mm	M3	SHCS	4	INDX LINK rear mounting PTFE holders
x	x	4mm Pneumatic couplings 10mm thread	T{n}	Rear Mounted Bowden 10mm Thread 1 & 2

*slide clear PETG into holes above LEDs, leave 3-4mm long inside the case lid, cut flush with outer case & melt bottom ends back with soldering iron & spread filament into the recessed cupped side that sits over LED inside the case lid so its flush with the bottom edge.

SV08 MAX INDX LINK Rear Mountings OPEN VERSION!

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
5x4	M3	Heat set inserts	8	INDX LINK Case & Rear Mounting
8mm	M3	SHCS	8	INDX LINK Case & PTFE Mounting
16mm	M3	SHCS	8	Frame Mounting
x	x	4mm Pneumatic couplings 10mm thread	T[n}	Rear Mounted Bowden 10mm Thread 1 & 2

SV08 MAX INDX LINK Rear Mountings ENCLOSURE VERSION!

Length	Size	Type	Count	Parts
5x4	M3	Heat set inserts	8	Rear assembly
50mm	M4	SHCS	4	120mm Fan
8mm	M3	SHCS	6	Rear assembly & rear bowden mounts
12mm	M3	SHCS	2	Rear bowden mounts
16mm	M3	SHCS	4	Frame mounting
x	x	4mm Pneumatic couplings 10mm thread	T{n}	Rear Mounted Bowden 10mm Thread 1 & 2

Parts for the INDX LINK Case are shown above.

PTFE Tubes, Heat shrink & Piano Wire

PRINTER	PTFE TUBE	6mm HEAT SHRINK TUBE	1mm SPRING STEEL WIRE
SV08 OG	190-220cm+ per tool	115cm per tool	120cm per tool
SV08 MAX	expect at least +50cm	TBA	TBA

The wire I used is called:

• Chapuis FIP10 Wire - Steel C85 - Diameter 1 mm - Length 12.3 m

It should be able to be bought on Amazon, else an equivalent piano wire should do.

INSTALLATION

How to install the integrations on your printer...!

INDX LINK

Add M3 Heat set inserts to the 3 central holes in part SV08 INDX LINK Mount v1.2

• This is to mount the INDX LINK, use the x3 5mm M3 bolts.

Add M3 heat set inserts to the x4 central holes in model SV08 INDX LINK Base v1.1

• This is to mount the SV08 INDX LINK Cover v1.1 using the x4 30mm M3 bolts.

Next grab the small length of transparent PETG & slide one bit down each of the small holes in the top of part SV08 INDX LINK Cover v1.1. Place on a flat surface upside down so they sit flush with the top of the part. 

Cut them to within 3-4mm of the bottom of the opening inside the part.

Then take a soldering iron & melt the PETG down flush to fill the chamfered area. This locks the PETG in place & allows the INDX LINK LED's to shine through to be clearly seen when assembled.  You could add a couple of drops of CA glue if you wished also.

Add the PG7 cable glads, or use a CNLINKO plug if you have one. As shown below. 

• PG7 >>>> to Toolhead

• CNLINKO >>>> to INDX LINK Power (& can bus when available)

NOTE: You may need to de-pin the toolhead connectors to pass them through the PG7 cable gland!

The CNLINKO plug (left side) will allow power & CANBUS connections in the future as its 4 pin. It doesn't matter which pins you use - just as long as they match up on both sides of the connector!

SV08 OG Basic Bed Spacers

Due to the motors hitting the rear deck after installing INDX it is necessary to raise the bed by 10mm so the motors don't crash when homing or printing, this 10mm lift allows the INDX nozzle to reach the build surface. 

Remove the build plate, undo the x6 bolts you see underneath & gently lift the bed, it'll come away only a small amount due to the power cables underneath! SO DO NOT YANK IT!!!

slide the basic bed spacers into the recesses & replace the bolts with the x6 50mm ones.

SV08 MAX Bed Spacers

The SV08 MAX also requires a bed lift, although only about 1/3rd of the OG model. Still, it needs it.

Unfortunately the process is a little more involved than on the OG, but it's not terrible, you might find it easier with an assistant - simply due to the machine's size & weight.

Remove the power cord, any plugs from the side & the wifi antenna! If you don't you'll break it off in a minute.

If you have the Sovol enclosure....

WARNING - REMOVE ALL GLASS ENCLOSURE PANELS NOW!!!

...If you forget you'll be cleaning up broken glass instead of doing this, doh!

With all glass panels removed & stored away safely elsewhere, lift off the build plate & undo all x4 outer bolts & x2 of the inner bolts of the x8 bolts you see on the bed & fish out both the black & white bits of plastic underneath - DO NOT LOOSE THEM!!

Leave x2 of the centre bolts in place in diagonal corners, front left & rear right for example.

Now grab your assistant & get them to help you flip the printer over onto the right side as you look at it, get your assistant to push in a thick folded blanket under the printer to help protect the wifi antenna socket & inlet switch.

BE REALLY CAREFUL AS HIGH CHANCE OF BREAKAGE HERE!

Now, very carefully remove the two bolts you left in the bed noting that this is a 500x500 big chunk of metal! Get your assistant to help you hold it while you remove the bolts.

GENTLY & VERY CAREFULLY rotate the bed downward so it's laying upside down on the side of the printer.

Make sure you leave the bottom edge inside the bed frame & DO NOT let it fall or you'll be having a bad day as the bed wires need it to be like this!

All bed mounts are shown in x6 dark rectangles. x4 small & x2 large.

Remove the x4 bolts in the x2 long supports inside the printer under the centre of the bed. 

Insert the long bed spacers & replace the original bolts.

Remove the electronics bay cover to access the two outer bed mount bolts located inside. Hold the black spacers inside the where the corners of the bed would be & undo the bolts on the underside of the printer.

If the helicoil style springs come out with removal don't worry simply take all parts out & screw them back in until flush. This happened with mine!

Add the printed spacers to each corner bolt & replace the black spacers on top as seen below...

Now just reverse the steps to reassemble the printer! You bed should now be high enough for INDX.

SV08 INDX MGN12 Mount v2.0.1 & SV08 MAX INDX MGN12 Mount v2.0

Start by removing the integrated supports. Use a 2mm hex key to pop off the integrated supports by pushing it through the x4 central MGN12 mounting bolt holes.

• The supports should release cleanly, if not please look at tuning your first layer & tolerances.

SV08 MAX INDX MGN12 Mount v2.0 Shown

The supports Should easily pop off the print cleanly & in one single piece without any damage to the toolhead mount! If this is NOT the case with yours please look at tuning your printer &/or print profiles!

Next add the x2 M3 heat set inserts to the lower innermost holes as shown below.

• NOTE: When fully seated they will slightly below the surface of the print.

You can also add the Omron D2F-5 or D2f-5L switch using the 10mm self tapping screws.

• NOTE MAX version ONLY. However you could if you wanted use it on the OG too to convert the OG to X endstop rather than sensorless homing. A bump-stop on the gantry would also be required for this!

SV08 OG & SV08 MAX INDX 1515 Gantry Mounting

Start by carefully measuring your length of MakerbeamXL 1515 extrusion to...

Printer	MakerBeamXL 1515 Length
SV08 OG	430mm
SV08 MAX	590 mm

Then cut the Makerbeam on a Mitre saw set to 0º, be sure to secure the MakerBeam & gently make the cut in the right place. Don't worry the soft aluminium won't bother your chop saw, if you have access to one.

• Put masking tape on the end for a clean cut & so you can see your mark where to cut!

REMEMBER your saw blade has a kerf! This means by cutting you will loose material of the MakerBeam to the width of the saw blade!

If you don't have access to expensive power tools, you can buy a hacksaw & mitre box for not a lot of money from almost any hardware/tool shop or even Amazon. Also don't scrimp on a metal file & some fine grit sandpaper, you don't want sharp edges now!

If you have an ORIGINAL (350 size) SV08 printer you can also use this to help you cut the MakerBeamXL to the correct length. It assumes you bought a 500mm length of the 1515 extrusion.

LOWER MOUNTS

Once the 1515 is cut & finished & you're happy with it move onto the printer. Remove the x4 M4 bolts holding the gantry to the two front Z carriages.

• The two smaller headed purple bolts tucked in the corner here.

Then replace them with the x4 50mm M4 bolts, x2 each side. They will stick out a long way when you screw them all the way down, don't worry thats exactly what we want! 

Like this....

Next slide the respective Lower mounts onto those long bolts

Secure them with x4 M4 washers & x4 M4 Nuts, x2 each side of the printer.

This now means you have a crazy solid base to mount the 1515 extrusion on!

DONT MISS THIS STEP NOW!!!

Here at this point we need to slide in the correct number of regular nuts onto the MakerBeamXL. 

The ones on the top & bottom faces are for mounting the extrusion to the printer, then the ones that come with your INDX docks should be used on the front face of the 1515 extrusion to obviously mount whatever number of docks you have.

Position Left	Count	Count	Position Right	Total per Face
Top Left	2	2	Top Right	4
Front	Tools *{n}	Tools *{n}	Front	Tools *{n}
Bottom Left	2	2	Bottom Right	4

Now the slightly tricky bit...

Take the x2 30mm M3 bolts & x2 of the 10mm M3 bolts.

You need to align the nuts with the bolt on the lower mounts, insert the bolts into the long & short holes on the underside of the lower mounts to pick up the nuts you placed in the extrusion channel.

If you find things slide around you can see if you can insert in a bit of material to stop the nuts moving too much, like some tiny blobs of malleable (non permanent) gum type poster adhesive for example.

Tighten these bolts on both sides & your 1515 extrusion is HALFWAY mounted!

UPPER MOUNTS

To install the upper mounts remove the two larger purple coloured bolts as seen below each side of the front of the printer's gantry.

Now use a pin or small hex key to manoeuvre the nuts you placed in the top face of the 1515 extrusion until they align with the empty holes (image left) in the upper mounts. You can lift the upper mounts back off if the nuts are too far out. Once in a good position add the other 10mm M3 bolts to secure them onto the 1515 - but DO NOT fully tighten them down yet!

Replace the large original bolts you just removed to fully secure the upper mounts.

Make sure everything is square, even & nicely aligned! Tighten down all bolts gently, do not crush any parts! If you hear crunching - thats bad!

DOCKS

OK time for the fun bit! Grab your Numbered Dock Spacer 'T0"!

• This is the reference point all your docks will be aligned to!

• These should be slightly tough press fit so they don't rattle & shake about during printer operation.

If you find they are a bit too tight. Go down to your nearest dollar store and buy some nail files, they're like sandpaper on stiff foam. Gently sand off some to the tabs that hold the spacers in. 

Inversely if they're a touch too loose look to add some material, electrical tape for example.

• DO NOT reduce or increase the Spacers' size in the slicer. They need to be the size they are!

Move your first Dock nut out the way on the front face of the 1515 & press the T0 spacer in & slide it as far left as it'll go. 

• It needs to butt up to the flat surface under the 1515 extrusion on the lower mount! Don't be too rough with it.

Now offer up your T0 Dock to the T0 spacer with a firm contact fit & hold it secure while you tighten down the first nut you added earlier for your docks.

Add the T1 spacer to the right side of the T0 Dock, it must also be touching. Install the T1 Dock.

• Repeat until you have installed all tools & spacers!

• Be sure to add the DEMON face spacer to complete the setup!

TOOLHEAD

This one is super simple but also a little tricky!

Replace the printers belts, Sovol made the printers' belts very short indeed, so much so they're really too short to be of any use on any other toolhead mount & we definitely DO NOT want to loose any more Y axis to something as silly as a toolhead adapter plate! Just NO!

• Also the stock Sovol toolhead mount won't actually allow for INDX to be fitted to the printer anyway, so it needs to be replaced regardless.

So change the belts for proper length ones & be done! There are plenty of documented instruction & videos available for Voron printers amongst others on how to change belts on coreXY machines. Please see those if you need guidance in that.

Once the belts have been replaced & properly routed hold them at equal tension & length & attach your chosen SV08 INDX MGN12 Toolhead Mount & tighten the bolts down with the belts correctly positioned within the anchor points.

The INDX toolhead requires as MUCH open space as possible inside where the belts sit. Be sure not to leave your belts long. They should be cut extremely short!

This is why I have made this INDX Belt Helper Tool to make this job waaaaaay easier! I highly recommend you download, print & use it! Seriously, go grab it right now!

Attach the toolhead to the chosen mount with the helper tool's aid!

THE CABLE

Be sure to add an appropriate length of 1mm spring steel wire to the toolhead cable. It will need to be straightened to be used, attach with cable ties.

• Lastly make sure you add the cable clip the correct way up as shown! With the lip ON TOP!

SV08 OG INDX LINK Rear Mountings

Take the two halves of the rear panels, meshed or open, your choice, add x4 M3 heat set inserts to the top mountings for Rear Mounted Bowden 10mm Thread models, just one or both, again, your choice!

• Positions shown here with 6 holes each. So you can run just one or you can split the tools you have between the pair either side of the INDX LINK unit.

Also add the heat set inserts on the shortest sides for the INDX LINK unit, x2 on each half.

Next mount the SV08 OG INDX LINK Rear Mountings to the printer frame. It can be used with or without the stock SOVOL enclosure.

• Just be careful when adding bolts to secure them as if they're too long they can & will collide with the two rear Z carriages when in use!! Thats REALLY not good!

Then add the INDX LINK assembly to join & secure the parts on the printer!

NOTE: The rear mountings for the SV08 OG can be used on either an open or enclosed printer with the Sovol enclosure kit, however due to the nature of the printer & the fact all the tools need to raise with the gantry it is not possible to use the stock glass lid. 

SV08 MAX INDX LINK Rear Mountings

If you have the Sovol Stock enclosure then you need the ENCLOSURE version

If you have an open printer you need the other version to mount the INDX LINK case & PTFE tube holders

Both version will require proper cable routing. 

The enclosure version needs the INDX LINK case to be mounted somewhere else of your choosing due to the upper 120mm exhaust fan mounted on the rear of the enclosure panel in it's preferred place.

There is a PG7 sized bracket to mount & hold the INDX LINK cable in place.

To mount the enclosure version assemble the 3 main parts flat, make sure the x4 M3 8mm interconnectio bolts are LOOSE the mount the unit on the rear of the enclosure using the x4 M3 16mm bolts, taking GREAT CARE not to cross-thread anything!

The open version is as the SV08 OG version above.

NOTE: The rear mountings for the SV08 MAX must be used on their respective setups, either an open or enclosed printer with the Sovol enclosure kit, however due to the nature of the printer & the fact all the tools need to raise with the gantry it is not possible to use the stock glass lid. 

PTFE TUBE RUNS

To make the Tools usable you'll need to add PTFE tube to the system. However they are notoriously wiggly & will absolutely REFUSE to behave - so you need to make them!

Running PTFE can be the MAKE-OR-BREAK of a tool changer system, it is something YOU are going to need to tune & perfect for YOUR printer! I have printed many hours on mine as shown but it did take a bit of time tuning lengths, straightening tubes/wires & making sure it's all good. 

DO NOT rush this part - it's VERY IMPORTANT to get it as setup as well as you can!

• This is where the 1mm spring steel comes in. It must be straightened before use, tweak it bit by bit between your fingers & thumb to remove the curve from being on the roll.

Make sure your gantry is all the way down. Add your PTFE tubes to the printer by popping them into the tops of the tools & leaving the ends very long & pass them all the way through the pneumatic couplers noting that the tubes MUST contact the front crossbar of the machine as they arc over to the docks!

• DO NOT let them come back into the build space! You want a LARGE clean arc over the build area coming down vertically into the tool dock area.

Slide on a correct length of 6mm heat shrink tubing - DO NOT shrink yet!

• On the SV08 OG this is approximately 1.2m

Now slide the now straightened lengths of spring steel wire up the shrink tube alongside the PTFE tube & insert the end of the wire into the tiny hole next to the coupler on the rear units Leave it long also.

NOTE that as the PTFE tubes cross the printer (so from T0 to T7+) their PTFE tube run needs to be slightly longer than the previous run when used on the mount nearest T0, whereas if used on the furthest mount (image left) they actually get a little shorter as they increase by tool number!

Once you have confirmed everything is good use a heat gun not a blow torch or lighter to shrink one tube to make sure you did ok! Then do the rest after you're happy.

PTFE Combs

Be sure to test print a PTFE Comb first before you commit to a batch. Check the size & grip. They should hold well but not pinch!

Use the small ones for the spool side of the PTFE run & then the large ones for the covered tool side runs.

To use open them slightly one gap at a time & insert the PTFE tube. Make sure theyre evenly spaced & the openings are facing you (up & out).

The heat shrink covered tubes should be supported at least by 2 combs. One at about 10-o'clock & the other about 11-o'clock on the arc of the PTFE tube. Try not to place one at 12-o'clock as that will shorten the flexible length of the tubes.

The PTFE Combs are designed to give the maximum grip & support while using the simplest, lightest & strongest shape. It also allows you to run any additional cables or connections through the holes in them directly next to the PTFE tubes.

Congrats! You just INDX'ified your SV08! ....Well almost.

1515 Z Height Adjustment Shims

There was no indication that you should need shims on either the CAD or my own printers. Although there have been a couple of reports of users requiring an adjustment of 1.3mm to get a perfect fit on some machines.

It might be that Sovol updated their design but didn’t update or publish any CAD for these changes. As I’ve mentioned the available CAD fits my printer perfectly & it has nearly 4000 successful changes with no shims installed.

So please keep this in mind when you’re fitting your system!

… if you do need shims... you can adjust the height the 1515 extrusion sits in relation to the INDX toolhead.

• To adjust determine which direction you need to adjust to, up or down & by how much. If you don't know by how far but you know you need to go up or down you can print a range of shims at different heights.

• VERY IMPORTANT! Be sure to write on them the thicknesses as you must not mix up different heights!!

• Select the two pairs of corresponding shims from the files section. (Up/Down & Left/Right sides)

• Add them to your slicer & modify their Z height to suit your required adjustment & print.

• Undo the corresponding bolts on the 1515 Upper & Lower mounts depending on which way you wanted to adjust & insert the shims, then replace parts with a highly accurate & even adjustment in place!

Each side of shims (L/R)  work in pairs, so you have x4 shims total per adjustment. They allow the user to lift or drop the mounted position of the 1515 extrusion so they can fine tune it to their individual machine.

YOU MUST SET THE SHIM THICKNESS FOR YOUR PRINTER - IF YOU NEED IT!

...You should not need any adjustment though.

Why shims? They're precise & give extremely accurate unified adjustment, they're simple & repeatable. They also negate the chance for misalignment by tightening adjustment screws unevenly or unintentional user error.

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PRINTER.CFG SECTIONS

Below are my values for my machine, please don't blindly use them on yours without checking them first!

SAFETY WARNING!!

These values have come directly from my SV08 OG printer with INDX. You ABSOLUTELY MUST double check EVERY value you paste into your config! I'm not even joking, don't just ASSUME some random dude on the internet got stuff right for YOUR printer - yes, even me! PLEASE check these values are all good BEFORE you use them & run your printer! No responsibility or liability will be accepted in whole or part for any damage, malfunction, injury, loss, or death caused directly or indirectly from using ANY models or information presented here or elsewhere in my works. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

ONCE AGAIN - VERIFY ALL VALUES & SETTINGS BEFORE USE!

BEFORE FIRST TESTS....

Once you have added &/or modified sections & you are ready to run the system to do your first powered tests it's a good idea to change the INDX Mode to STEALTH. This will slow everything down & make things much gentler, so hopefully it'll reduce any mishaps to a slight bump rather than a full on smash. Just in case!

In the console send...

MODE_STEALTH

To change back use....

MODE_NORMAL

BOTH PRINTERS....

Please see the INDX Wiki HERE for more info.

Note: You must insert your board's own serial ID for things to work!

[mcu indxmcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Bondtech_INDX_<your-serial-here>
[indx]
mcu: indxmcu
pid_kp: 1.0
pid_ti: 0.0
pid_td: 0.0
pid_b: 1.0
[extruder]
sensor_type: indx
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 350
heater_pin: indx:heater
control: watermark
nozzle_diameter: 0.4
filament_diameter: 1.75
step_pin: indxmcu:motor_step
dir_pin: indxmcu:motor_dir
enable_pin: !indxmcu:motor_enable
microsteps: 32
rotation_distance: 5.7
max_extrude_cross_section: 5
min_extrude_temp: 175
max_extrude_only_distance: 250
max_extrude_only_velocity: 45
pressure_advance: 0.035
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.040
[tmc2240 extruder]
cs_pin: indxmcu:motor_cs
spi_software_sclk_pin: indxmcu:motor_sclk
spi_software_mosi_pin: indxmcu:motor_mosi
spi_software_miso_pin: indxmcu:motor_miso
rref: 24000
run_current: 0.6
[fan]
pin: indxmcu:part_cooling
tachometer_pin: indxmcu:part_cooling_tacho
[neopixel indx]
pin: indxmcu:led
chain_count: 16
[gcode_button endstop]
pin: ^indxmcu:endstop
press_gcode: {action_respond_info("press")}
release_gcode: {action_respond_info("release")}
[lis2dw]
i2c_mcu: indxmcu
i2c_bus: sercom3
[angle indx]
sensor_type: as5047d
stepper: extruder
cs_pin: indxmcu:encoder_cs
spi_bus: sercom1
[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: lis2dw
probe_points: 175, 167.5, 50

SV08 OG CARTOGRAPHER3D V4 SCANNER CONFIG....

Please see the Carto Wiki HERE for more info.

Note: You must insert your board's own serial ID for things to work!

[mcu cartographer] # See https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#mcu
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Cartographer_stm32g431xx_<INSERT_YOUR_SERIAL_ID_HERE>
restart_method: command

[cartographer]
mcu: cartographer
x_offset:0 # This is the offset of your probe from the nozzle tip, to the centre of the coil.
y_offset: 20 # This is the offset of your probe from the nozzle tip, to the centre of the coil.
verbose: no # For extra output
[bed_mesh]
zero_reference_position: 175, 167.5 # The centre of your bed. 
speed: 300
horizontal_move_z: 3
mesh_min: 20, 56 # The first probed coordinate, nearest to the origin. This coordinate is relative to the probe's location.
mesh_max: 330,270 # The probed coordinate farthest from the origin. This is not necessarily the last point probed, as the probing process occurs in a zig-zag fashion. As with mesh_min, this coordinate is relative to the probe's location.
probe_count: 50, 50
adaptive_margin: 5
mesh_pps: 0,0 # Disable interpolation - mesh is probably dense enough
[temperature_sensor cartographer]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
sensor_mcu: cartographer
min_temp: 5
max_temp: 105
#[adxl345]
Select 1 of the cs_pin below depending on the probe you have.
Having the wrong one selected will cause an Endless Bootloop
Cartographer V4 has int2 connected to the probes PA1 pin
cs_pin: cartographer:PA3 # For Cartographer V3
#cs_pin: cartographer:PA0 # For Cartographer V4
#spi_bus: spi1
#[resonance_tester]
#accel_chip: adxl345
#probe_points: 175, 167.5, 50 # Fill out the blank with x and y coordinates where you want to run the resonance test.
[cartographer scan]
#probe_speed: 5
Speed (in mm/s) of the Z axis when probing.
Constraints: minimum: 0.1
#mesh_runs: 1
Number of runs when doing a scan mesh. Consecutive runs will trace back the way it came from.
#mesh_height: 3
The height (in mm) of the head when doing a mesh run.
Constraints: minimum: 1
#mesh_direction: 'x'
Axis of which to do the most moves along.
Allowed values: x, y
#mesh_path: 'snake'
The path to use when calibrating a scan mesh.
Allowed values: snake, alternating_snake, spiral, random
[cartographer touch]
#samples: 3
The number of samples to use when doing a touch.
Constraints: minimum: 3
max_samples: 20
The maximum number of samples to do before giving up.
#max_noisy_samples: 2
The number of noisy samples tolerated within the sliding window. The window size is calculated as samples + max_noisy_samples. A smaller value prevents cherry-picking good samples from a noisy sequence.
Constraints: minimum: 0
#UNSAFE_max_touch_temperature: 150
The maximum allowed nozzle temperature to use when touching the plate. This is set to 150C to avoid damaging your plate. Change this AT YOUR OWN RISK.
#EXPERIMENTAL_home_random_radius: 0.0
Radius around the Z home position to do touch.
Constraints: minimum: 0.0
#retract_distance: 2.0
Retract distance (in mm) between touch samples.
Constraints: minimum: 1.0
sample_range: 0.015
Acceptable range (in mm) between touch samples.
Constraints: minimum: 0.001, maximum: 0.015

NOTE: TO USE CARTO & THE LOAD CELL TOGETHER!

See this Github Issue for info!

SV08 OG XYZ MIN/MAX POS EDITS...

Note: These must be edits to your existing sections only! DO NOT replace with just these! NO!

These edits will move the Y0 coordinate forward on your bed to clear your docks & give you a few mm of safe area. This means if you ever command a negative Y value it will travel into the INDX Docking Zone! Anything of Y0 or higher will be a safe travel & printable area.

Also when you mirror these values in your slicer as per below it will be impossible for you to place models in this Docking Zone, so keeping things safe & stopping any incidents or possible printer damage.

THIS SHOULD BE EDITS TO YOUR [stepper_x] SECTION!
position_endstop: 356
position_max: 356

THIS SHOULD BE EDITS TO YOUR [stepper_y] SECTION!
position_min: -27
position_endstop: 338
position_max: 338

THIS SHOULD BE EDITS TO YOUR [stepper_z] SECTION!
position_max: 340
position_min: -1

SV08 OG SLICER PRINTABLE AREA SETTINGS...

Note: Don't forget to also edit your slicer's "Printable Area" in "Printer Settings"

SIZE:   X 356      Y335
ORIGIN: X 0        Y0

SV08 OG INDX.CFG FILE SETTINGS...

Note: Edit these values DO NOT add them a second time!!

variable_z_hop: 5.0

variable_clearance_y: 5

FINDING DOCK_Y....

Once you have found your dock_y values they should read as -26 

EXAMPLE: variable_t0_dock_y: -26

See this link to learn how to do this... 

Finding dock_y

SV08 MAX SETTINGS TBA....

Sorry Max owners, specific info to come...

STAND-ALONE MACROS

The DEMON INDX macros are available now! Find them HERE!

Not only that.....

DEMON DOCKS!

Remixed Bondtech docks with same form factor but with the ability to sense when a tool is docked or not! 

Find them HERE!

This system allows active tool sensing with load cell confirmation for all attached docks with simple & accurate switch connection to a non-critical MCU.

DEMON_DOCKS will auto scan for empty docks at startup & disable sensing for those docks. They can be added back into active docks (or removed again) at runtime by command/macro button. The docks can be set to warn only of a potential problem, raise errors if not printing, PAUSE the print if printing, emergency stop if not printing, or emergency stop when printing.

The load cell dock/undock confirmation can be set on/off at runtime.

The system warns of:

- Undocked tools at startup that will be ignored

- ignored docks during tool changes

- inactive tools undocked at any time

- problems during non-printing operations

- load cell readings out of range

- docking failures - printing & non-printing

- pickup (undocking) failures - printing & non-printing

DEMON_DOCKS then takes specified actions for each type of occurrence.

It can even pause a tool change while printing if a problem is detected!