SAURIAN Fursuit Head Frame

A FURSUIT FRAME FOR DINOS AND REPTILES!

Made for customisation, this frame is perfect for those who want to create a Dinosaur persona! With the possibilities of making add-ons and mods to turn a generic Raptor-esque base into almost any therapod dinosaur, or even a herbivore with a bit of work, the possibilities for creation are limited only to your imagination (and maybe the printing space!)

TWO STYLES: Short/Abelisaur and Regular. Pick a style and away you go!

THE EYES

They are slightly inset, meaning you can make eyes that appear to follow when people walk around you. I recommend printing them in a strong material like ABS or PETG.

If you wear the framework without any padding on the forehead, the eyes will sit very close to your face, which can be uncomfortable and means you cannot wear glasses whilst wearing the mask, so it is strongly advised that you apply padding to the framework's forehead to give your eyes more room.

THE JAW

There is no special chin rest for you to use to make the jaw work; you use the jaw itself! If you apply padding to the forehead, you may need to add padding to the inner jaw also, just for comfort.

Slots can be found on the upper and lower portions of the snout for threading elastic or rubber bands through, to pull the jaw up when you're not speaking.

THE TEETH

There are three types of teeth provided: standard carnivore, which are sharp. Herbivore teeth, which are smooth and flat, are almost like Barney the Dinosaur's teeth. And vampire style, which is labelled Omni. Please note that the Omni style does not allow the jaw to fully close.

SUPPORTS AND ASSEMBLY ARE REQUIRED

Due to the size and nature of the model, both are unavoidable, but I have done my best to ensure support removal is simple and that assembly is minimal.

I recommend covering the mask frame with your desired material before sticking the teeth into the frame. The eyes slot into the frame from the inside, not the front, so you can apply them first or last. The teeth and eyes require glue to stay in place.

STICKING THINGS ON

With both the TPU and PLA versions of the mask framework, I used a combination of hand-stitching and hot glue to stick material to it. I applied a lot of holes to the framework to make sure there was something for glue to grip onto, or for thread to loop around for extra security.

Superglue should work fine. Air-dry clay should work well, too. Just be aware that clay adds weight, and that might compromise the jaw's ability to stay closed, depending on what you're using to close the jaw.

COMMERCIAL USE

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is not allowed. Do not remove the creator stamp from the model.

If you want to sell prints of this model, please read the below FAQ or visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

---FAQ---

Please see the questions below before asking any in the comments; your answer may be here already.

--I want to sell prints of this model. Is this allowed?--

Not without paying for the right to do so. The fee on this model is for private printing use. If you wish to sell prints of this model, you must subscribe to the “Commercial License" tier of my Patreon and can only sell prints for the period you subscribe for. The other tiers do not cover commercial use: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards/membership

You must also NOT remove, modify, or cover the creator stamps (found on the jaw pegs) if you plan on selling prints of the framework. If you are selling finished heads (with material over them), the creator stamps are in a location where the material should not need to touch them.

--I want to remix this model. Is this allowed?--

You can only remix this model for private use. You cannot upload your remix or any model you have made that uses any of this model's parts.

If you make a mod/add-on that fits the framework, you may upload ONLY your mod/add-on, provided it is not part of the original model. (Example: You make a crest that snaps onto the framework. You upload only the crest you made and cite that the crest is a mod/add-on for the mask.)

--How long does it take to print this model?--

This depends on many things; your printer's speed, the material you're using, if you're scaling things up or down, and if you're printing everything on one plate or as loose parts.

Because there are so many factors that can determine how long a pribnt of this frame can take, I cannot give any examples for other materials but the ones I used:

TPU 95A took roughly 14 hours on each part of the frame itself.

PLA took roughly 12 hours on the skull region of the frame, 10 hours for the jaw, and 6 hours for the muzzle.

PLA eye inserts and teeth took anywhere from 10 minutes to 3 hours.

--How large is this model? Will it fit me?--

The size of the model depends on whether you upscale or shrink the provided model components; unless your hotbed is larger than the 3MF one, the size provided is on the absolute limit of how large it can be printed. This size fits a five-foot-five-inch-tall adult.

--What materials/colours are used in your examples?--

I used filament from Eryone for the red PLA, Bambulab for the white PLA and the white TPU.

--Will it fit on my printer?--

This framework is near the absolute limit for standard printers. Small printers, such as the A1 Mini, will not be able to print this model without being significantly cut into further parts.

Check your printing plates' size; if it is below 256mm x 256mm x 256mm then you will have to cut up the model further to print it. Anything over this size is best.

--I'm having issues with adhesion. What would you suggest?--

A majority of adhesion issues are user-end problems and are not associated with the model itself. There are numerous things you can do to troubleshoot your adhesion issues.

First, establish if your printing plate is clean; gently clean it with dish soap and warm water, and dry it with a clean cloth. Try not to touch the surface of the plate, as the natural oils in our skin will contaminate the surface, making it dirty again; hold the plate in the corners or in areas you won't be printing on.

If the plate is clean, and you still have adhesion problems, and you are using a smooth plate, you could try applying glue to it. However, only use glue recommended by your plate's manufacturer.

If the plate surface is damaged in any way, you should consider replacing it; the surface should be free of scratches or deep marks.

Try printing with a brim or levelling your hotbed.

Try a different style of plate; if you used a textured PEI, why not have a go on a smooth plate?

The material you are using might be too wet; dry out your filament before printing with it again, or try another type of material.

If your nozzle is over-extruding, it can “pull” the model from the plate during printing, making it seem like an adhesion issue when in reality, it's an extrusion issue. Ensure your nozzle isn't over-extruding filament.

You may want to investigate if your machine's firmware needs updating, or if there is a known fault with your machine/plate type.

--The model messed up. Can you help?--

I need to know HOW it has “messed up”, and WHERE in the model it has “messed up”, before troubleshooting anything. If you provide no details to me, I can't help you.

--The model broke when I touched it. What happened?--

Anything could have happened, it depends on numerous user-end factors.

Don't “rip” your models from the plate when they are done, even if you saw some YouTuber do it; this guarantees you'll eventually break a model, often a result of putting unnecessary strain on parts as you rip the model off the plate. Study proper model removal procedures, such as “flexing” your plate at all four corners to help lift the model from its surface, and gently use a scraper to get under any stubborn parts.

Don't print using a brittle filament. Whilst I print all my items in PLA and PLA+, and the parts hold up fine, if you want something guaranteed to be stronger I recommend giving ABS or PETG a try.

Double-check your printer's layer settings, and ensure the nozzle is clean; it may have skipped a layer, or the nozzle may have had a clog and failed to extrude part of a layer. Bad layer adhesion can cause weakness on all models.

If a socket joint broke when inserting a peg, double-check all support material was removed from the socket.

If you add additional walls to the model it makes the model thicker, resulting in parts fusing or the pegs will no longer fit in the sockets. Do not add additional walls.

The infill density must not be set too low, as it will weaken the model. Try not to go below 9%.

--I used TPU and got a lot of stringing/supports fused to the framework and there is scarring from removing it. What should I do?--

TPU needs to be printed slower than all other materials, and generally, you want to avoid printing supports in TPU as they tend to fuse with the model. Because this is a framework intended to be covered over with material, I ignored the scarring and stringing.

Please note that the print profile is configured for PLA, not TPU. If you plan on printing in TPU, you can reduce the stringing by slowing the printing speed down.

--Something else went wrong/I have a question that wasn't answered here.--

Read the instructions first if you haven't already, then please provide your issue in the comments. If you require my help, please be clear and precise about what went wrong.

If you have another question, please leave it in the comments and I will do my best to answer it.