Parametric Handmade Paper Mould & Deckle – Stainless Steel Mesh (Fusion 360)

Parametric Handmade Paper Mould & Deckle

Stainless Steel Mesh Edition

Welcome to Version 2 of my parametric handmade paper mould & deckle!

After publishing my fully 3D printed mesh version, I wanted to see if I could produce a smoother sheet of paper by embedding fine stainless steel mesh directly into the print.

After a fair few failures, I finally found a method that works reliably for me, and I thought I'd share the files and the tips I use to print successfully.

Unlike the printed mesh version, this design uses super fine stainless steel mesh, giving a much finer surface while still keeping all of the advantages of a fully parametric design.

Included with this download are:

• Open Press Square (Paper Size 70 × 70 mm)

• Open Press Rectangle (Paper Size 70 × 140 mm)

• A6 Paper

• A5 Paper

• Bambu A1 Mini Large Square (Paper Size 135 × 135 mm)

• Bambu A1 Large Square (Paper Size 210 × 210 mm)

Because the model is fully parametric, you can create almost any size you like, although I have not tested larger than A5 so please let me know how you get on!

Choosing The Mesh

I'd recommend using the thinnest woven stainless steel mesh you can find. It isn't going to work unless the mesh is really fine! The thinner the mesh, the easier it is for the printer to embed it into the frame.

When cutting the mesh to fit the mould and deckle, I use a pair of big kitchen scissors, and as a general guide, I cut the mesh around 14–25 mm larger than the finished paper size. I aim for 20mm, but it can be bigger, smaller, wonky etc.

Printing

I recommend using a 0.4 mm nozzle.

During my testing on my Bambu Lab H2D, a 0.2 mm nozzle clogged almost immediately when it contacted the mesh. Twice. I then stopped.

A 0.4 mm nozzle has worked reliably for me.

I also print using the printer's slowest speed preset while the mesh is being embedded.

Once several solid layers have been printed over the mesh, I increase the speed for the rest of the print.

How I Embed the Mesh - Video now on my Instagram! (Scroll down for details)

After trying so many methods, this is what now works for me.

In Bambu Studio, when I slice my file, I set a pause after 2 layers. I then lay the mesh onto the printed mould layers.

I use magnets to hold it flat and secure.

Once happy with its position, I secure it using small pieces of Kapton (polyimide) tape.

I mainly tape:

• the corners

• any loose wires

• any edges that lift

• then random bits around the edge

I've included pictures of the process!

I try to leave small gaps around the outside so the PLA can flow through the mesh and lock it firmly into the frame.

As soon as the printer has completed a few loops around the inner edge, I remove the magnets straight away.

Positioning the Print

If you're printing one of the smaller moulds, I'd recommend placing it towards the front of the build plate.

This is especially useful on enclosed printers like my Bambu Lab H2D.

You'll be reaching in to:

• position the mesh

• place the magnets

• apply the tape

• remove the magnets

Having the mould at the front makes this much easier.

If you're printing the deckle at the same time, place the mould at the front and the deckle behind it.

Trust me...

Print the Mould & Deckle Separately

I'd also recommend printing the mould and deckle separately.

The deckle is an easy print.

The mould is where all the excitement happens! And possibly the failures...

If something goes wrong while embedding the mesh, you'll only need to reprint the mould instead of both parts.

Expect a Bit of Trial & Error

I've had plenty of failed prints while developing this.

I've had my hand clipped by the printer while removing magnets.

I've had tape lift.

I've had mesh move.

I've paused countless prints.

I've definitely had a few arguments with my printers.

I pretty much get successful prints every time now, but my hand still hovers over the pause button during those first few layers.

Sometimes the nozzle catches the Kapton tape and it gets a little "mushed up".

Usually the following layers flatten everything back down.

I normally keep an eye on those first few layers and perform a little tape surgery if needed.

One Thing That Didn't Work

I also experimented with creating a shallow recess in Fusion 360 for the mesh to sit inside. It didn't work. 

Unfortunately, I found the plastic didn't grip the mesh nearly as well.

For me, the strongest results came from allowing the nozzle to print directly onto the mesh.

Please Read

This method involves printing directly onto stainless steel mesh.

It has worked really well for me, but I honestly have no idea if this is bad for your printer or nozzles..

Please try it at your own risk.

Keep an eye on the first few layers.

Be ready to pause the print if something doesn't look right.

Making Paper

I've recycled all sorts of scraps with this, including:

• Envelopes

• Scraps

• Packaging

• Junk Mail

• Coloured paper

• Receipts

• Old prints

Experiment with whatever you have. One of the best things about handmade paper is discovering the different colours, textures and fibres you can create from everyday waste.

Basic Instructions

There are lots of different techniques for making handmade paper, but this is the simple method I use.

1. Fill a container with water and add your prepared paper pulp.

2. Place the deckle on top of the mould, making sure they're aligned, and hold them firmly together.

3. Dip the mould and deckle into the pulp mixture at a slight angle, then lift them upwards in one smooth motion.

4. Gently shake the mould from side to side and front to back to help the fibres settle evenly across the mesh.

5. Hold the mould at a slight angle and allow the excess water to drain. I usually tip it until water stops dripping from one corner.

6. Carefully remove the deckle.

7. Turn the mould upside down onto the couching material. I use a piece of cotton fabric laid over an old wool blanket.

8. Press gently over the back of the mould with a sponge to absorb as much water as possible.

9. Carefully lift the mould away, leaving the wet sheet on the cotton.

10. Hang the cotton up to dry with the paper still attached.

Optional

There are many different ways to finish handmade paper.

At this stage you can stack multiple sheets between layers of felt, cotton or wool blankets and press them under weights or in a paper press. This removes more water, helps flatten the sheets and produces a smoother finish. I deliberately didn't press the paper shown in my photos because I liked the texture left by the printed mesh.

Find me elsewhere

🌐 https://flitchcreative.co.uk
📸 https://instagram.com/flitch.creative
☕ https://buymeacoffee.com/flitchcreative

If you print this model, I'd love to see it! Upload a Make on Printables or tag @flitch.creative on Instagram.

Happy making!