Parametric Handmade Paper Mould & Deckle – Custom Watermarks (Fusion 360)

Parametric Handmade Paper Mould & Deckle

Watermark Edition with Stainless Steel Mesh

Welcome to Version 3 of my parametric handmade paper mould & deckle system.

This version builds on my stainless steel mesh edition by allowing you to create your own custom watermarks directly within the mould.

Whether you'd like to add your initials, a logo, simple artwork, pattern or text, this version makes it possible to personalise your handmade paper.

The mould is still fully parametric, so you can generate almost any paper size by editing the User Parameters in the included Fusion 360 file.

If you don't use Fusion 360, I've also included a simple method for creating watermarks directly in your slicer using the supplied STL files.

Included Sizes

Included with this download are the following paper sizes:

• Open Press Square (Paper Size 70 × 70 mm)

• Open Press Rectangle (Paper Size 70 × 140 mm)

• A6

• A5

• Bambu A1 Mini Large Square (Paper Size 135 × 135 mm)

• Bambu A1 Large Square (Paper Size 210 × 210 mm)

Because the model is fully parametric, you can generate almost any size you like.

Option 1 - Create a Watermark in Fusion 360

The included Fusion 360 file is fully parametric, allowing you to generate almost any paper size by simply editing the User Parameters.

Step 1 - Create Your Paper Size

Open the Fusion 360 source file, go to 'Modify', then 'Change Parameters' by entering the frame width and height, which should each be 40 mm larger than your desired paper size.

The mould and deckle will automatically update.

Step 2 - Remove the Sample Watermark

I've included a sample watermark simply to demonstrate how the system works.

Please note that the sample watermark is not mirrored. I discovered this after finalising the files. If you're creating a watermark containing text or an asymmetrical logo, it should be mirrored (reversed) before printing so that it reads correctly in the finished sheet of paper.

Delete the sample body before creating your own design.

Step 3 - Create Your Watermark

In the Browser, expand Construction and select the construction plane which is the watermark layer.

I've already positioned this plane at the correct height.

Create a new sketch on the Watermark Layer and draw whatever you'd like as your watermark. 

It could be:

• Text

• Initials

• A logo

• Simple artwork

• Geometric patterns

If your design contains text or an asymmetrical logo, remember to mirror (reverse) it before extruding. Traditional papermaking moulds use reversed watermarks so the finished watermark reads correctly when viewed in the finished sheet.

Finish the sketch and extrude it by 3 mm.

Your mould is now ready to export and print.

Option 2 - Create a Watermark in Your Slicer

You can personalise any of the included STL files directly in your slicer. I use Bambu Studio, so I'll give a very simple run-through of how I do it. Other slicers will have similar tools, although the workflow may be slightly different.

Using Text

1. Open one of the supplied mould STL files.

2. Select Text Shape (or press T).

3. Type your text.

4. Choose your font.

5. Mirror the text horizontally before printing so it reads correctly in the finished paper.

6. Adjust the size, position and rotation.

7. Set the Thickness to 3 mm.

8. Position the text where you'd like your watermark to appear.

9. Slice and print as normal.

Using Another STL

You can also use another 3D model as your watermark.

1. Select Add (⌘ + I on Mac).

2. Import an STL of the logo, icon or artwork you'd like to use.

3. If your design isn't symmetrical, remember to mirror it before printing.

4. Position and scale it where you'd like it.

5. Make sure it is 3 mm thick.

6. Slice

Watermark Height & Pause Layer

The watermark sits on the print bed and has the mesh embedded within it.

My slicing settings are:

• 0.4 mm nozzle

• 0.20 mm layer height

• Pause after 2 layers (0.40 mm)

At the pause, I place the stainless steel mesh onto the print before continuing.

Because the watermark sits below the mesh, increasing the pause height should position the mesh higher within the mould and create a deeper watermark.

I haven't experimented with this yet, but I'd love to hear your results if you do!

Choosing the Stainless Steel Mesh

I'd recommend using the thinnest woven stainless steel mesh you can find. It really does need to be very fine for this method to work well.

The thinner the mesh, the easier it is for the printer to embed it into the frame.

When cutting the mesh to fit the mould, I simply use a pair of large kitchen scissors.

As a general guide, I cut the mesh around 14–25 mm larger than the finished paper size. I aim for 20mm, but it can be bigger, smaller, wonky etc.

Printing

I recommend using a 0.4 mm nozzle.

During my testing on my Bambu Lab H2D, a 0.2 mm nozzle clogged almost immediately when it contacted the mesh. Twice. I decided that was enough.

A 0.4 mm nozzle has worked reliably for me.

I also print using the printer's Slow speed preset while the mesh is being embedded.

Once several solid layers have been printed over the mesh, I increase the print speed for the rest of the print.

How I Embed the Mesh - Video now on my Instagram! (Scroll down for details)

After trying so many methods, this is what now works for me.

When slicing in Bambu Studio, I add a pause after 2 layers.

When the printer pauses, I lay the stainless steel mesh onto the printed mould.

I use a few small magnets to pull it flat.

Once I'm happy with its position, I secure it using pieces of Kapton (polyimide) tape.

I mainly tape:

• The corners

• Any loose wires

• Any edges that lift

• Then a few random places around the outside

I've included photos showing exactly how I do this.

I try to leave small gaps around the outside so the PLA can flow through the mesh and lock it firmly into the frame.

As soon as the printer has completed a few loops around the inner edge, I remove the magnets straight away.

Positioning the Print

If you're printing one of the smaller moulds, I'd recommend placing it towards the front of the build plate.

This is especially useful on enclosed printers like my Bambu Lab H2D.

You'll be reaching in to:

• Position the mesh

• Place the magnets

• Apply the tape

• Remove the magnets

Having the mould at the front makes all of this much easier.

If you're printing the deckle at the same time, place the mould at the front and the deckle behind it.

Trust me...

Print the Mould & Deckle Separately

I'd also recommend printing the mould and deckle separately.

The deckle is an easy print.

The mould is where all the excitement happens... and possibly the failures!

If something goes wrong while embedding the mesh, you'll only need to reprint the mould rather than both parts.

Expect a Bit of Trial & Error

I've had plenty of failed prints while developing this.

I've had my hand clipped by the printer while removing magnets.

I've had tape lift.

I've had mesh move.

I've paused countless prints.

I've definitely had a few arguments with my printers.

I pretty much get successful prints every time now, but my hand still hovers over the pause button during those first few layers.

Sometimes the nozzle catches the Kapton tape and it gets a little "mushed up".

Usually the following layers flatten everything back down.

I normally keep an eye on those first few layers and perform a little tape surgery if needed.

One Thing That Didn't Work

I also experimented with creating a shallow recess in Fusion 360 for the mesh to sit inside.

It didn't work.

Unfortunately, I found the plastic didn't grip the mesh nearly as well.

For me, the strongest results came from allowing the nozzle to print directly onto the mesh.

Please Read

This method involves printing directly onto stainless steel mesh.

It has worked really well for me, but I honestly have no idea whether it's good for your printer or your nozzles.

Please try it at your own risk.

Keep an eye on the first few layers.

Be ready to pause the print if something doesn't look right.

Making Paper

I've recycled all sorts of scraps with this, including:

• Envelopes

• Scraps

• Packaging

• Junk mail

• Coloured paper

• Receipts

• Old prints

Experiment with whatever you have.

Basic Instructions

There are lots of different techniques for making handmade paper, but this is the simple method I use.

1. Fill a container with water and add your prepared paper pulp.

2. Place the deckle on top of the mould and hold them firmly together.

3. Dip the mould and deckle into the pulp at a slight angle, then lift them out in one smooth motion.

4. Gently shake the mould from side to side and front to back to help the fibres settle evenly.

5. Hold the mould at a slight angle until the excess water drains away.

6. Carefully remove the deckle.

7. Turn the mould onto your couching material. I use a piece of cotton fabric laid over an old wool blanket.

8. Press gently over the back of the mould with a sponge to remove as much water as possible.

9. Carefully lift the mould away, leaving the wet sheet on the fabric.

10. Hang the fabric up to dry with the paper still attached.

Optional

There are lots of different ways to finish handmade paper.

At this stage you can stack multiple sheets between layers of felt, cotton or wool blankets and press them under weights or in a paper press.

This removes more water, helps flatten the sheets and produces a smoother finish.

Find me elsewhere

🌐 https://flitchcreative.co.uk
📸 https://instagram.com/flitch.creative
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If you print this model, I'd love to see it! Upload a Make on Printables or tag @flitch.creative on Instagram.

Happy making!