Power Rangers Time Force Quantum Defender

Print Settings

• Wall loops: 2

• Layer Height: 0.2mm

• Infill: 3%

• Support: Normal

This models is very different from the original prop. The original prop is much wider at the back of the dino head, and slims down a lot towards the nose. That wouldn't work for this prop, as it's designed to be modular. The area where the sword is shown to come from would be far too skinny to allow for that modularity. So I made the overall head skinnier with a shallower angle, to maintain the overall look of the prop, and make the wider sword area feel more natural to the overall design

Overall, everything is scaled around the blaster version first. Which ends up being somewhere between the size of the toy and prop, since they swap between them in the show. The size of the blaster changes depending on the reference image. As such, the sword version won't be as large/long as the prop. In the show, the dino head for the sword version is much larger than the blaster version on the original props.

Printing Instructions

You can orient the parts pretty much however you want. I typically go for which ever way requires the least amount of support. I would also recommend blocking support from being printed in the areas for the magnets. It shouldn't be needed, and it could be a pain to remove from the inside of the top_jaw. You'll need to print 6 of the pins for aligning the pieces. 

I'm uploading a split and non split version of the top_jaw. I recommend using the split version for FDM printing. Due to the detail on the side, and the overall shape of the model, I got the best results printing the models split rather than the full model. 

The barrel and bottom_jaw are held in place with magnets, they aren't attached to the main body of the blaster in any way. So swinging the blaster around too much may make them come loose. Just be mindful of that. You're free print multiple of the bottom_jaw and fix that and the barrel to the inner_snout, and have another for the sword configuration. Since the removable middle section can be slid in and out of place.

The area where the handles slide into place is loose. You'll need to pack the handles with a little bit of painters tape. The idea is to not make the connection too tight to allow for different finishing processes. I may dial that in more at a later date.

Full static models available for scaling.

Assembly

All links are non-affiliate

Parts list:

• Up to 38 20x5x2mm Neodymium bar magnets

  • Personally I'm only using 24 magnets

  • They're used to keep the middle section and place, and allow for the barrel and bottom jaw to be removable.

  • More magnets means a stronger connection, but also more weight.

• 5/16th wooden dowel or threaded rod cut to ~30 in (~766 mm)

  • Always bevel and sand your wooden dowels

  • If you want this to be con safe, use a wooden dowel

Length of sword version: ~33 in (~837 mm)

Length of blaster version: ~10 in (~264 mm)