1/4 Scale Coded Sterling "Y-10" Mini Siren

DISCLAIMER

The information provided here is offered on an AS-IS basis only. While I have efforted to make this helpful to you, I do not offer any warranty or guarantee of any kind regarding any aspect of this information. The information below may be subject to change without notice. The full risks as to the use of this information are assumed solely by the model builder. 

This model uses 120 volts AC. 120 AC is not 12 volts DC. It will kill you just as fast as anything higher if you get across it the wrong way. Use common sense... no exposed wiring and don't touch anything motor related when it's running. You never know if your scrapped ebay motor has a fault in it.

This can be printed on smaller printers (220x220)

To Assemble this model you will need get these or equivalent.

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHPPD5W - Solenoid

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FT9WGSY9/ - low force .187 microswitch for governor mechanism

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6XB2MJ - uxcell 6mm to 8mm coupler

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P82C71Q - uxcell 8mm to 8mm coupler

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096SNWXK2 - 6mm D shaft

- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PPH3Z2 - 6mm bearing

- M2, 3, and 4 bolts

- 7/16" nuts (48) for inserting into the brake wheel - commodity item at any hardware store

- Return spring for the brake lever

- LG EAU51230508 Microwave AC Ventilation Fan - Can found on ebay

- 10uF run capacitor for the motor

- optional time delay relay and associated support hardware for the coding mechanism

Please watch the below video as seeing is better than reading

There are calibration pieces that can be printed so you can you set your X-Y hole compensation settings in your slicer before committing to entire pieces.

The brake shaft should turn freely in the channel it goes into. There's a calibration piece for that too.

The 48 nuts go into the holes in the brake wheel and adds weight for longer spindown. I use a soldering iron to melt and collapse the walls between the nuts to collapse the walls and lock the nuts in place.

The 16 port side with the brake uses a combination press fit and coupler fit to work.

• the back half of the brake wheel is press fit, the front half accepts the coupler

• the back half of the 16 port impeller accepts the coupler, the front half is press fit

To install it on the motor shaft you need to,

(1) Install the brake housing and brake band first on the backing plate. The housing has holes in it that line up with the M3 mounting screws so you can insert a tool and tighten them down

(2) Press the 8mm to 6mm coupler into the brake wheel. turn all four set screws in before pressing and then back them out when putting on the shaft. Line the set screws up with the holes in the piece

(3) Push the brake wheel and coupler assembly onto the shaft. It will not need a major amount of force to go on. Use the tolerance tools to set your X-Y hole comp so you don't waste 150 grams of material because your 8mm hole is too small. 

(4) Tighten down the set screws on the brake side of the coupler. this locks it on the shaft.

(5) Take piece of 6mm D-shaft and cut a section 115mm long. 

(6) Insert that piece into the 6mm open end of the shaft coupler and tighten down the set screws. Tighten so the other end doesn't wobble (imprtant!). 

(7) the 16 port impeller will push onto the D shaft and then but up against the brake wheel. Again, use your tolerance tool so it dosen't take the world to push it on.

(8) the governor then installs on the D shaft and goes up to the end of the impeller

(9) the 16 port chopper then get installed. the 6mm bearing installs in the pocket on the end and the cap screwed on to hold it in place. D shaft end goes into the bearing

The 8 port side is much simpler.....

(1) Screw all the way in all 4 set screws on the 8mm to 8mm coupler.

(2) Push the coupler into the impeller, line up the screws with the holes in the piece.

(3) Back all 4 screws out in the coupler

(4) Install on the shaft and tighten down the back set of screws to lock it on the shaft. the front set stays out and will lock the coupler on the shaft

** watch this space for more info as needed **