Wolf Tooth ReMote dropbar dropper lever mount - improved

The stock Wolf Tooth dropbar dropper lever is great... except for the clamp, which has two huge barrel nuts right where your hand goes when in the drops! So I designed this much lower-profile clamp and lever body mount to address this issue. This redesigned clamp also allows for the use of a ferrule for the cable housing.

Two variations of the clamp piece are provided, as different bars may want slightly different designs; the only difference is that the alternate version has a slightly smaller gap between the forward part of the clamp and the main body.

Tested with the following settings:

• Filament: PETG-CF

• Walls: 4

• Infill: 30% (Gyroid)

Supports, speeds, flow ratios are determined by your printer settings - choose what you know works best for the filament.  The pictured clamp was printed in Elegoo PETG-CF on an imperfectly calibrated Qidi Q2, so your print quality may be better than mine.

Print orientation for the lever main mount should be with the stud facing up, as this gives the best dimensional tolerances. Based on my testing and use, this should be plenty strong, even though the layer lines are parallel to the force of the dropper lever. You can experiment with orientations, though.

Heat insert and screw dimensions:

• Clamp screw holes: M2 (3.2 mm OD, 3mm long)

• Lever mount stud: M3 (4.5 mm OD, 3.5 mm long)

• Rear screws (closest to the cable): M2 x ~4 mm; long enough to fully clamp the pieces together, short enough to bottom out, with a head about 3.5 mm in diameter 

• Front screws: M2 x  ~8 mm; long enough to bridge the air gap between clamp band and main body, but short enough to not bottom out.

• Stud screw: M3 x ~4 mm, preferably with a wider head. The washer from the original clamp can be reused here, or if you don't have it, an appropriately size washer works fine.

The clamp will slip on naked bars, even with carbon paste, so you should put one layer of electrical tape between the bar and the clamp! This provides sufficient friction and the clamp shouldn't budge.

For assembly after putting in all the heat inserts:

1. Screw in the rear screws to clamp the band to the main body. They should be flush together (see pictures)

2. Mount the lever body to the stud, fasten with the M3 screw (don't forget the washer!)

3. Screw in the front clamp screws barely - just enough to hold them in place.

4. Put a single layer of electrical tape around the bar at the position the clamp will be and slide the clamp up and over the tape. Tighten the front clamp screws until the clamp holds fast; this shouldn't require more than ~2 Nm of torque and probably not even that.