Project Silverfish Eather Canister (with LED strip)

About the model

This model was designed in FreeCAD - FOSS (Free and Open-Source Software) 3D parametric modeler. FreeCAD offers tools to produce, export and edit solid, full-precision models, export them for 3D printing or CNC machining. Source file is available.

All parts are segregated by colors. Painting is optional. Requires glue and optionally soldering.

Length is 330mm, diameter in widest section is 128mm.

CAD preview

Render preview (Blender)

Feedback and support

Please report any issues you have with the model. I will be glad to help you if you have any questions. Also share your makes. Thanks you.

Variants

Model variants:

1. Prop - if you want simple prop with screw-on cap for bonus storage;

2. Desk lamp - if you want a prop with LED effects, powered from cable;

3. Portable lamp - if you want a prop with LED effects, powered from battery;

Shell and diffuser variants:

1. Plate 0 storage - if you chose Prop variant;

2. Plate 0 vase - if you have 0.6 mm nozzle;

3. Plate 0 normal - if you only have 0.4 mm nozzle;

Variant 1 - Prop

Overview

Printed parts

Plate 0 storage and plates with type A.

Sourced materials

Glue and optionally stuff for painting.

Assembly

Glue "crown" parts to "shell" part, aligned with notches on it.

(1) Take "star" parts and find the "crown" part that fits. It should be the "bottom" end of the model. Take 5 "pin" parts and glue them into "bottom crown" part.

(2) Glue "bottom star" part into "bottom crown" part. Align them with the fin on "bottom star" part and the notch on "bottom crown" part.

(1) Try inserting "beam" parts on "pin" parts gently to make sure they fit. Be careful if you use paint. Use a file to remove burrs or make "beam" parts smoother. Make sure they fit with both ends.

(2) Work with one part at a time. Apply glue (preferably NOT instant glue) to "beam" parts from one side. Insert "beam" parts on "pin" parts from glued side. Make sure there will be a gap of 16 mm (red arrow on the image below).

Glue "ring" part (smooth one) to the other "star" part. Align them with the fin on the "star" part and the notch on the "ring" part. Glue "pin" parts into "star" parts.

Make sure glue has dried up to avoid "beam" parts moving out of place.

(1) Align "star" half ("star", "ring" and "pins") with the other half with the fin on "star" and the notch on "crown". Be careful and make sure "pins" can be inserted into respective "beam" without excessive force. If not use a file on problematic "beam" parts.

(2) Apply glue to "beam" parts and "ring" part (preferably NOT instant glue). Glue both parts together. Aligned with mentioned fin and notch.

(1) Take the other "ring" ("top ring") part and glue it into "top star" part

(2) Take "shell storage top" (one with open bottom) and glue it from the top side (where the thread is). Take "shell storage bottom" (one with closed bottom) and glue it from the other side.

Glue "bottom cap" into "bottom star" part. Let the glue dry a bit and try screwing "top cap" on to the model. It should screw in without excessive force. Your model is ready.

Variant 2 - Desk lamp

Overview

Printed parts

Plate 0 normal or vase, and plates with type B.

Sourced materials

1. Glue and optionally stuff for painting.

2. ESP32 variant like "wemos mini" or "wroom-32";

3. Programmable 5V RGB LED strip (WS2812B) 2 meters of 96-100 leds/m cut to length in place;

4. Touch sensor (TTP223);

5. USB-C 5V power delivery capable socket;

6. 10 m2 8mm bolts;

7. 3A rated wires;

8. JST 3 pin male and female connectors;

9. Clamps for wires;

Prefer ESP32 without pins and install WLED on it before soldering for convenience. You can order 2 one meter LED strips and solder them.

Wiring

Assembly

Glue "crown" parts to "shell" part, aligned with notches on it.

(1) Take "star" parts and find the "crown" part that fits. It should be the "bottom" end of the model. Take 5 "pin" parts and glue them into "bottom crown" part.

(2) Glue "bottom star" part into "bottom crown" part. Align them with the fin on "bottom star" part and the notch on "bottom crown" part.

(1) Try inserting "beam" parts on "pin" parts gently to make sure they fit. Be careful if you use paint. Use a file to remove burrs or make "beam" parts smoother. Make sure they fit with both ends.

(2) Work with one part at a time. Apply glue (preferably NOT instant glue) to "beam" parts from one side. Insert "beam" parts on "pin" parts from glued side. Make sure there will be a gap of 16 mm (red arrow on the image below).

Glue "ring" part (smooth one) to the other "star" part. Align them with the fin on the "star" part and the notch on the "ring" part. Glue "pin" parts into "star" parts.

Make sure glue has dried up to avoid "beam" parts moving out of place.

(1) Align "star" half ("star", "ring" and "pins") with the other half with the fin on "star" and the notch on "crown". Be careful and make sure "pins" can be inserted into respective "beam" without excessive force. If not use a file on problematic "beam" parts.

(2) Apply glue to "beam" parts and "ring" part (preferably NOT instant glue). Glue both parts together. Aligned with mentioned fin and notch.

(3) Take the other "ring" ("top ring") part and glue it into "top star" part. Be careful to align it with holes for m2 bolts.

Glue both parts of "core" (top and bottom led tubes). Use both "cap" parts and "ring" parts on, to align "ring" parts. Glue "ring" parts, but do not glue "cap" parts.

Cap parts are different, all tho not by much. Slightly taller one, with bigger cut, is the top one. Swapping them makes no visible difference.

Usually LED strips come with adhesive layer. Try wrapping the strip around the core without pealing protective film off to confirm it into shape. Solder both one meter strips if needed.

Usually LED strips come with JST connectors and possibly with additional power wires. Your strip should have JST connector on one side (top end) and power connector (power wires that can be clamped later) on the other (bottom end). Your strip will power ESP32 through JST connector. Solder them on/off as needed.

ATTENTION! Be careful to solder JST connector to the start of the strip, as it has a direction indicated by arrows. Solder power wires to the end.

Wrap LED strip around the "core tube", so that both ends touch "ring" parts. Be careful to spread the strip evenly in case you chose one meter strip.

Glue "cap charging port" part into "bottom cap".

At this point you will end up with "cap" parts and the almost assembled model.

Carefully put "diffuser" in between "cap" parts of the core. JST connector and power connector should peek from both ends slightly.

Solder 3 wires of length 2-3 cm to sensors VCC, GND and I/O connections. Solder other end to ESP32 3V, GND, D2 respectively.

• VCC to 3V;

• GND to GND;

• I/O to D2;

Solder JST connector of length 5-6 cm  VCC, GND, DIN to ESP 32 VCC, GND, D13. You should be able to connect ESP32 to LED strip with "cap" part laying near it, for convenience. 

• VCC to VIN;

• GND to GND;

• DIN to D13;

Do not glue things before testing if it works.

Solder 2 wires of length 5-6 cm (rated to 3A) to USB-C socket with clamps at their ends. You should be able to connect USB-C socket to LED strip with "cap" part laying near it, for convenience.

Do not glue things before testing if it works.

You must connect to ESP32 and setup WLED app. Set current limit to 1A, LED count accordingly to your strip, data GPIO to 13, button GPIO to 2, button mode to "push inverted". Check the output of USB-C socket, it must be 5-5.2V. Check wiring again, make sure everything is connected according to the scheme.

Power the device and, if nothing looks breaks, play with different WLED effects. When you are done testing your setup cover indicator LEDs on the sensor and the USB-C socket with either thick black sharpie or paint. You do not want them to passively illuminate your model.

Variant 3 - Portable lamp (WIP)

Overview

Printed parts

Plate 0 normal or vase, and plates with type B. In the future there will be plates with type C. The only part that needs to change is "cap charging port" (add a notch for 3 position switch).

Sourced materials

1. Glue and optionally stuff for painting.

2. ESP32 variant like "wemos mini" or "wroom-32";

3. Programmable 5V RGB LED strip (WS2812B) 2 meters of 96-100 leds/m cut to length in place;

4. Touch sensor (TTP223);

5. USB-C 5V power delivery capable socket;

6. 1-3 lithium cells 18650;

7. Li-Po charger and protector for 1S configuration rated for 3A;

8. Boost DC-DC converter rated for 5V 3A (variable voltage regulation is acceptable);

9. 3 way switch;

10. 10 m2 8mm bolts;

11. 3A rated wires;

12. JST 3 pin male and female connectors;

13. Clamps for wires;

Prefer ESP32 without pins and install WLED on it before soldering for convenience. You can order 2 one meter LED strips and solder them.

Wiring

The idea is to connect batteries in parallel to increase the overall capacity. Charger with built-in protection (discharge, overcharge, load) will charge cells and provide output in range of 3.2V to 4.2V. Booster converter boosts voltage to 5V for LED strip and ESP32 (sensor is powered from 3V output from ESP32).

Switch provides 3 modes of operation:

1. powered from cable;

2. powered from battery;

3. charging battery;

This is required because charging modules typically can not  handle simultaneous charging and usage.

Assembly

The only difference from Desk Lamp variant - "cap charger port" part with insert for the switch. You can make Desk Lamp variant and later upgrade it to Portable Lamp variant with new "bottom cap". If possible - mod "cap charger port" to support your 3 positional switch.

Other parts

There are also stand for the model and belt holder parts. You should remove them from plates if you wish to avoid printing them.