Neoteck Dial Gauge Snap on Mount for Ender 5 MAX

Neoteck Dial Gauge Snap on Mount for manual bed leveling

Prints in PLA as 2 parts without support for better part stability and quality.
When slicing make sure to set wall loops to 4 or more.

The 2 pieces are held together by two M4 screws and nuts.

Neoteck Digital Indicator 0.01/0.0005'' 25.4mm is held via snap fit. Other Dial gauges will fit too, most of them have the same form factor.

Preparation:
The manual bed leveling process requires that you already modded your printer with rubber stand offs and knobs to tighten or loosen the 4 mounting points. The original Creality spacers are hard and don't let the bed warp into all directions increasing the warping. You need 4x or 8x 16mm silicone spacers (don't use springs), they are quite common on Amazon. I also got generic M4 knobs. With 4 spacers you can use original screws, with 8 you use the longer screws that usually come with knobs.
If you add the rubber spacers, you should also ground your bed otherwise there is electrocution risk as the bed wouldn't be grounded to the frame anymore (guide for that here: https://e5mdocumentation.kinsta.cloud/?page_id=47)

Note about Ender 5 MAX automatic Bed Leveling:
The standard setup bed leveling is done at the WRONG 45° temperature. When you do a print make sure to tick the "calibration" option ON THE PRINTER (see pic), this will level your bed at the print temp of 60°. The bed keeps warping for about the first 10-20min, pre-heating bed helps, but the biggest help is calibrating the bed at print temperature of 60° and you will get good first layers. For most of my prints I pre-heat the bed 5 min and then calibrate. The cool plate epoxy that comes withe Ender5 Max has bad adhesion. Replace it with "ANYCUBIC PEI Spring Steel ANYCUBIC Kobra 3" Max or similar, you can get it on Amazon. During the first print, make sure to adjust your Z-offset in advanced options. Autoleveling is good, but I have to set my Z-Offset to -0.75 to get a perfect first layer. Once you set it, you can leave it for about 100 prints or so (your nozzle will wear out overtime and you will need to adjust the Z-offset again or replace nozzle.

How to use / Steps to bed level:

1. Warm up the bed to print temp, for example 60°

2. Press "home" button Ender 5 Max
   This will lock motors, home to 0.0, measure distance to bed and place nozzle in the middle of the bed.

3. Press "unlock motor" button and move toolhead on the rail all the way to the right or left out of the way

4. Insert Neoteck Dial into the mount

5. Attach the mount onto the x-gantry. It snaps on, you can slightly bend it open with the little grip tab.

6. Move the dial to the center of the bed, turn dial on & zero out

7. Move dial to each corner, right above the mounting points

8. Adjust knobs/screws so that the 4 mounting spots are at the same level as the center of the bed.

9. Remove the mount

10. Start a new bed mesh / auto leveling manually or by starting a new print with "calibration"

11. Check bed mesh via Creality slicer/IP login

12. Adjust as needed

You don't need to be super exact. You "can" dial in within 0.01 to 0.02 but the warping of the bed will throw it off somewhat anyway, so doing roughly within 0.05 or even 0.1 is enough. The normal auto leveling will compensate for the rest. If you have a bed mesh ranging from -0.25 to 0.6 or so, your prints will be completely fine, autoleveling will compensate for it.