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SOSS 103 Hinge Router Templates — zdjęcie 1
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SOSS 103 Hinge Router Templates

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To route a mortise for a SOSS 103 hinge

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This is a set of templates to route mortises for a SOSS 103 hinge.  I also include 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and 1mm shims if you overshoot the depth of the outer mortise.

The basics:
  • There are 2 templates:

    • an outer template which you use first (depth of 7/32").  If you go too far, 3d print the shims.

    • and an inner template to route the deeper part of the mortise (depth of 5/8")

  • Both templates have legs that are designed to be clamped to the edge of a work piece.  The template design assumes the hinge is installed on the edge on both sides.  You may need to remove a leg if your hinge is going into a larger work piece.  You can also add a shim behind a leg if they are too big.

  • The template is designed to be used one way - there is a hinge side.  The top protrudes more on the hinge side.

  • You should customize this to the thickness of your work pieces.  You have 2 parameters:

    • materialThickness - mine were a little thicker than 1-1/16".  Yours will likely be thinner.

    • hingeInset - a used 4mm, but SOSS recommends a maximum of 1/8" (3.175mm)

To Customize (either):
  • Download the Fusion 360 file

  • Or you can do this by clicking the 'Customize' button online on my post on MakerWorld.

Routing:
  • You need a flush-trim router bit smaller than the width of the mortice, which is only ½".  I used this 3/8" flush trim router bit.

  • Before routing, you need to drill a hole in the center of the mortice.  It should be larger than the router bit but of course smaller than the mortice width.  You drill to the full depth (5/8").  This way you can start routing inside the hole.  Make sure the router bit is centered in that hole and not in contact with the wood when starting it.  I think I had used a 7/16" drill bit.

To get accuracy, I added center lines:

  • Mark a center line with a mechanical pencil on both work pieces.

  • Line up the center line with the center lines on the bottom of the legs of the template, and/or the center mark on the template where the router bit bearing rides.

Printing:
  • no supports needed.  Print the templates with the top side down.

  • I recommend 4 wall loops - making the part stronger and less likely to burn through where the bearing rides.

  • I printed in black PLA .. but

    • I recommend a lighter color.  It's hard to see the center lines.  You can also mark the center lines with a black pen to make it easier to line up.

    • PETG would hold up better to a hot bearing, but I didn't have a problem with PLA.  If the router bit bearing is wearing, shoot some WD-40 in it.

 

This template worked really well for me and produces a nice tight fit.  But it is still a challenge to get all the steps right.  Make sure to practice on some scrap first and dial it in.

Tagi