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Shotscope H4 TPU protective case — zdjęcie 1
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Shotscope H4 TPU protective case

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Secure TPU case for Shotscope H4 golf GPS with charger cutout.

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Printables
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Creative Commons — Attribution

Are you tired of the insecure magnetic holder and the possibility of the H4 falling out?  Do you have to carry it securely in your pocket and fumble around tagging your clubs?  Is it tiring to pull it out of the magnetic holder and charge it?
This model solves some of those problems and creates a lot more (printing it, see below).

Initially designed to solve the problems above.  I created some prototypes with PETG as you can see in the images below.  Unfortunately, most plastics are too brittle and the case is too thin to withstand getting the H4 in and out.  Switched to TPU and had to beef up the lip holding the H4 because it was too flexible to hold the H4 securely. 

In addition, printing correctly was tough because supports would be needed, however I only have a 1 material printer.  Ideally, supports would be printed in a stiff PLA material with a multi-material printer.  TPU supports would were too flexible when I tried the tree supports and I saw rocking of the part when printing.  I've tried printing at a 45degree angle I saw people use for TPU shoes (terrible surface finish).  Successful printing upside down with hex supports for rigidity. Also, the .25mm Phaetus Conch hotend I was using was leaking TPU from between the heat break ruining the print and my sanity.

Hopefully, this can shave a couple strokes off your game.

Assembling:

Snug fit, probably won't work with a stiffer material even if you could put the H4 in without breaking the print. 

You will need to remove the clip from your old H4 magnetic holder.  Under the clip it is retained by a plastic tab on the back of the holder.  Pull it away from the back of the holder and pull the clip up through the slot at the top.  When putting the clip on the TPU print it isn't as secure because the TPU is too flexible to restrict the clip from moving slightly and the cutout for the charger removes material from the back.  I created a larger retention tab for it.  It's more solid once the H4 has been inserted

Settings:
I'm only including the settings I've changed. Obviously run calibration on your own machine & filament. 
Printed upside down with the back of the model facing up. This puts all the ugly support inside the print that will be covered up by the H4.

Flashforge AD5 with enclosure .4mm nozzle. Not sure enclosure is needed.


Creality HP TPU white (no idea of the durometer rating and it's not on their website; if I had to guess it would be "softish".  Somewhere I have it as 95A? No idea.)

Filament setting

value

flow ratio

.96

pressure advance

.04

nozzle temp first layer

220c

nozzle temp other layers

212c

plate temp first layer (textured pei)

40c

plate temp other layers

40c

max volumetric speed

3.2mm^3/s

no cooling for the first

1 layers

part cooling 

100% for everything else

retraction length

.95mm

retraction speed

30mm/s (didn't test this one.  it just worked ok.)

Base using default .12mm Fine Flashforge settings. Settings which may not even effect the print have a ? in the name.  I would say the support options are probably most critical for a good print and easy removal. I also added 2 skirt loops because of the trauma from the leaking hotend.

Process setting

value

Quality

avoid crossing walls (?)

true

detect overhang walls (?)

true

Strength

wall loops (remove voids I saw between infill and walls)

3

detect thin walls  (?)

true

sparse infill density

40%

sparse infill pattern

Gyroid

Internal solid infill pattern (?)

Concentric

Speeds

first layer

15mm/s

outer wall

15mm/s

all other layer print speeds (not travel speeds)

60mm/s

travel 

500mm/s

Support

Enable support

true

Type

Normal(auto)

Style

Default(grid)

on build plate only (?)

true

top z distance

.2mm

bottom z distance

.2mm

base pattern

Honeycomb

base pattern spacing

2mm

Tagi