AnoleX 4030 M6 Fixture Plate 20x20 pattern

For the AnoleX 4030-Evo Ultra 2 cnc mill.

This is a 290x290x20mm fixture plate which bolts on to the stock machine table, with a 20x20mm M6 threaded hole grid (modeled at the minor dia. 5mm) compatible with SMW products. There is an 8mm bore, 8mm deep in the back/left corner for probing/indicating the plate's pattern and position easily. 

Needs 30x M6x20mm SHCS for mounting.

The spacing and position of the mounting Cbores is to center the plate in the Y axis working area, so it can be mounted and fully faced with a 6mm endmill. Additionally, this allows for the plate to be made on the machine itself with relative ease. I recommend buying 300x300x20 or similar, and doing a minimal top face clean up, leaving the bottom side plain stock surface.

For order of operations: Firstly make sure you have adjusted your machine table as flat as you can, ideally better than .1mm across full x and y. To do this, see NotAGunTuber's video where he shows the process of loosening the table mounting brackets at the linear guides and indicating them flat to each other, as well as adjusting the center chip-guard strip. You can skip this, as facing the fixture plate in-place will true up the surface, but I strongly advise you adjust your machine's frame and table properly first.

Once your table is already adjusted (or not), then simply mount the stock onto a flattened spoilboard of any kind with tape/glue/tape, and machine the outer profile, mounting counterbores, 8mm locator bore, M6 grid, skim the face minimally, and deburr - aim for at least 6.2ø x 90° csk on the M6 holes so you can use threaded locating pins that center on the csk, similar to the SMW fixturing pins. I also have a model for somewhat improved pins published here.

Then, dismount the part, deburr the backside thoroughly, and then mount to the bare table and take a final facing skim pass, and done. Ideally facing should be done with a 8mm or 6mm 3 flute coated endmill with corner rads (.2mm ideally) for best results. A 1 flute coated endmill, or a PCD endmill from AliExpress would be a good option too. Using an insert mill/flycutter may develop too much force/tool pressure and can push away the Z assembly during cutting, leading to a lack of flatness. Highly recommend use of MQL or spraying the plate with WD-40 for final facing pass for best finish.

Otherwise, having it made by JLC CNC or PCBway is an option too.

For help or advice, see the Discord link in my profile.