Core One INDX FE Chamber LED Light Bar Fix

I had an alternative idea for mounting the CoreOne chamber light in the original position with INDX Founders Edition. The only thing stopping us from mounting the light bar in the original position is the lack of threads. The light bar originally mounted to outside of the frame with through-holes in the light bar and threads in the frame. The new INDX dock mounting panel needed to use those threaded holes in the frame, so the light bar got evicted from that location. Fortunately for us, the light bar physically fits on the back side of the frame. Some people have attached it with double-sided tape and others with magnets, but I wanted a more permanent solution. The easy solution would be to just use a longer screw and put a nut on the back side to hold the light bar in place. Unforuntaely, due to the V-shape of the light bar, you cannot get access to hold the nut. That's where I came up with the idea to design and print a part that holds a nut for you.

 Unfortunately, I did not take photos of when I installed this mod on my printer, but I believe it's fairly straight forward and I should be able to describe how to do it.

Step 1: Print the parts. I recommend printing out of something higher temp than PLA. I used PCTG but I'm PETG or PC-CF would work fine as well.

Step 2: Look through your spare hardware and find the following hardware:

     Qty. 2 - M3 Square Nuts (M3nS)

     Qty. 2 - M3x8 or M3x10 Screws w/ low-profile heads (M3x8rT or M3x10rT)

Step 3: Run the build plate all the way down to the bottom of the printer so you'll have plenty of room to work. Then undock your nozzles and drape them off to the side of your printer.

Step 4: Remove the two plastic rivets holding the light bar in and carefully let the light bar hang down. Next remove the two lower M3x4rT screws holding the INDX tooldock to the frame. The rivets and screws removed in this step can be added to your spares, they will not be reused. I also needed to loosen the nozzle-seal-holder mounting screws to more easily get the light bar mounting holes aligned.

Step 4: Install one M3nS nut into each of the nut holders. Next insert the nut holders into the light bar and make sure you can thread in the M3x8 or M3x10 screws you sources earlier. Once confirmed, take it back apart, add a few drops of super glue between the nut holder, and the light bar and reinstall with the screws. This will ensure that the nut holders don't fall out of the light bar when getting it into position.

Step 5: In this step you have a few options. Option 1: Take an old M3 screw and run it into the lower tooldock holes and overtighten until the threads in the frame strip. Option 2: Take an 1/8" (or ~3mm) drill bit and drill the threads out of those lower two frame threaded holes. Option 3: You can probably get the screws to engage both the frame and the light bar nuts with the same screws but the light bar may never be completely tight.

Step 6: Take the light bar and rotate it until it is parallel with the left side wall of the printer and then rotate it up until it is horizontal and pointing towards the rear. You should now be able to rotate the light bar above the nozzle-seal-holders and towards the tooldock. This will be dependent on how much slack your light bar cable has in it. Mine has just enough slack but if yours doesn't you may need to try to pull some wire through the zip-ties to get more.

Step 7: This can be a little tricky but shine a light through the lower holes of the tooldock and try to align the light bar holes with them. This will give you an idea of how to hold the light bar when trying to insert the screws. Do one at a time to make it easier to align.

Step 8: Retighten your nozzle-seal-holders and enjoy being able to see your first layer!