Framework 12 Monitor Case

       Hello, I have created a nice little case that fits the Framework 12 Mainboard and a Raspberry Pi 4. This design was originally just meant for a Raspberry Pi 4, but it seemed I had just enough room for the Mainboard as well.

Bill of Materials are as follows:

• M3 Heat Inserts - x8

• M2 Heat Inserts (optional if using original screws) - x5

• M3x8 Screws - x4

• M3x10 Screws - x4

• M3x14 Screws & Nuts (for fan) - x4

• M2x5 (For Pi4) - x2

• Ballpoint Pen Spring (for power button)

• 10mm Quick Connect Barrel Plug

• 7" LCD Monitor (There are many, but pick the one that has the four screw hole tabs)

• Various angle adapters for the HDMI/Type-C/USB ports.

This is assuming you have either the Framework 12 Mainboard or a Raspberry Pi 4 already in hand. Screw lengths are just the minimum needed, most of mine was scrapped from other things.

File Update 9/10:

Body now has a better shroud to direct the cooling up top. The insert for the barrel plug had been adjusted to fit more snug.

Printing

Everything should be split and ready for smaller build plate, but I have also included whole variations for those that want a cleaner look with a bigger printer. The Core One can print the body and front frame as whole parts. The body may be a bit tricky with supports, you will have to play with the support painter to avoid supports generating outside the print area. I found using Snug supports will help in the case of the full body. Both parts already kiss the limits of the Core One, but clearance is clearance. Body and frame are printed face-down.

My settings for this build was 2 perimeters, 15% Gyroid infill. PLA works fine. The body and frame will take about half a spool of filament, maybe less if you can trust bridging between supported ends.

Assembly

If you opted to split the model, glue all the halves together with the provided pins. 2 pins for each part, all named accordingly.

Start by installing the heat inserts, 4 on the front frame, and 4 more on the back body.

Install the barrel plug, press fit.

Next, install the LCD Panel to the LCD Frame. Cut the bottom screw tabs off, we only need the top ones. Place it in the bottom first, the LCD panel should catch, then secure the top with the provided M4 screws from the LCD kit. Self tapped, so give it some effort, but not too tight.

Grab the Front Frame and power button parts. Get a pen spring, any should work. Insert the spring into the power button first, it will be a tight fit. Slide the button in the front frame, and take the other end of the spring, with tweezers, and insert it in the slot below. this should move freely. Place the power button link in the slot, rounded end out. This should let you press the power button. I do not have a mainboard to test, but you can scale down the axis if it needs to be longer or shorter.

Please just look at it, this is very cool and I am stoked that I got this working like it does.

Next you can install the electronics, Starting with the Pi 4, if you have one. You can secure the Pi 4 with two M2 screws. I have a bunch of similar sized screws that work, like battery door screws would work if you're scrappy. The new model has extra room in front of the IO of the Pi, but you will still need some kind of angle adapters to get it all connected.

40mm fan over here

Now here's where I would put my Framework 12 Mainboard

All secured using push pins, assuming you have removed the screws. I did include pins with M2 insert holes in case you want to keep the screws. This was done for ease of use, but let me know if it is not. The wide pin at the lower right is for holding the chassis switch down, if that is actually needed.

Access to the Left for the expansion cards. The right side will be used for internal connections for power and/or a USB-C hub.

The LCD frame snaps in the Front Frame. There will be access to the IO ports, you will need angle adapters like so:

Pay attention at the top, there are holes that line up with the threaded inserts. This is to secure the position of the angle. Use longer screws if you need. 

Last Step, Secure the back panel. The model has the barrel plug hole right at the split, this is in case you want to opt for a pass-through cable instead. I can make edits later to accommodate for variations. The panel mount was for connection a HDMI out. holes are 27mm apart, but that can also be changed.

Finished Assembly

And you're all done! There are too many variations of angle cables out there to list, but you will need quite a few to get things connected. For the Pi, you will need an angle connector for the Type-C and Micro HDMI. For the Framework, you will need at least two Type-C angle connectors, and a hub of some kind to connect to video.

Please leave comments or concerns about my model and I will gladly get them fixed. I may make some edits later as I start using this more. Thank you and as always, happy printing!