Centauri Carbon 1 and 2 improved X Y gantry blocks for runice toothed idlers

New improved version of my runice idler gantry blocks! there are quite a lot of improvements and some drawbacks:

• Compatible with full Centauri / Carbon 1/2 lineup

• stiffer assembly

• one piece design

• less hardware

• F695 bearing stacks instead of smooth idler for higher belt tensions

• no sin error (stock also has sin error)

• M3 bolts to stop the rods instead of grub screws

• More involved installation and maintenance
  

For fiber filled materials, 8mm drill recommended! 

• BOM

* Affiliate link from SilencedFrost

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Print settings
The 3mf comes with all the necessary settings built in, no extra supports needed.
As for material choice there are a few considerations:
stiffness, temperature resistance, creep resistance, strength and finally how deaf it sounds.
The last one in particular helps cut down on the bearing rattle the printer can suffer from.

Minimum recommended: ABS/ASA
If you run a heated chamber maybe consider: PET, PA, PC, PC-PBT or similar
Note that most semi-cristalline polymers will greatly benefit from annealing both in temperature resistance and creep resistance.
For accoustic properties PA seems to be one of the best as it doesn't ring for long making it favorable, though creep is a thing to keep in mind and it absolutely needs to be annealed in order to survive

Thanks to Fiver, Jaimbo and BadPapaBear from the OC discord to help test this! (Print in the picture by BadPapaBear)

INSTRUCTIONS
Quick note on annealing: cut the threads and insert the heatsets before annealing as it can get hot enough to cause issues

Insert the M4 threaded inserts from the bottom of the backplate until they sit flush with it.

Run the screws to cut the threads inside the blocks.

Remove all the screws but the shoulder bolts.

Once done chase the X axis rod holes with a 8mm drill to make for an easy fit (there is a clamp so it doesn't need to be super tight)

https://wiki.elegoo.com/Centauri-carbon/how-to-replace-the-timing-belt-of-the-print-head

follow up to step 13
remove belt tensionners or fully loosen them.

remove those screws to loosen the bearing clamp:

Pull out the belts straight towards the back:

You can now remove the carriage and belts from the XY blocks.
Don't remove the belt further than the XY blocks to make reinstalling it easier.

Remove the side panels

Remove the 4 M3x4mm BHCS from the stock XY blocks and remove the metal plate securing the bearings

Gently slide out the bearings towards the back, to help this you can LIGHTLY press the block away, repeat on both sides

Finally twist out the X axis gantry

remove all the screws and plates from the blocks

Pull out one block and install the new one.

(instructions under construction)

ATTENTION: Once the rods are installed you cannot put the shoulder bolts in, so do it beforehand and do not tighten them.

now slide in the rods past where they are supposed to sit and repeat on the other side without moving the X rods too far this time.

Screw in the M3x20mm endstops

press the rods against the endstop all the way and repeat on the other side, it might require a little force to get the second set of endstops in place.

Loosen the shoulder bolts all the way, they should be short enough to allow for belt and pulley installation, if you want you can install the belts later on, but it's a bit tight.

the front idlers are toothed while the back idlers consist of F695 bearing stacks. The stack is to be as follows: 0.5 spacer - F695 with flange towards washer - 1 spacer - F695 with flange away from the rest - 0.5 spacer. It should resemble the picture. You might need to try out different washer sizes depending on the accuracy of your print, the central washer is essential to not damage the belt.
* credit to Jaimbo on the OC discord

Once the pulleys in place tighten the shoulder bolts as much as possible without stripping the thread, as they also clamp the X axis rods.

Finally reassemble the toolhead while making sure to have the belts be the exact same lenght, and close up the printer. you can follow the steps from the elegoo guide in reverse.

Don't forget to tension the belts (ideally manually), run input shaper calibration and happy printing!

Just a note of caution: as this is printed part under big constraints make sure to check on screw tightness ever so often.

V1.2 - Added support for CC2 and removed need for heatset inserts, for cc1 up to 6mm heatsert lenght is usable