Customizable Split Cable Gland (1-8 cables, auto-sized, no supports)

A split, threaded cable gland you can size for your own cables. Close the body around one or more cables, push it through a hole in your panel, and screw the nut down. The split body clamps the cables and the nut locks the whole thing in place.

Don't want to download OpenSCAD, or use the rough Thingiverse customizer? Try another project of mine, https://openscad.app/ . It renders customized models lightning fast, and works entirely locally in the web-browser. You can easily point it to your own OpenSCAD scripts to be shared & customized, too!

https://openscad.app/#/gh/NickLD/split-cable-gland/cable_gland.scad

Remix of Locking Threaded 4mm Cable Pass Through Grommet by zuberio (CC BY 4.0), redesigned from scratch in OpenSCAD so every dimension can be changed.

Features

• 1 to 8 cables, each with its own diameter

• Radial or inline hole layouts, spaced automatically (or set the spacing yourself)

• Your dimensions, or auto-fit: set the thread, flange and nut sizes yourself, or leave them at 0 and they are sized to fit the cables

• Arc keys run the full height of the threaded body and lock the segments together

• Prints flat with no supports. The thread uses 45 degree flanks with flats at the crest and root, so nothing overhangs more than 45 degrees

• Drill size on the nut: the panel hole is engraved on top in mm, with the nearest imperial drill

• Warnings in the preview if a setting won't work (walls too thin, keys that don't fit, nut too small to cover the hole, and so on)

Ready-made STLs

The Pre-configured STLs folder has a full print plate (split body + nut) for common setups, each sized automatically. The file name tells you the thread size and the panel drill:

cable_gland_<cables>_M<thread>_drill<hole>mm.stl

1 cable: 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 mm · 2 cables: 4, 5, 6 mm · 3 cables: 4, 5 mm · 4 cables: 4 mm

Customizing (other sizes)

https://openscad.app/#/gh/NickLD/split-cable-gland/cable_gland.scad

Open cable_gland.scad in OpenSCAD (free) and use its Customizer panel (Window › Customizer):

1. Set cable_count and each cable_N_d (the outer diameter of each cable, in mm).

2. Pick cable_layout: radial (around the centre) or inline (in a row).

3. Leave thread_d, flange_d and nut_af at 0 to auto-size, or enter your own.

4. Set thread_length to about your panel thickness + nut height + 2 mm.

5. Check the preview for red warning text, then set show_notes = false before you export. The notes are real geometry and would print otherwise.

Useful extras:

• hole_clearance: extra hole diameter over the cable (default 0.3 mm)

• hole_taper: optional taper that grips the cable tighter near the flange (off by default; it can stop the halves closing on stiff cable)

• key_clearance (0.1 mm) and nut_clearance (0.15 mm): loosen these in 0.05 mm steps if your printer fits tight

• bottom_chamfer: 0 by default so thin parts stick to the bed. Raise it to 0.2-0.4 mm if elephant's foot stops the halves closing

Printing

• PLA, PETG or ASA all work. PETG or ASA for outdoor use.

• 0.2 mm layers, 3+ walls, 15-25% infill. No supports, no brim needed.

• Print as laid out: every part sits flat on the bed.

• Turn on your slicer's elephant foot compensation (or raise bottom_chamfer) if the halves are hard to close.

Assembly

1. Drill the panel to the size engraved on the nut.

2. Put the segments around the cables and slide them together along the cables. The arc keys only go together that way.

3. Push the body through the panel from one side and screw the nut on from the other.