Piston Head for Stirling Engine - Simple Improved Printable Part
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Cardboard is too flimsy for this part, and not everyone has balsa, so use this.
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Original design says to use cardboard for the piston head in the instructions. I felt this was going to be too flimsy and tricky to glue to the end of a 1mm rod. The design photos suggest the designer actually ended up using balsa wood. I have balsa, but decided to 3D print a part instead and it works great so here it is.
No special print settings although I would add a 2-line brim spaced at 0.7mm from the model so it doesn't stick to it, just to make sure the extruder is clean - my Elegoo sometimes oozes a bit on the way to the first bit. I also suggest setting a minimum layer time of about 10 seconds if you find this small part lifts off the printbed.
Great fun model to build, but quite tricky to get just right. UK bonbon tins tend to have a bit of a ridge near the edge of the lid - check carefully that this doesn't catch on the ends of the model base. Mine did, so I had to sand a chamfer into the bottom edges of the ends of the base so it sat nice and flat on the tin lid. The displacer rod has to run smoothly up and down but with as little air leakage as possible - that's VERY challenging just using a rivet! The main axle rivet is also challenging to get running smoothly because any excess play or slight tightness will massively increase friction and spoil your chances of getting it running.
I found a mug of boiling water just wasn't quite enough heat, and resorted to a tealight under the tin as well as an ice cube in the reservoir, and then it just about chugs along at about 60rpm but it works and I was very happy to have made a working engine just out of "stuff" hahahaha :o)
The hole in the print is there to guide, enlarge it carefully to your rod diameter. The hole doesn't go all the way through so stop short when you feel resistance. I made mine a tight fit on the rod so I didn't even have to glue it, it's just a very tight friction fit. I did the same with the flat disc for the displacer crank so that I could disassemble the model for tweaking and adjust the 90 degree advance, although now it works I could glue it.