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Cycloidal Gearbox Atlantis Themed

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Alex

@Alex_5405753

An oceanic wave theme for a cycloidal gearbox.

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Aktualizacja u źródła: 29 paź 2026

Informacje o modelu

Źródło: Printables
Kategoria: Mechanical Parts
Licencja: GNU General Public License v3.0

Szczegóły Pliki (33)Wydruki i komentarze (Wydruki: 0) (Komentarze: 0)Remiksy (0)Kolekcje (1)

Cycloidal Gearbox Atlantis Themed

This is a cycloidal gearbox design that I have designed to use M3 screws, and some bearings.

The design is based on an oceanic theme, the model is colored blue-white for waves and and sand beige and barrel brown for the case. The design has an output wheel and a crank on the back.

Details

I designed this cycloidal drive as I have seem many of them online, and thought that they were really cool, I wanted to add something special to my own design, so I decided to make them like an ocean theme. Based on the wavy pattern that the disks have. I learned a lot about how they work, and one thing that I think is really cool is how they are back-drivable, this design's ability to be back-driven heavily depends on the tolerances that it's made to, so don't expect all of them to work.

Materials

This design should be able to be printed with any filament

BOM:

Item	Qty	Details
Heat Inserts	12	M3x4x5 ("Made for Voron")
M3 Button Head	13	14mm Length
M3 Button Head	8	25mm Length
M3 Nuts	8	Any should work
Bearings	4	63802-2RS (15x24x7mm)

Bearings can be found here: Amazon Link

Printing

None of the parts need support material, and are already oriented properly.

When printing the inner pin shanks, the thin tubes, it is recommended to use a brim and maybe clean your build plate to make sure that there is good bed adhesion.

For the cams and crank, you may want to increase the wall thickness if you are using a weaker filament.

Any standard infill pattern will work, none of the parts are under high stresses.

Assembly

Step 1

Begin by getting all of the parts that need to use a bearing, and press fit the bearing into them.

Due to it being a press fit, it is likely that you will need to use a somewhat soft piece of material to evenly distribute a striking force onto the bearing to seat them into the prints.

Step 2

Assemble the inner pin ring features, this step uses the 25mm M3 screws.

The nuts hold themselves in with the hex cutout on the other side.

When tightening the bolts, make sure not to over tighten them such that the print deforms or causes the pin to become maligned, in fact the shanks should be able to spin freely.

Step 3

Mount the heat set inserts into the print.

To do this, you can use a soldering iron, and if preferred a special insert tip.

Heat the iron to the recommended temperature for your filament, and press onto the insert until it starts flowing into the print.

Make sure to do this for both sides of the case.

Step 4

Grab all of the pins, and seat them into the back plate, this should be a rather tight fit.

Make sure that the pins are pressed vertically to ensure the best operation of the cycloidal drive.

Step 5

Use the Master Shaft, a spacer, and an eccentric cam.

Slide them all into the back plate as shown.

Step 6

Slide the first cylcoid disk onto the eccentric cam, then follow it with another spacer, and another eccentric cam.

Make sure that the eccentric cam is exactly 180 degrees offset from the first one.

Step 7

Add the second cycloid disk onto the shaft, and then add another space on top.

NOTE:

Make sure that the indicator dots on the cycloid disks are exactly offset from each other 180 degrees.

Step 8

Add the centered cam for the inner pin rings.

Then slide the inner pin ring assembly from Step 2.

This is not going to slide in easy, it will take some time and fiddling to line up all of the pins, you may have to undo some of the previous assembly to get this on.