Beeline Moto II Powered Mount Insert: replacement top piece (twist-lock)
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Replacement for the cracked plastic top piece of the Beeline Moto II Powered Mount Insert. Tested fit, twist-lock and ch
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The plastic top piece on my Beeline Moto II Powered Mount Insert (the charging insert with the two pogo pins) cracked through the centre screw boss. There was no model of that piece anywhere, so I measured the original and made a replacement.
This piece screws onto the powered insert module in place of the original. The Moto II twists into it and charges through the pogo pins as normal.
Tested: printed in PETG, it seats flush on the mount and holds the Moto II in the twist-lock. It also charges through the pogo pins. The only fettling needed was a small chamfer on the cable notch (see notes).
What's in it
Twist-lock clip and flex arms with locking ridges, based on BridgeNewb's Moto 2 clip
Outline, pogo pin holes and back profile measured from the original powered insert piece
Recesses on the back for the brass pogo pin casings
Cable notch at both ends, so the cable can exit either way
M4 countersunk screw hole, the same screw as the original
Not official: this is an independent replacement part. It isn't made or endorsed by Beeline. Beeline is a trademark of its owner. If your insert is under warranty, contact Beeline first.
Print settings
Setting | Value |
|---|---|
Material | PETG (or ASA on an enclosed printer, for better UV resistance) |
Orientation | As supplied: twist-lock face up |
Layer height | 0.1 mm |
Walls | 4 to 5 |
Infill | 100% |
Supports | Yes, on the back (tree supports recommended) |
Brim | Recommended (only the centre boss touches the bed) |
Nozzle | 0.4 mm |
Printing twist-lock face up gives a clean surface on the arms and their small locking ridges, which hold the Moto II. The back (mount side) sits on supports and will be rough. That's expected and doesn't affect the fit after cleanup.
Tested on a Bambu Lab P2S. Print time is about 15 minutes.
Post-processing and fitting
Remove the supports from the back. Twist the tree supports off with pliers rather than prying, so you don't lever against the flex arms.
Clear these areas fully:
the two round recesses for the brass pogo pin casings
the two cable notches at the ends
the flat face around the centre screw hole, which is the clamping face
Check the cable notch. Depending on your cable boot, you may need to widen or chamfer the notch slightly with a craft knife or rotary tool.
Dry-fit first, without the screw. It should sit flush with the top of the mount, with both pogo pins visible through the front. If it rocks, rub some marker on the mount, press the piece on, and lightly sand only where the marker transfers.
Twist the Moto II in and check it locks and charges.
Fit the original M4 countersunk screw. Tighten it snug only.
Important: stop the piece cracking (screw torque)
The original piece cracked because tightening the screw pulls the centre of the piece back into a small gap above the module, which bends it. To prevent this:
Add thin plastic washers as shims between the back of the centre boss and the module, so the screw clamps against something solid. Keep them under about 9 mm diameter so they don't touch the flex arms.
Use the thinnest stack that still lets the piece sit flush. If the piece no longer sits flush, or stops charging, the shim is too thick.
A drop of medium-strength (blue) threadlocker means you only need light torque.
Notes
Fit can vary a little between printers. Expect light sanding.
If your print comes out undersized, check the brass casing recesses first. They need to clear the 4.1 mm casings, and are modelled at 4.9 mm because printed holes usually come out slightly small.
Measured and tested on one Moto II Powered Mount Insert. Please post a make if it fits yours.
Disclaimer
Use at your own risk. This part sits in a powered, bike-mounted charger, and holds an expensive device on a moving vehicle. Check the fit and security before riding, and inspect it periodically for cracks. No warranty is given.